monkeyposeur

I have seen them in person so they do exist. The problem is first gens are become increasingly rare so good luck finding a stock roof rack to install. There are plenty of options for you though. I don't know where you live but in SLC where I live there are rack install shops that can fit racks to any car.

Also Yakima, Thule, etc. make universal roof racks. For example: https://www.rackwarehouse.com/yakima-subaru-loyale-wagon-skyline-jetstream-rack.html

Don't bother with a slanty intercooler. Just use a 2006 Forester XT intercooler.

Get on https://bbs.legacycentral.org/

I'm right behind you on the hose leaking. Last noticed a split at the first union on the drivers side. Hose feels like old gum. Need to replace all of it now I assume. as heat cycles have taken it's toll.

It was a bit tricky to replace. What I did was duct tape the new line to the old one so I could pull it through the spot where it dips down into the fender near the windshield cowl. Then you just push the fender liner out of the way a little bit to access the union.

Huh. So you could not tell the bite was better or something? If that's the case, then that discourages me from doing the swap. I might as well keep the OBXT rotor size and put more agressive pads.

That is why I didn't bother doing the swap. I just bled the system and threw some Stop Tech pads on there. The braking feels just as good as my bugeye with similar pads and SS brake lines. If I was tracking the XT then it would be a different story.

My windshield nozzles quit working completely. They sucked since I got the car, and the only one that kinda worked was the driver's side. I bought the hose assembly and was told it had the nozzles in it as well, it doesn't. Anyway, the main line coming off the tank was split so I replaced the line with the new one. Now I get some spray out of the driver's side, but it still sucks. I'm gonna get the nozzles from the dealership and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, then I'll replace the motor, and if it doesn't work after that then I'm out of ideas, lol.

^Thanks!

I didn't check the oil the last two fill ups. It was over 2 quarts low!!!

It didn't seem to be consuming that much oil when I first got it, but i have been boosting it a lot, lol.

I'll keep a better eye on it. I'm still planning on compression/leakdown testing it after finals. I found the OB XT Stage 1 map tables on Romraider so I'll throw that on the ecu as well. Interested to see how it feels after that.

New MAF smoothed the beast out quite a bit. Much better fuel delivery and mileage looks better even.

 

Breaks before Catback though, still thinking Namless with 5" cans.

Where did you get your MAF? Part number? When I replaced my MAF on my bugeye I just found the OEM equivalent Denso MAF on Amazon for a lot less than the dealership.

I'm also thinking getting the Nameless is the way to go. Wish I could hear one in person. My bugeye is pretty loud and I don't want the XT to be as obnoxious, haha.

Brake pads are starting to show signs of replacement. Getting the ol squeeky squeeks. Now time to hunt for some new. Not sure if that means I'll need rotors.

Anything newer to the market that someone might recommend for pads? Just a daily

Not new, but I like the Stop Tech Streets or Street Selects. The Street Selects are pretty much the same as the Streets but quite a bit cheaper. I just tried a set on the XT, and I have the Streets on my bugeye. Can't really tell a difference between the two.

Nice dude! Been a long time!

I'm selling my 93 SS. If anyone is interested PM me. I haven't listed it locally yet, just on bbslegacycentral in the hopes that I find a good home for it.

Never thought I would sell it but I have the 360 whp Bugeye, and two outback XTs. I'm turning one of the XTs into a lifted desert battle wagon and the other XT I bought to give to my wife. My XT is has the 5MT and it's super fun. I'm going to get it to about 300, maybe 350 whp and call it good, lol.

The SS has been her daily for like 8 years or something and it's been great and she loves it, but it takes a lot of maintenance to keep it going and I want her to have a nice reliable car that she feels safe in.

I think you can get about 350 hp out of the stock SB before you should worry too much about the internals. I was talking to Turn In Concepts recently and that's what they think. But realistically, I wouldn't want to push more than 300 out of the stock SB. But the IAG stage 1 is only about $1k more than the OEM, so not terribly more expensive.

I was thinking about just rebuilding the stock SB in the car with forged pistons. I built my 22T/205 hybrid in my basement and it was pretty easy to do, although a bit stressful wondering if I did it right.

Before I make any final decisions I will do a leak down and compression test on my existing block. If it checks out I might just run it until it blows up.

I have a lot of time to decide since I am not planning on pulling the engine until May at the earliest. Gotta finish this MS CS first, lol. And I haven't even installed my KYBs and Ralliteks yet.

Ok added the top mounts and removed the WRX bushings. Dropped the shelf stock.

20320AG00A - Strut mount front.

