scoobyscoodle

I got around to doing this mod and am seeing a pretty large reduction in my fuel trims, definitely worth while!

 

And no more stumble!

I just put the Perrin damper lockdown in my car, since the install took 10 minutes and I'm too lazy to swap the u-joint. I'm really happy with it and it's also much cheaper than the Sti part.

My Defi gauges come with pretty thick line.

 

 

Tell me what you guys think of this plan:

 

I have a Tial 50mm bpv, which is supposed to run off 1/4" vac line, not 1/8". Currently I'm just running a reducer off the 1/8" line that feeds the factory bpv. I'm thinking of running my boost gauge off the cylinder #4 nipple, run my FPR off the factory bpv nipple on the plenum, and then T my Tial BPV onto the much larger brake booster vac reference line so the Tial gets the flow it's designed for.

 

What say you?

Good place to attach a boost gauge to ..

 

This is what I was thinking, that way I can eliminate a T and some hose from my BPV reference line, and eliminates the need for a plug. And the variance of cylinder #4 probably isn't enough to notice on a 2" analog gauge anyway, correct?

Definitely going to do this mod. How are you guys capping off the cylinder #4 nipple?

I'm still not convinced that the VDC will give you issues in an LGT, please let us know how it turns out!

For me I prefer my XD's, but if I were to recommend an all around poly striker gun to a friend I'd probably recommend a glock. Like said above, the aftermarket and informational support is unmatched in any other platform aside from the good ol' 1911.

 

 

 

 

But what do I know, we're only allowed musket loaders here.

Picked this up today. My 10 day wait period had expired, so I was finally free to take home my purchase.

 

Looks great Mike, love the fluted barrel!

Hmm, yea you'd need to turn it more than that to break the roll connector.

Did you turn the wheel without it being connected to the rack? This would break the roll connector and give you that warning light. I have since learned my lesson.

Does VDC engage while you are driving at all? Is it just turned off or not functioning properly?

Interested in results Peter!

I'm with you. Every time I get under the front of my car part of me deep down is hoping to see a leaking steering rack, haha.

 

Can't bring myself to toss a perfectly good rack.

Man that schematic really makes things easier. A picture is worth 1,000 words haha.

Are you talking about removing the front subframe spacers or the rear ones? When I converted my obxt to a LGT setup I kept the front spacers in so the motor was still lower, but swapped out everything in the rear.

You will need to do whatever is necessary to remove the old toe bolts. I'd start with PB blaster and some heat. Worse case scenario is having to cut it out of there without damaging the subframe. You will need to do this no matter what option you go with.

 

Which bushings are you talking about specifically? In the rear if you get the control arm kit then there are only the two left in the upper control arm.

 

Then with the rear diff there are bushings you press into the diff crossmember. The press in inserts go into the subframe, which are much easier than the ones that need to be pressed in, because you need to remove the subframe for those.

But what about all the monies I already spent on my HFLSD that's in my spec.b trans!

 

Haha, maybe I don't really need DCCD. Or maybe if I pickup a second gen4 I have a place for my Spec.B trans.

Let's focus on the rear first. The KCA124 is the arm kit, it does not NEED to be used with the toe lockout kit, but I highly recommend it. I ran the arm kit for awhile with the stock toe bolts but under high lateral loads, those friction toe adjustments will move eventually, throwing off your alignment. Also, since your bolts are seized, you need new bolts anyway. To fix your problem you can either 1) replace stock toe bolts with new stock toe bolts, or 2) replace stock toe bolts with KCA124/KCA307. Option 2 is obviously much much more expensive, and only you can decide if you need/want to go that route.

 

KCA399 will work along with the adjustable arms and lockout mentioned above, but it does become unnecessary at that point. All KCA399 does is give you camber adjustment, which the arms will also give you. Nothing wrong with running both, but yes it's redundant in that sense.

