Val Demar

I ordered the part, will find out soon I will use this opportunity to replace that sticky starter, have one on order too. I know the old one can be reconditioned, but I think the price of a new one is a reasonable insurance I don't have to get back to it in case the repair didn't work or worse yet I break the old one in the process. Dealer wants to charge for 3 hour labor for both, I'll try DIY first.

Thanks, the extra material on the 2013 mount kind of makes sense given the shocks must be more damping to counteract stiffer springs, so extra force can be transmitted to the mount. I think I'll order 2013s, if they aren't it I can probably just reuse the 2010s I have now.

Uncertainty about rear shock mounts as they are a different part# between 2010/13, OEM or KYB. If I go with 2013 shocks sounds I should get the 2013 mounts? Or they mate with the car differently and I should stick with the 2010 part? The front mounts are the same part#. Thoughts?

Good observation on the AJ08A vs. the AJ10A. Strangely the AJ10A also lists the 6MT model. I do wonder how a dealer decides between them when ordering parts or if there is any official recommendation from Subaru when to use one or the other on the 6MT model. Good point on the KYB being different for 2013, I didn't realize that. There's only one part for the rear spring fpr 2013, 20380AJ10A, seems like this is what I should get.

Yeah, I get that. I'm not set up for this project and for me the benefits do not seem to be worth the extra effort/cost required for getting it done. If I can firm up the ride a bit that's all I'm after.

I did not but probably should have. I had the car for 2 years and I don't think the previous owner had done alignment too. At this point and car age the shocks needs to be replaced anyway, and alignment will be done as a part of it.

I thought about Konis but the feedback I got here was that if I don't want to drop the car I shouldn't bother and just go with OEM or KYB equivalents for simplicity. As for the springs, I should be looking at 2013+ then? 20330AJ08A or J10A?

Seems it is time to replace all struts on my 2010 LGT as I noticed uneven wear patterns on the tires - some thread blocks wore out more than others and increased road noise because of it. The wheels were balanced so the shocks are the suspects as there is also visible sweating. I read that the springs from later year models are better than those that came originally on 2010 so it is a good time to get new springs too. Looking at the Subaru parts catalog I see these spring part numbers that are compatible with 2010: Front: 20330AJ00A, 20330AJ02A, 20330AJ03A Rear: 20380AJ00A, 20380AJ01A, 20380AJ02A The 2012 LGT lists Front: 20330AJ02A, 20330AJ03A Rear: same parts as 2010 Which spring parts do I want? Is the 20330AJ03A/20380AJ02A combo for front/rear the latest and greatest? No plan to drop the car so I will go with the KYB OEM direct replacement struts. This is the list of parts I think I need, am I missing anything? 1. KYB 2 front (339223, 339222) / 2 rear (340026) struts 2. New springs 3. KYB front (SM5361) / rear (SM5764) strut mounts (or should I go with OEM)? 4. KYB strut boots (SB103/SB113) Any other recommendations what should be done at the same time? Many thanks in advance for any advice.

It would seem it has been in a bad shape for some time until now so likely it will last for couple more weeks. Do you recall how big of a job was it to replace it? I peeked and it seemed the whole intake needs to come of. Are those clamps holding it reusable?

Yesterday I noticed a rubber vacuum fitting in a bad shape, visible crack and oil sipping through, this seems to be a part of the emission control system like a vent connector from the engine internals into the intake, part 99071AD440. Is this something that I should take care of ASAP? It sits under the intercooler on the passenger side close to the back of the engine. Seems the whole intake collector/intercooler must come off to get to this sucker, which can be a bit too much effort for a DIY project given I don't have much time for these things lately. I'll post pictures later.

I do get that feeling, especially at freeway speeds, but there are probably other things in the suspension I need to address given the age at the car.

Will it be correct to say the Konis is just a firmer ride then?

Interesting, I think I only saw the 1447s on the Konis website listed for my car.

So they would be the springs to get even with the Konis if I wanted to keep the same ride height?

I wonder how much of the perceived improvement was simply due to going from used tired shocks to new. I'm still debating so the advice is much appreciated.

Thank you, this also answers my next question if I should replace the springs at the same time. 13-14 OEM springs would be for the standard Legacy as the Gt hasn't been offered in the US, right? What makes them better, are they stiffer than the 2010 springs?

It's a 2010 LGT, all stock, original shocks.

Shock replacement is looming. I don't race, driving style is moderate aggressive, not looking to drop the car, the car is more of a commuter than anything else. Do I want the Koni inserts and rears with the extra cost and time to put them in or should I just get the KYB OE replacements and call it a day?

I thought they were mechanically attached guess not. Makes sense.

Now seems like about the time these cars will need new struts no matter what, which could create a business case for Koni to consider? I will need to replace mine soon as they are slowly leaking, and given a choice between stock and Koni I think the selection would be pretty obvious.

What's the deal with the missing Subaru logos on the engine cover? Mine is missing it too.