Have some whiteline endlinks if the Moogs are found used up during install.

Keep me posted about the whiteline endlinks! I'm thinking about getting some eventually.

I'm still deciding whether to go with a new shortblock or toss in an IAG. I don't think I'll go bigger than an 18g, so I probably could get away with a stock SB.

Anyone use the whiteline endlinks? I'm just looking around at what's available, and you can get front and rear whiteline sways in a package that includes endlinks for about the same price if you buy the front and rear sways separately. I know that sometimes the whiteline ball joints are problematic. I've used a whiteline rear sway on my old 95 legacy and it was pretty sweet so I know their sways are good, but I just don't know about the endlinks.

Found a VF52 for only $350 w/40k locally, but I waited too long and it sold haha. I was waiting for the ad to be up for a while so I could talk him down more.

I had a potential disaster last weekend changing my brake pads and rotors. The day before that I had my XT up on four jackstands and installed a new driveshaft. I'm at a new house and parked the XT in the new to me driveway. The asphalt is pretty soft and I noticed one of the jackstands sank into it a bit. I jumped up and down on the back bumper and everything seemed solid so I got under the car and did the job no problem.

The next day I decided to do the pads and rotors and put the car on stands again, but in a different part of the driveway. I had all but one tire off (front passenger) as I changed the front rotors and pads and bled all the brakes. As I was bleeding the rear calipers I noticed one of the jack stands sunk way in the asphalt and was tipping so I hurried up and slid one of the wheels under the car in front of the rear wheel well. I ran to the front of the car and put another wheel on finger tight. Next I grabbed the jack and was rolling it around the car so I could jack the car up and stabilize it. As I was doing that, the rear jack stands tipped over all the way and the car fell off the stands!!!!!

Fortunately the wheel I slid under the car kept if off the ground and kept everything from getting destroyed. I was able to jack the car up and get it back on stands, this time with pieces of plywood under the jack stands so it didn't sink in. After that I wasn't in the mood to do the rear pads, lol. I'll do them this weekend though.

Thank god I wasn't under the car or sitting under one of the wheel wells when it fell off. I always try and be safe when jacking up a car but this shows that even with being careful a disaster can happen.

When I removed the front driver's side caliper the bolts were super rusted on and the bottom bolt stripped when I removed it. So yesterday I replaced the caliper bracket and bolts and everything is all good again. It was making a horrible clunking noise when I went over bumps since the caliper wasn't completely tight because of the stripped bolt.

Just an FYI, I'm using stock injectors and fuel pressures, on Evo 3 16g (slightly bigger then VF52). Duty cycles still stay at 90% for the most part, but can get over 100% when it gets really cold.

Ok, cool. Seems like plenty of people get good power out of the stock side feeds. I have ID1000s in my bugeye and am about 62% duty at WOT with a Blouch 20G-XT.

I'm not too crazy about approaching 100% duty, but when my bugeye was stage 2+ running a little TD04 I was approaching 95% with no ill effects.

I've been looking into top feed conversions, but I don't want to go too crazy with the XT build and get stuff I really don't need.

Rhitter, are you using your stock injectors? I was looking at your build thread and I didn't see any aftermarket injectors listed.

I'll probably upgrade to a VF52 or similar size turbo one of these days. Gotta get my Rallitek lift kit installed first, then wheels, then start power mods.

Thanks! Yeah, I need to polish the headlights on both of the wagons.

The driveshaft was about $670. That was part of my wheel budget!!! I could have waited a week or so and saved some money ordering it online but I wanted it fixed since it's my daily right now.

But at least it's fixed now and I had money set aside for parts.

FWIW, the KYB Rear shock mounts worked fine with the GR2s, it was the front strut mounts that gave me too much trouble.

Cool, I'll stick with the KYB rears and spring for the OEM fronts.

I didn't want to wait until next week for a driveshaft to arrive so I picked up one at the dealership. Installed it in about an hour. Wasn't too bad of a job. I didn't drop the exhaust so that made it annoying to get the old driveshaft out, and made it a bitch to get the new one in. Scratched it up pretty good too, haha.

I thought it was the carrier bearing that was bad but the carrier bearing was still good. The rear u-joint was seized up.

Everything works great again, no vibrating under load.

Maybe I'll be able to bleed the brakes tomorrow., possibly install the new pads and rotors. Picked up a new Motive brake bleeder since my old one was lost in a garage fire at my buddy's house.

Two of my four subarus, lol:

Have you considered going with a one piece replacement instead of OEM?

