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Frank, just for your privacy I would blur the plate.

I'm wondering if it would be possible to modify the climate control unit to work independently, as it already does, or in sync with the drivers setting. I think I might hack up my old factory radio to stmee if I can get it working. Anybody else think it's possible?

Wy are you using an inverter? Just buy a one amp usb car charger and use that. You can buy a specific usb cable on ebay that will make the tab thinks it is running ac instead of usb. Because it already has the data pins shorted. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Oh, I see. I guess I had that backwards. I wasn't thinking about the flame still being ignited in a "retarded" situation. Whereas, I'm assuming, in an advanced situation you are concentrating more heat inside the combustion chamber thereby possibly causing a piston melt situation. Correct? Thanks frank.

Couldn't possibly burn a piston by advancing timing too much? If I felt confident enough in technical knowledge I would try it. But when it comes to tuning I would rather live that to those that know much more than I.

25.2 MPG, that isn't bad at all. I'm currently averaging like 22-23 mixed driving. I was getting 27 hwy mainly last year. But I'm sure you have atleast double the power than I do. Me=envious.

How did you get yours to fit so well. I have the gaps like most everybody else does.

I can't fully answer the question, but my evo view will run for 2-4 days on mostly just screen off idle. It's stock unrooted. I'm sure rooted you could extend it out further through underclocking. Just make sure auto sync is off so it doesn't try and pull a wifi signal when there isn't one. I just realized you meant the car battery. Sorry, my reading comprehension skills suck today. I would say you aould have a parasitic drain of about 0.05 Ah (assuming me you screen off.). Screen on would pull about 0.5-0.7 Ah. That's about the level mine charges at intermittently when it is at full capacity. So I would say not very likely. I think the typical passenger car battery, iirc, has about a 30Ah charge. (ca's and cca's don't equal battery charge, just sustained current for a short period ) Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

No problem, I'm interested in this as a temp solution because I have the flyer/evo. And it's not commonly known that you can't fully charge and use mhl. I only found out a couple of months ago. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Might want to scrap the mhl idea. Because the tablet uses the data pins to charge, so if you're using navigation etc. You'll lose charge because the mhl adapters can only charge at a maximum of 500 mAh, but without the mhl adapter you can use and charge because the data pins are not being tied up for data output. Other than that, I eagerly await your creation as I was contemplating the same with my evo view. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

What school you go to? I'm at uncc. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

This is a little harsh. Honestly, I rarely have to turn it off of 70-71 degrees. I just wish it had a single zone CC mode. Other than that, I still really enjoy my car.

My only issue with our system that I believe is a disadvantage is the fact there is no auto passenger mode, like nissan has. Where the passenger side mimics that of the driver. Instead you have to set each individually. That's my only complaint with our dzcc.

Here's my install. The shifter bezel doesn't fit like I would like, but ill file the tabs later and make it look right. I need to paint the side pieces and shift bezel anyway. Car: 05 legacy gt Hu: Kenwood Ddx418 No navigation with bluetooth ~405 after tax. I used the part number from the original install thread along with the jdm hazard switch. I think it was like ~440 for both pieces shipped. Then the harnesses from svxdc. I think it was like ~85 shipped, but I also bought a steering wheel control module and plan on buying a new steering wheel with audio controls out of a newer one. I think it took me two hours total to install.

True, I just wanted it for the fact, like you, that I would have been the only person to do so. Plus, I have had an obsession with the LS series motors since I was a kid.

Why not do it? Some could say, "well why do you buy a bigger turbo, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust, ETC." Some people like bone stock cars, some people like projects, just to have projects. Personally, I THINK IT IS AWESOME. A) it's an extremely reliable engine, B) it's cheap, and replacement, performance and other parts are cheap. C) no one else has it.

Frank, How much larger is the LS series motors than the 3.8? Also, how would one go about changing his 5mt AWD to a P/T RWD car? This is really a great project. If my 2.5 goes I might hit you up for some plans. (and I have an odd ticking in the bank 1 cylinder 1 area. So it might be sooner rather than later.)

Those who have already completed an install probably wont check the other thread. I posted my comment HERE for a REASON. It was a thought for those who have done the install to try for better fitment. Unless someone else has already tried it. It's a message board, try not to take the place so seriously. It's one thing to post a new thread about something that has been discussed to death, and it's one thing to post something on topic about others installs.

I just placed an order with this guy, and his customer service before hand rocked. I emailed him a couple of questions about his dome lights and he responded in 2 mins. Literally. my email went out at 11:20 he responded at 11:22. I haven't received the product yet, obviously because I just got done placing the order, but based on the preceding events I have no reason to think I would have an issue.

So, I got to thinking about the fitment issues and was wondering if we could buy the sides and ashtray from japan to see if that would fix our issues? They may not fit, I was just wondering if someone had tried it?

Sorry, this comment was made before I fully looked though all the stickies. I'm usually better than this. Sorry again.

The "power" aspect of the "power brakes" are provided by vacuum, and are only for an easier to push pedal. Personally, after driving race cars without power brakes, I don't care much for it. Then again, I don't really care for ABS either. Just personal preference.

On racing applications this is the reason behind slots. It's to relieve the gas that builds up (only small, but it does exist) to combat fade.

I disagree, I think it depends on how long you plan on keeping the car. I plan on keeping mine for a long, long time. I would eventually like to get a CTS-V or M35/45x but that will be a few years. Until then, I plan on putting a decent chunk into this one. It's really the first car I have ever owned that I want to spend money on.