bigboy292000

Due to an issue that I have with our Legacy (will post separately) - I have called two dealers over the last few days. As a general check if there are any outstanding recalls on the car that they do, they both told me that there is a pending recall on my car, related to Takata airbag (unclear if passenger or driver) - and they both said that this likely means a recall campaign was not yet made public but it is coming. Did anyone else hear about this? I am personally hoping it is related to passenger airbag, so when they work on that, I can ask them to replace all of the airflow blend actuators (at least two of them are making noise by now on my car). I have already had previous Takata recalls done. But for example for my 2005 Honda Accord, Takata recalls were done twice.

I have noticed recently that my Tapatalk Pro app on iOS gives me a notification bell for when people reply to my post or quote me, however I do not have a link in the app to the actual post that the notification is for. I reached out to Tapatalk support as I originally thought that there was an issue with one of their app updates. Their support has looked into it and they say that based on their research, the problem is with the Legacygt forum plug-in being out of date (whatever that means). If site admins are aware of what this is - it would be appreciated if this would be updated at some point. Thanks!

Practicing thread necromancy here but had a question: So are all spoilers glued on? I'm a bit confused by this; I would like to replace the LED strip but not if it means screwing up the trunk lid obviously. How would I find out if mine is glued on? Also - unclear about the clips; did anyone figure out the source for the clips?

Today I confirmed that there is no way to take this part out without taking the dash out first. Took the instrument cluster out and while there is a small bracket that can come out from behind it, there is not enough space to work on the actuator. The left driver side air vent duct is in the way. You can grab the actuator, see the flap freaking out through the central vent but that is all. I don't quite understand why taking the dash out would require removing the steering column though. I don't think it does unless you really need to take the heater core out. I'm likely not going to do anything right now but yeah... PITA! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Well, on quality... I have stories. I understand that different MY have different issues. A 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with ~94K on the clock. Starter (that horrible screech that would not go away), 2 engine mounts, oil in spark plug tubes / plug seals. Failed trunk struts (about to have to replace for the 2nd time). Reflash of CVT to stop car from dying at stop signs when AC is running. Failed timing belt tensioner (was making noise but I was thinking to replace timing belt a little early so OK). Failed drive belt tensioner (was noisy and visibly vibrating a lot). Failed passenger outer tie rod. One day my wife enters the car and passenger side A pillar trim is on the floor (failed clips). Latest thing is failing driver side air mix door actuator; dealer says $1450 to fix as you need to take the dash out to get to heater core (still figuring that one out). Oh yeah, also - there is something else going on with the transmission. When the car is in drive (but stopped), the AC is running and I turn the wheel just slightly so power steering pump kicks in, there is chatter somewhere deep inside, I think the transmission area, and the car wants to die. Several LEDs in the OEM spoiler died. I will never buy another.

I'd do what Crutchfield suggests. They never lead me astray yet.

Yeah... And so it might be however you bet they will charge me book time even if it takes them 2/3 of it to do the job. Service department and used cars is where dealership makes some money as margins on new are low. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Went to the dealer today. The parts guy was well aware of this problem and said the part is not a problem but to go talk to the service advisor. Service advisor pretty much immediately said (apparently he is aware of this problem) - 9 hours of labor + parts = $1450 to get it fixed. I'm planning to try take the instrument cluster out and see if those 6 screws that I see in the video of instrument cluster replacement can give me any more space to get this done without this major surgery. I'm not too hopefull.

Yeah that looks like a major PITA. Went to the dealer today and for my 5th gen Legacy (I think yours is a 4th gen, right), they quoted me 9 hours of work + a cost of a part for just about $1450 to get this fixed.

I have an issue where after I take a key out, I can hear the mechanical / servo sound repeatedly behind the dash. Additionally, at times, when I put the air to both top and bottom vents, the air blows irregularly (like stronger, then not as strong etc. randomly). I found a thread that deals with this, here. I have done some research and based on what my mechanics stetoscope is telling me, the part that is going is the driver side #2 on the illustration below, of the part marked with a red arrow on the photo. Air mix door actuator. The problem is - this part is so high up in the car; basically a little lower than the gauge cluster. I just can't reach it from the bottom even after I remove the lower trim. My question is: Has anyone replaced this on a 5th gen? The above thread is mostly 4th gen. Youtube has nothing. The shop manual seems to indicate that I basically need to follow instructions for heater core removal which means taking the whole dash out, sterring column and all. I do not think that even removing the gauge cluster will give me any more clearance to work, based on this video (at 1:35 into the video): Any words of wisdom?

I have gone though the shop manual left and right and the only instructions that I see are: There is no other information on replacing the actuator, without removing the heather core; of course, I would not need to remove the heater core but to get access, AC-54 then refers to: Which basically means removing the front trim; starting with middle console, bottom trim, steering column, stereo system and the instructions actually go into removing the whole dash. What is unclear is what I'd actually need to do to gain access to the actuator; I do not plan to take the heater core out (so whole dash does not need to come out). But I just don't see how I can get to this part without removing the steering column to gain access?