 

I’m not sure what transmission you have but this is the price range. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-driveshafts/subaru/2005-subaru-legacy-2-5-gt-1-piece-aluminum-driveshaft-5-speed-automatic-only

 

They also have carbon fiber for about twice the price.

Yeah, I thought about it, but I want to get it fixed ASAP.

I had really bad luck with 2 sets of KYB strut mounts on my GR2s, one listed for 05 recommended by rallitek and another listed for 07 by NAPA (matched to my VIN), both would clunk badly after being installed correctly. I ended up going with dealer parts for $$$ but they worked perfectly upon installation. Just my $.02

Hmm, I'll have to look into that. I've used KYBs on my rear struts on my Bugeye with no problems. Hopefully I don't run into any issues.

EDIT: Can anyone confirm if Group N strut mounts will fit on the XT?

Hmm, looks like they won't fit.

Experienced some heavy vibrations under load starting a few days ago. The whole wagon shakes like crazy. I thought it might be a motor mount, pitch stop, internal engine issue...

So I got a new jack today (got sick of my dinky one I've been using for years) and jacked up the wagon and set it on jack stands and rolled under there to take a look.

Looks like the carrier bearing housing is shot to hell. At least it's an easy fix.

Tyring to decide between a new OEM propeller shaft assembly for $531 or go with the Dorman. The Dorman has Zerk fittings and is $392 on Amazon. Probably gonna go with the Dorman. It has a limited warranty.

And I have a huge pile of new parts to go on the XT when I get some time. Rallitek 1.4" rear springs w/spacers, Rallitek 1" front springs, KYB GR2s, KYB strut mounts, new brake rotors, and Stop Tech Street pads. And the new DD HU and JDM HVAC controls, lol.

The brakes on the XT suck right now. Fluid is brown and gross, pedal feel is atrocious, front rotors are all grooved. Thought about switching to LGT calipers or 4 pots, but I'll see how I like the stock brakes with good pads and new brake fluid first.

EDIT: Decided against the Doorman and bought a new OEM assembly. Should be here March 1st.

About time I tested the jdm grille. Badge slightly smaller than the other oem grille. the color on the JDM grille is actually really nice but it's hard to see it on the picture.

 

next i'll test those extensions which go at the bottom of the bumper to give it a sporty look like WRX USA. but one thing at a time

That looks pretty nice! Is that a direct swap on USDM XTs?

I have a JDM grill on my bugeye and I love it.

Using Krylon Dual Superbond Black Flat. Going to try covering it with a Krylon ColorMaster Clear Satin. I'm crossing my fingers the two will work together. May do a test on the clear in a few more hours. My office smells like a paint booth. I'm not heating the entire house this year. Just a couple rooms at a time as needed.

 

After the first can of clear started spitting had to return it.

Second can is covering better but not great.

Will warm this one up a little more and see if it shoots better.

Going to wet sand to 1500, ace was out of 2000+.

Then more clear coats.

Haha, this is why I will just live with the two tone panel for now!

I think I want to raise my car up a little. In the back that's throwing the same king springs back on (KSRS-29) and then playing any spacer game I feel like.

 

Unsure what to do about the front though. I have a 3/4 inch spacer. But, it's not threaded and removing it was super painful. But, I have it.

I was looking to King springs. I was warned on reddit that the King Springs collapse over time and end up at the stock spring height. Is there any truth to this?

The OBXT looks great!

 

As far as recommendations:

 

Turbo: VF52. It's the best daily turbo out there. Great spool characteristics, capable of more than enough power for a daily, they're very common, bolt right on, and they're pretty reliable.

 

Headlights: Buy the brackets from Custom Brackets and Designs to swap a Mini H1 projector into the stock USDM headlights. Or, for less money and better output, you can buy JDM pre-facelift headlights, open the projectors, flip the shields, and have the superior D2S setup. No need to change the actual projector.

 

Along with your catless up pipe as a reliability mod, you should remove the filters from the oil banjo bolts to prevent the VF40 from blowing up and taking your motor with it before you get a chance to change it.

Thanks Somac!

OK, sounds like the VF52 is a good way to go. I have a 20G in my bugeye and it is awesome but since the wagon is more of a cruiser camping vehicle I don't think I'd go bigger than an 18g.

Thanks for the tip on the pre-facelift lights. What year would that be exactly?

And yeah, I plan on removing the banjo bolt filters as soon as I get a chance. I'm busy with work and finishing up another degree so I am busy! But would suck to block the turbo and engine. I wonder if they have been removed already, but I don't think there is any way to tell unless I get in there, right?