dvancleve

Thanks Febreze Mee, good stuff on those pages. I started looking into this years ago, and the first couple guys I came across who did LGT wagon swaps told me all they did was swap out the OB stuff for the LGT wagon stuff (including bump stops). They said the rear height/level was good and no significant issues with alignment. Many since then have claimed Legacy upper control arms and the camber correction kit are required, some have said even the bushing kit won't allow stock alignment.

I just ordered a clean looking set of JDM SpecB revA (allegedly the stiffest version) and my current plan is to run those with Legacy bump stops and saggy butt spacers. I am not sure what thickness will be best for the spacers, may need to put it all together then measure (rather than just guessing). My understanding is the shocks/struts are all the same, the wagon springs are just a bit longer (but the same rate). Anybody know for sure what the best spacer thickness is to get a fairly level stance?

Thanks, Doug

P.S. Am I going bananas, or is everything here in German now?

Howdy folks. These lowering threads are a lot to plow through… Anybody know if they are pics of any 05-09 Outbacks on JDM SpecB Bilstein take-offs in here (struts/shocks/springs), probably with saggy butt spacers in back? That’s my plan, plus whatever it takes to get a decent rear alignment…

Thanks, Doug

I also have a complete LGT wagon spring/strut set that are slated to go with Konis on my OBXT, but I may be going with a JDM takeoff Bilstein set instead. Feel free to give me a holler if you aren’t set yet…

Doug

These are from a LGT wagon, yes.

 

Installing these on an outback does give a lower than US spec in the rear due to the different geometry in the rear of an outback vs a legacy wagon. That's why I installed saggy butt spacers. You have the option to take the spacers out and be lower, if you wanted.

If you are running stock rims and stock tires it will clear fine.

I am a Master Diagnostic Tech at Toyota and did the alignment myself. I can say with 100000% confidence there is enough room in the adjusters to pull everything into spec.

Unknown mileage (I bought them used) but I can guarantee they aren't leaking and other than the surface rust on the bottom they are in amazing condition. the top hat's rubber is still soft and shows no signs of cracking.

 

I don't have a shipping quote ready with me at the moment but I can PM you when I get one if you like.

Thanks, and my question wasn't as clear as it should have been... Are these the same height as US spec LGT wagon takeoffs, or are they lower? Do you know if the springs are different, or same springs just mounted on Bilsteins instead of KYBs or whatever? Were the spacers needed to level out your car, or did you just want a bit more height in back? Thanks!

Hi there.

I'll apologize in advance, all my questions might be common knowledge but I haven't done anything with my OBXT (other than drive it) for years...

So these are JDM LGT wagon? I assume they are lower than US spec LGT wagon take-offs? Will stock OBXT tires clear running these? Were you able to get a decent alignment? Have you looked into shipping cost (85248 for me)? Do you know how many miles are on them?

Thanks, Doug

:nono:Well it only took seven years, but I finally disabled my headlights for the DRL (brown wire only). I tried when I first got the car in early 2013, I did not remove the wiring harness so I could not remove the panel and I could not get the wire out. I didn’t want to cut it then, so I buttoned everything back up and went about my business. One of my low beams finally burned out last week, and it seems like not having the headlights on for the DRLs was a good idea with the higher output bulbs I got.

I looked through the thread again, watched a YouTube video, dove back in this afternoon. I removed that OBD port connector so I could get the panel out of my way. I found that little lock bar and pried it out, which I don’t think I knew about or did the first time. I could not get the wire to release from the connector for the life of me. I fought with it for like an hour before I just snipped it and busted out the electrical tape

I generally consider myself pretty handy and pretty good at following directions but that wire was not coming out of the connector for me. So thanks to everyone who contributed, especially with pictures. For those who have yet to do this, don’t feel bad if you can’t get the wire to come out of the connector

Funny, nearly 5 years later I am still on that same crazy stiff clutch (pedal). It doesn't slip at all and I am used to it, it really only bugs me the few times I get stuck in bad traffic. I also had some body work done a couple years ago, so didn't drive it for a week or two. When I picked it up, yowza it seemed stiff Still of the opinion that replacing it when it works fine is silly...

Doug

I just purchased my first subaru - 09' OBXT 5mt with 64k.

