SVXdc

That last character is a 'one' not 'i'. Compare to the preset "1" button, and the "i" in "ENTER SETTING" (label above preset 5 button) and on the LIST button. As DrD123 posted, the procedure shown in Subaru's service manual doesn't work. We need to find out the proper procedure for these HUs.

I was confused -- the service manuals show the 'dealer menu' procedure in the section "Rearview Camera System", and a similar procedure in the "Audio System" section. I edited my first post to clarify. Please try to dig that up. I'm wondering if the HUs are smart enough to hide those menus when pin 8 isn't grounded, or if that means the 2012 PE627U1 truly does not have the camera feature. Correct -- confirmed from pictures of the factory harnesses that other 2012 owners have sent me. Yes. Keep in mind that the HU may also be checking for the video signal, as I mentioned in my first post. I still need a 2013 or 2014 owner to check that. [ADDED: nstg8r confirmed that his 2012's PE627U1 started showing a blank screen by just grounding pin 8 (when shifted in reverse). So HU is not detecting camera video signal.].

This question is bound to come up: How can I view the camera image while I'm not in reverse? Two ways: A) Go into the HU's dealer service menu, and pull up the camera screen. B) Cut (or, preferably, extract) the factory reverse gear wire from the HU's 28-pin harness. Add a switch so you can select between: Normal operation (car's reverse gear signal connected as it was originally), and Forced 'on' (send +12V into the HU's input). Be sure to do that without sending +12V to the rest of the car's reverse gear circuit (otherwise you'll be lighting your back-up lights, and other bad things might happen with your transmission and traction control). Use a SPDT switch (3 terminals, with two 'on' positions). Wire the common pin to the HU's reverse signal input (pin #2 on the 28-pin socket). Wire one of the 'on' terminals to the car's reverse signal wire. Wire the other 'on' terminal to +12V Accessory power.

[uPDATED] All of the Legacy/Outback OEM Panasonic head units with 4.3" display -- USDM 2012 PE627U1, 2013 PE658U1, and 2014 PE669U1 -- are confirmed to have the rear camera feature, as well as the 2013 EDM PE438L1. [ADDED 7/15/2014: Thank you, jpotts, for confirming PE627U1 does have the camera function also!] [ADDED 8/22/2015: Other similar models with 4.3" screen: PE227K1 (AUDM), PE427L1, PE527S1, PE538S1, PE638S1. Need to confirm, but all of these probably have the camera function too.] BTW, the last character on each of those is the digit 'one', not letter 'i'.

The plug for the monitor screen's 16-pin socket uses 070 terminals too, but I'm fairly sure they are different than the 070 terminals for the radio's 14-pin plug. At least, Tyco shows different part numbers for the terminals. I haven't looked closely at Tyco's drawings to compare them. The reverse signal is +12V when in reverse. AkumaMax was just saying to ground that pin until you connect it to the car's actual reverse signal. I'll bet you could just leave that pin vacant for now -- the DVD unit and monitor likely both have their own pull-down circuitry.

This started out as a reply to That Guy 2-1's e-mail to me, but I realized much of this information would be better posted in this thread for others to see...

Should not cause any problems. You might want to look into moving clock to where you ashtray is. Search for 'clock relocation kit'. Yes. You'll want to run the SWC wires directly to a steering wheel interface module (needed by most aftermarket HUs), or straight to the new HU (if it's one of the few that supports direct connection without requiring a module).

This should help -- pics of the inside (rotating part of the clockspring) on a 2005 LGT wheel. These two pictures are particularly good: #4 "wheel puller.jpg" (shows the white 3-pin cruise and green 5-pin horn harness plugs) #6 "roll connector.jpg" (closer shot, with 3-pin harness unplugged)Also see pictures of the green plug inside an LL Bean wheel cschneider posted here. So this is apparently how harness B68 maps to the harnesses inside the wheel: AkumaMax, I recommend you start a new thread for your 2008 wheel transplant mod (to keep trabbic's thread about simply swapping in the older-style audio SWC buttons).

Which side of the clockspring -- stationary (at the steering column) or rotating (inside the wheel cover, behind the airbag)? Did you see this earlier post?

The WRXAtlanta folks have bi-weekly dinner meets. All Subarus are welcome (not just Imprezas). Let's have some more Legacys and Outbacks show up! The next two are Tuesday, 9/4 and 9/18 at Manhattan New York Pizza (on Indian Trail, between Norcross and Lilburn, 1/2 mile south of I-85). Link: 2012 BiWeekly Dinner Meets thread! Check them out! Meets now start at 7:00pm!

The P-206UHB (Subaru P/N 86201AG73A, Panasonic model CQ-EF1861X) is an odd duck. It has an amplifier IC so it can drive speakers (as you confirmed). But the output impedance is 10K ohms (K = 1000, meaning 10,000 ohms) -- what you typically would see on line-level (unamplified) outputs. Supposedly, there are some 2009 Legacy or Outback models that have that HU without the harman/kardon amp. But I haven't seen anyone whose car came from the factory that way. According to cars101.com, every US 2009 model except the low-end fleet version has the h/k amp. Starting in 2010, the h/k HUs do send line-level (pre amp) signals -- no speaker amp IC inside the HU. [uPDATE: Apparently, the HUs in all cars with the h/k system still have internal 4-channel amp ICs.] Don't be surprised that you didn't see RCA jacks. Almost no OEM gear has them. See this thread for info on the h/k amp. You can connect the P-206UHB to an aftermarket amp. Since it is outputting speaker-level signals, you'll need an amp that can accept high-level signals as input (or else you'll need to add a Line Output Converter -- LOC -- to reduce the signals to line-level). The fact that this HU's outputs are high impedance shouldn't affect things significantly. I can provide harnesses that make it easier for you to tap the HU's speaker outputs without having to hack into your factory wires. E-mail me for details (see my homepage at ae64.com). The P-206UHB does not have a lead for amp remote turn-on. You'll either need to use +12V Accessory, or get a LOC or amp that can power up when it detects sound on one of its inputs.

