urdrwho

Good idea and I have an appointment at the dealer today so I'll ask them about it.

QUOTE=Rowlette;5826847]Check with your dealership about any programming updates which could be applied.

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

Parking brake is electric and at some point you'll need to disengage that electric brake.

Which places you back in the same place, applying the left foot to the brake so the car can be maneuvered out of a parking space while on a hill.

Hit the parking brake.

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

Hm? You following me?

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/138-gen-5-2015-2019/497843-my-transmission-correctly-working.html#post5686401

You've complained so frequently about your Outback that it's hard to tell whether there's actually a problem here or not. Regardless, the CVT warranty on all MY 2015 Legacys and Outbacks has been extended by Subaru to 10 years/100,000 miles, so you should be well covered.

I never owned a car with a CVT so I don't know what the signs are of a good or bad CVT. This question applies to our recently purchased, off-lease, 2015 Outback Limited with 36,000 miles on it.

Here are some examples of why I am asking:

Taking off from a dead stop; sometimes the car will kind of lurch forward (as though a turbo was engaged); sometimes it doesn't seem to be taking off at all (engine revs seem to be going higher without the normal expected forward movement).

Sometimes when the car goes from a dead stop it has a rolling effect, like it is catching but not but maybe but not. I can't say it is bucking and it is hard to define.

My driveway is on a small grade (maybe 20%) and with my cars that had regular transmission, the trans would hold on the driveway. This car the trans will slide backward and I have to hold my left foot on the brake, right foot on gas so that I don't slide into the car parked behind me.

I have no point reference and maybe this is just the way of a CVT?

I think it is written as SOP to have a charger on the battery when doing an update.

Wanted to tell my story so that this doesn't happen to anybody else.

 

I updated my lady's 2015 Legacy with Nav to NU9020 yesterday, and had a scare.

 

Everything is fine now (The MPG in cluster is at 0, but I think a redo will fix it).

 

The first USB update failed, so i started over. The second time worked. Then I started the second USB update. It worked the first time, I checked the DB number. I thought I was done for a second but then I remembered to complete the update I needed to do the memory initialization, so I went to do that. I didn't read the instruction that mentions "Hold the Ok button for 5 seconds." So i clicked it once, and nothing happened. I clicked it again and it started the initialization then the screen shut off. "That's odd." I waited about 10 minutes in the 105 degree Cali heat. Then the lit buttons next to the screen shut off. Then 10 minutes later the dash lights went off. Strange... "Did the battey die?" I pressed the overhead light above me on to check. The light seemed very bright so I dismissed that Idea. I thought "Maybe because I didn't hold it for 5 seconds something went wrong?". So I waited another 10 minutess.. Finally I decided to shut the ACC off. When I turned ACC back on, everything came back on VERY slowly. The head unit kept turning on and off. Car wouldn't even try to start. I thought I bricked it. I spent 30 minutes trying to use the first USB to restore everything. I turned the ACC off and on with the USB drive in it flashing thinking maybe it would autodetect failure and restore itself from USB (As a Computer Science major, That seems like a good disaster recovery procedure.) 30 minutes later nothing. So I finally popped the hood and checked the battery and it was at 9.5 volts. *STUPID*

 

Please, for the love of god don't end up like me.

USE A CHARGER

 

I understand I am very VERY lucky that the battery died a few minutes after the updates, and not during.

 

I wasn't playing music, I didn't have lights on, no fans spinning, NOTHING. I thought for sure the battery wouldn't die. Especially with previous cars I've owned, I've often left interior lights on all night and the cars still started fine. Something about this car sucks battery fast, or my girl's battery is on it's way out. Who knows but please learn from my f***-up.

 

After jump starting, everything was updated and is working fine.

 

Thanks again to JDog!

Hunting down a slight idle stumble with the AC on and decided to get the MAF spray out and give the MAF a cleaning.

Much, much easier than doing it on a 1990's Subbie. On the 90's subbie ya had to pull the air box, with air box removed you remove from MAF. With this car you stand above the engine, remove two screws, pull out MAF and clean. I could do it it a white shirt and not get a spot on it.

Did it clear the slight stumble? Maybe but not 100% sure but will know after driving for a day or two.

Yes, it is a closed system and is not meant to evaporate or leak.

If you smell coolant and you are losing coolant, there must be a leak. How else would it be getting out? I may be wrong but I think a properly designed cooling system is not supposed to vent coolant except in the case of extreme over-heating.