 

I found this thread because I was searching why my pedal was so Damn stiff. After 7 different manual vehicles in my driving career, this is by far the stiffest I've ever experienced. If I don't get used to it in a month, I'll be looking at different clutch options or various modifications because as my daily driver... It's pretty challenging.

 

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this car. This is my only nit pick over it.

 

Any new light shed on this stiff pedal that I missed while searching?

 

Cheers,

 

Rick.

I have -2, it's livable. Not ideal though.

 

@Dvancleve, From the factory their is no camber adjust in the rear. And you are right, it's not that hard and there is a parts list. It's still more money than just throwing on springs+shocks and calling it a day though, and that's where the confusion is.

 

You have a couple options - remove subframe spacers, KCA399 and live with it, Adjustable arms (KTA124).

 

I am currently doing KCA399 and live with it, with plans to install KTA124 at some point. You should add a strut spacer of around 3/4 of an inch to your planned suspension. Not sure why, but to get our Outbacks to visually sit level we need a decent spacer. That spacer will also help with your alignment (higher you are less camber you have)

Thanks

Can you please elaborate on removing subframe spacers? Is it a big project, like removing all of the spaces that make an Outback different ? I don't think I've seen it come up before in regard to rear camber. Also, on the saggy butt spacers, how hard are they to put in? My inclination is to try swapping everything without them, several people have told me that's fine with LGT wagon rear springs. If nothing else, it becomes easy to measure how much extra height you'd like and order the appropriate spacers/bolts.

Regards, Doug

If anyone can chime in on this kit I'm interested to find out as well. Recently lowered my Outback and I've got -2.2 camber on both rears.

So what did you do to your car to get where it is now? My initial plan was LGT wagon take-offs and bump stops w/ Konis. Then I read a lot of opinions that you really need to have Legacy upper control alarms for travel. Then quite a few couldn't seem to get reasonable rear camber. It doesn't seem to me like it should be that hard, there should be a parts list that gets everything where it needs to be...

Thanks, Doug

P.S. Is -2.2* negative camber liveable or does it destroy the tires?

Howdy folks.

I have only come across one reference to anybody here using these, but they seem like a better bet for a lowered OBXT than Legacy arms with the Whiteline camber bushings. I have read that creaking is common with those bushings and sometimes they aren't enough to get reasonable rear camber. These Megan arms would seem to avoid both issues, and they aren't that much more than the bushings and Legacy arms. It is really hard to tell if they play nicely with the bumpstops from the only pics I have found, anybody know? Thoughts on these, preferably based on real world experience?

Thanks, Doug

Thanks. So are you putting in the Whiteline camber bushings? I emailed them asking what the proper tool is to adjust those (clearly those holes are there for a reason), no response so far though...

Doug

They were able to get my rear toe to zero although my camber is still slightly out (dont recall the number but it is not bad). I still have to install the camber bolts those so that should take care of it. Otherwise, I just have a straight LGT shock/strut and rear UCA swap. Could use about a 1/2" saggy butt spacer and the LGT bumpstops (when I swap my summer tires back on)

I will probably give it a week or so then try cutting them like this:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/dvancleve/IMG_4832_1.jpg

If that doesn't do it for me, I may try 6 gauge wire like that. I think some of noise folks don't like is due to exhaust hitting the bottom of the car, so I am hoping to avoid that.

Doug

I just made these, 8 gauge copper wire from Lowe's ($1.28 for 2 feet):

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/dvancleve/IMG_4832.jpg

My goals were to better support the flanges and not have exhaust going up against the bottom of the car. My idea worked, as far as I can tell no exhaust gas goes on anything:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/dvancleve/IMG_4831.jpg

That is the good, the bad is that I really don't hear any difference at all. My two thoughts are to cut off that bottom portion so only the top/inside and around the bolts seals, but that will be directing exhaust gas onto the mufflers at a minimum. The other idea is to do the same thing except with six gage wire to create a bigger space. Any thoughts?

Doug

I have a few question for the early adapters who used LGT wagon stuff with stock OB wheels & tires. I have been planning on Konis in LGT wagon take-offs for years. I have them (not assembled yet) and new Legacy bump stops. Do I really need anything else? It seems to me like the first few folks who did this reported everything was fine, but more recently folks are saying the Legacy upper arms are almost necessary along with camber bushings. I don't want to buy anything I don't need, but I also don't want to get it together and find out it is still on the bump stops too much or won't align decently.