 

Roll center kit really has nothing to do with the rear end, but it will require an alignment. I recommend the RC kit for any car that has been lowered at all. So if you wanna throw that in before you get your car re-aligned, then that would be a wise choice.

 

The offset positive caster bushings, KCA344, will actually complement the RC kit, they actually work very well together, so no issues there. Additional caster really helps this car out. The KCA344 and RC kits do different things, I have both on my car.

 

As far as diff bushings go, you have the bushings in the diff crossmember/carrier, as well as the press in bushing inserts that go into the subframe. I have both and I do think they make a worthwhile difference. However, these have nothing to do with suspension or alignment, so you can do these whenever you choose.

On the 6MT boxes with the pump, where is the pump located?

 

 

scoobyscoodle you should also consider that the Spec B 6MT doesn't have the oil pump that STI trannys have.

 

So if you swap in a STI 6 MT you get the DCCD and the oil pump. And the oil pump also makes it easily possible to add a tranny cooler if you get serious about tracking your car, which it sounds like you are.

 

I spoke with Rallispec on the phone last week and they informed me that for the DCCD swap on the SpecB trans I would need the DCCD unit, wiring harness, oil pump, transfer gears, as well as either the DCCD tail housing or machine a hole in mine for the DCCD wiring harness.

 

It's pretty obvious that the cheapest way to go about this is a STI 6MT swap, but I really would like to keep the original trans in the car (not sure why I just do haha) and I also really like my 5th and 6th gear ratios. I'm not really in a huge rush to do any of this though, just an idea I've been toying with for some time now.

Very good information in that thread, but seems like it's mostly geared towards drag racing and AutoX launches. I never launch the car so that isn't my interest in a CLSD. I am more interested in road course and the ability of the DCCDPro in auto mode to modulate lockup after apexes and transitions.

My main reason for upgrading would be increased traction and the 40:60 torque split instead of the 50:50 from the center VLSD I have now.

 

I also like the automatic mode offered by DCCDPro as it seems like it would make better use of the two HLSD's I have. My main hesitation with the cusco tarmac is that it's an open diff, but it does have the rear bias torque split.

 

I was not aware that Quafie made a CD for these cars?

 

 

I also want to keep my Spec.B trans for the taller 5th and 6th gears.

Is the rear extension case the third section at the very tail of the transmission, that is almost triangular in shape?

 

If I already have helical LSD's front and rear, would the DCCD be worth the trouble?

Has anyone swapped the DCCD into a Spec.B trans? What is required and is it a worthwhile upgrade from the VCLSD?

 

Looks like the DCCD unit is around $2,600

1.) As stated above, they allow you to have zero preload on the bar when at static height.

 

2.) Depends on what you do with the car, but if used for spirited driving, this chassis will respond better to additional caster and negative camber. Make sure toe is zero to reduce tire wear, and expect a heavier steering feel from the additional caster. Also, this will increase NVH a bit, but not excessive. Make sure to get a proper performance alignment after.

 

3.) Absolutely worth it if you will be lowering about 1". I would not pass on this kit when running your proposed springs.

 

4.) Predictable oversteer can be induced with proper alignment settings. I'm not sure what diameter bar the tribeca runs, but I really like running the same diameter bar front and rear.

 

5.) They tighten up the steering a bit. The rack is mounted to the subframe with soft rubber bushings, and the poly reduces the play in the rack that they create. Not night and day difference, but worth it in my opinion.

 

In addition, I would get the Koni inserts over the Bilsteins. They are a better shock and are also rebound adjustable so you can really dial them in to work well with your lowering springs.

SpecB rack is the same ratio as the lgt at 15:1.

 

Has anyone with a VDC legacy (non-outback) gone from the 15:1 rack to the 13:1 Sti rack and had issues?

 

It seems like the WRX guys that went to the Sti rack didn't have issues, and most of the issues I see are people making very large changes in ratio, i.e., 15:1 going to a 11.5:1 Q rack, or the outback/foz guys going to the new 13:1 rack.