All car A/C systems will have either a receiver/dryer or an accumulator. It removes moisture from the refrigerant line. First link I found via Google (not Subaru-specific). A general rule is that any time you open the system, you need to replace this.

Yes, you can definitely install that sub in another make/model/year -- any HU that has speaker-level outputs. The sub does have it's own built-in amp. See more info here. Around 2009 Subaru started offering several other variations (still self-powered, but some that use a balanced line-level input).

Thanksgiving, Christmas, work, etc. And still looking for a 2006 non-turbo Legacy or Outback

The wire colors that Soda Popinski describes are not the factory radio harness. They do not correspond to the factory colors on any Subaru model that I've seen. They also do not match the colors on any OEM subwoofer T-harness that I've seen. Several other North American 2008 owners have confirmed the colors listed in my pin-out table. I originally compiled that information from Subaru's wiring diagrams. Search for "vacation pix" on the LGT forums to see for yourself. His car must have been modified by a previous owner. Likely, an aftermarket harness was inserted between the factory radio harness and the radio (perhaps for a car phone kit) -- you should be able to follow that back into the dash to locate the factory radio plug. Or the factory harness was cut and replaced/repaired with an aftermarket piece (in that case, you should be able to follow the wires back and find splices). Now as I mention on my pin-out guide, in many models/years, the wire colors do change between the factory radio harness and the speakers. Regardless of the factory colors, the 14-pin harness should always have the same pin function assignments (for example, pin #2 is always Right Front Speaker +). Plug and play with what? The 14-pin power/speaker harness in 2008s has the same pin-out as in 1995-2007 models. If you're looking at swapping in another OEM radio, you can use any 2005-2008 radio that has exactly the same kind of A/C controls as your original radio (manual or automatic, single- or dual-zone).

I hadn't heard of them until someone mentioned them to me this past week. Here's their web site: http://www.allprosubaru.com/ Their address is: 1040 Nine North Dr Alpharetta, GA 30004 Their map link (on yellowpages.com). Google maps currently has trouble finding that (it wants to show you "9 North Ct" ). Nine North Dr is off GA 9 (Atlanta Hwy), opposite a Walmart Super Center (which is newer than the aerial photos on yp.com). Here's a link near the intersection on Google maps. It's 4.7 miles north of Fry's Electronics. They're actually in Forsyth County, east of Milton.

See this: Any inexpensive way around xm/sat radio?

The dashed lines indicate that the conductor is a braided shield. That one is used for the audio ground, and surrounds the left and right audio wires. Wiring the aux pod's pin 2 to the HU's pin 5 is correct. What exactly to you mean when you say you have "the stock 07LGT aux harness"? Is that just the short segment that originally went from C8 to C1? How did you connect the aux wires into your car's i85 plug? It's possible that your aux jack itself is bad -- that's not uncommon. Try temporarily wiring a cable with a 3.5mm plug to your 6-pin C8 plug (bypassing your aux pod), plug the 3.5mm plug into your MP3 player, and see whether both channels work. Remember you'll need to ground the HU's enable line (what goes to the HU's pin 6). If both channels work that way, your jack is bad. If they still don't work, you have a problem in your wiring between C8 and i85.

Are you using the Impreza aux harness? That is what caused the problem Scooby2.5 was having. When you use that harness, you must either re-pin the 6-pin plug that plugs into bottom of the Legacy aux jack, or hack an Impreza aux jack's PC board and swap that into the Legacy jack's plastic "pod." If you still have access to the 2007 donor car, you could also remove and use its aux harness (it's actually comprised of a chain of two harnesses, which you could shorten and splice together).

In 2005-2007 Legacys/Outbacks (and some 2004 models outside North America), the audio controls are split across the left and right "pods," as shown in trabbic's 1st post. Beginning in 2008 Legacy/Outback, the cruise controls were moved to the face of the steering wheel, on the right side "pod." The left pod is either a blank or the audio controls (when equipped). See this post for links to guides on swapping in the audio+cruise pod kit. The harnesses are plug-and-play for these years -- no hacking required. Note that some factory HU models (possibly just the single-CD HUs) do not support SWCs. If you haven't already bought the SWI-JACK, consider buying an Axxess ASWC instead. The one ASWC model works with most cars and HUs, doesn't have any lag, automatically programs itself, and costs less.

I don't recall mentioning resistors with aux inputs. If you want to leave two things plugged in at the same time, I do recommend using an A/B switch -- either a simple toggle switch (would need to be DPDT -- double pole double throw = 6 pins), or a device such as PAC Audio's AS21. The only place I think I've mentioned resistors recently is to test whether an OEM HU can work with steering wheel controls.

Check out PAC Audio's uPAC-SB1. Ask them whether it's compatible with your OEM HU. PAC now has a newer model ISSB571 that also may work. Otherwise, you would need some device to trick the HU into thinking there's a sat receiver connected. You can't simply connect the audio lines to the HU's expansion bus socket and press the SAT button.

There must be a reason they said to use that, so it will be fine.

That's OK. But unless the LOC specifically wants +12V battery, I would use +12V accessory (so that will be one less thing drawing power when you take out your key).

Yes. Unless you want to use a remote trigger module instead (detects sound on a speaker line and creates a real amp remote turn-on signal).