Thanks, Doug

It is on the late side for this, but the dealer who did my '07 airbag recall replacement last fall fixed my light as well. I didn't even mention it going in, so some others may luck out as well.

Doug

then i found some jdm bilsteins, they fit but i have this sag in the rear like the suspension is lower in the back than the front. i assume this set also came from a sedan.

 

can someone please shed some light on this for me? the search is exasperating:spin:

If everything about the Bilsteins is good except the rear sag, "saggy butt" spacers are the way to go. They just sandwich between the top of the rear shock and the body. Otherwise, you want 2005-2009 LGT wagon springs and struts/shocks.

HTH, Doug

Based on having just re-read this whole thread, I would try putting your original OB springs on the rear Legacy struts, if you still have them. I think it is pretty well established that LGT sedan rear springs are suboptimal for an OB swap, and it doesn't sound like any reasonable spacer thickness wil level things out for you...

What I find interesting is that the guy who started this thread did a straight swap with LGT wagon takeoffs and didn't do anything else, other than get a good alignment done. He didn't seem to have any issues with the rear height, yet a lot of the discussion seems to be about adding spacers in back. When I first got my OBXT a few years ago, I exchanged PMs with at least two guys who did LGT wagon swaps, both of them said there were no issues with rear height. I am planning on putting in Koni converted LGT wagon springs/front housings with LGT bump stops/helpers and my expectation is that the rear height will be fine...

Doug

That makes sense with the bump stop. I thought that the suspension didn't normally come into contact with them. Thought they were more there as a safety. As for the saggy butt. I'm running 3/8" spacers in the rear and I still have an inch of difference between the front and rear wheel gaps. Do you know what your measurements are?

So what is a schmoe with a new set of the Konis to do? Ideally they would be shock dyno'ed before mounting and adjusted to be as well matched side to side as possible, but that seems very unlikely for most folks. I am assuming shock dynos are not common...

Thanks, Doug

Want to keep it subtle, so only one washer per bolt instead of two, and only on one side. Just wondering if there's any difference between doing the passenger or driver side. Hoping to eventually move to the Legacy STI quad tip mufflers, but this will have to do for the time being.

From outside the car, should be pretty much the same. From inside, the passenger muffler is further from the driver, so should be a bit quieter. I am planning to start with single washers on both sides of both mufflers, then passenger side only if too loud/drone(y) etc...

Doug

Howdy folks.

I bought my OBXT early last year knowing it had this issue. What I don't know, is how are the lights on the dash and console supposed to work?

Thanks, Doug

I think I have read this whole thread and I don't remember this being addressed... If I cut right at the edge of the silver cap, will the Koni inserts pull in properly? That seems like an easy way to get a straight cut with a hacksaw if it doesn't leave them too long, and if I can avoid buying a pipe cutter why not?

Thanks, Doug

Probably a dumb question, but what happens on the AVCS side if the banjo filter is removed and something gets through? Based on pics I've seen, this side is usually pretty clean compared to the turbo side and it is a lot more work to service. Seems to me that it makes sense to either remove all banjo filters and add this kit for the turbo or at least remove the AVCS side and clean/replace the turbo side...

Thanks, Doug

I am in the same boat. With the OBXT being the only car with a clutch that I am driving now, it doesn't seem that odd. It seemed super stiff when I was still driving my old '97 OB, but doesn't really bother me now. Until it starts slipping or the engine needs to come out for something else, I am going to leave it alone...

Doug

BTW, my current 07 XT clutch is stiff, and the reason I responded to this thread is I might be in the same boat OP is in. But until clutch doesn't disengage, slips, or throwout bearing gives out, I'll just keep building up my left leg muscles by driving it to and from my cube each day. As long as I drive aggressively, it seems to be "in character" and works fine. Bottom line is I can't rationalize replacing it until it gets worse. I had the dealer Service Tech inspect it & drive it, and he claims it is a 70K clutch, as appropriate, stiffer than some, but not out of line with others, has considerable life left, and not causing any other damage except perhaps to my knee and lower back). Besides, who needs a clutch except at initial launch from rest.