OK so I undid the bottom trim today (under the steering wheel) and by using the car stetoscope that I have, was able to figure out that the driver side #2 "Air mix door actuator" is the part that is dying. The problem is that this thing is so far up inside the dash and PITA to get to (there is basically no space for me to undo it that I can see) that I'm considering taking it to the dealer to replace. Sigh. (I dislike working on this car as it is all so convoluted and the shop manual does not really provide enough detail IMO).

Did anyone replace those things on the 5th gen Legacy? One of ours is freaking out, pretty much non-stop now (silent only sometimes but goes crazy otherwise). Having read though this thread, it seems like most of the photos etc. are of earlier gen cars where there are two actuators on the central side of passenger aide. But if the following is true, it appears like 5th gen Legacy has two on driver side (central section), one on passenger side (central section) and yet another actuator on the passenger side (close to the door). I guess the process is generally the same: I need to figure out which one is freaking out (I'm guessing one of the driver side ones) and then take the trim off from under the steering wheel to gain access. I am having difficult time figuring out what names of those parts are so I can find the part numbers?

For what it's worth: Back when Accord introduced DI in 9th gen Accord, lots of people on Accord forum lost their collective minds about carbon buildup. I go there often as I have 2 Accords (7th and 9th gen - a 2017). After many mega-threads about DI and carbon buildup, I don't think I have ever seen a single thread where someone had to do something about it or an engine had to be torn down because of it to the point to see the carbon buildup. There are multiple 9th gens with 300K+ on the clock. That's not to say that Subaru might not have an issue with this; but I think the blasting every 30-60K does not have to be a thing, on a modern DI engine (and Accord 9th gen does not have dual/hybrid injection like I think Camry does). (shrug!) EDIT: new Civic engines are using DI also, BTW; this is a photo that one of Civic tuner vendors took of Civic valves @ 35K miles (note that new Civics are all turbo charged, 9th gen Accord is not)

Had popping on the front passenger side. Seemed like an inner tie rod was gone. So I got an inner and outer tie rods and today I took them off. As it turns out, the outer tie rod had a small tear in it also. Unfortunately, as I took the inner boot off, I noticed it was wet inside (we had a ton of rain over last week). So I put it all back together temporarily (with new parts and no boot) until I can get the boot (should be Tuesday) so the car will be parked for a few days. Annoyed that nobody stocks these parts but that's a problem with being a Subaru owner in DFW, I guess...

… or a Ziploc bag method. Crack it loose and then a Ziploc bag goes over it; it lets you catch most of the mess while still unscrewing the filter.

Changed: Timing belt (Aisin TKF-006 kit) All the idlers Water pump Thermostat Upper and lower radiator hoses I'm beat; my back will be hurting tomorrow, LOL! It was kind of a PITA to put the new timing belt on; the slack on the lower side was simply not enough. I backed out the cog idler almost completely and pulled it toward the front of the car and then between that having some extra play and the water pump I was able to get it on. Then I put the lower left idler on (that was easy). Then I realized that when I put the new water pump on, I did not put a little angled rubber gasket on the passenger side. Sigh. So I had to redo it. Watch for little parts! Do as I say, not as I do!

Took my Pioneer HU out today because something was rattling back there. Hopefully that's better now. Also - took the driver side section of timing cover off. I am pretty convinced that my timing belt tensioner is failing. In fact, V-belt tensioner was failing too and replaced that this past week but still hearing noises. If I push down on the timing belt a little with my finger as close to tensioner as I can get it, I can hear a click The car is only at 85K but I guess it's getting a timing belt and a water pump also, I'll just get it all done as I'm going in already...

It's not a squeak, it is more like a quiet thumping. It is not very consistent and you literally cannot hear a thing from the engine side (not yet, anyway). Had a difficult time to get it to reproduce, so I had my wife in the car, turning AC on/off, putting the car in drive / park and then it started happening. Once I touched the bolt of the V belt tensioner it was clear that this is the problem. Well, anyway, I know I need to replace this. Now, if something else is also going on... I guess we'll see.

Wife mentioned there was a strange relatively quiet noise in the car that is new. Yesterday I played with it and noticed that it happens only when AC is on. Strangely you can't really hear it outside but only inside. Bought a mechanics stethoscope on Amazon yesterday, it arrived today. Took me a few minutes but I narrowed it down to the V-belt tensioner. Unfortunately, it was too late so I'll have to swing by the dealer on Monday and get it...

Had a few smaller yet annoying chips in the windshield. Wife kept complaining about them. Had some faded dealer installed tint (live in TX). So took the car to a tint place. They stripped the faded tint. Replaced the windshield. Re-tinted the whole car with ceramic tint and then also tinted the windshield with clear / high UV rejection ceramic too. Oh yeah - also door handle cups.

Not really the right thread to post in but here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance2.html Basically, your timing belt needs to be replaced very soon. If it was my car, I'd do it now. Broken timing belt is a Very Bad Thing and while people have run them to 140k that would drive me crazy. Find a reputable 3rd party shop that knows Subaru, it will be more affordable than the dealer.

Attached are the two relevant TSBs one of which includes the warranty extension paperwork. 16-90-13R New Lockup Torque Converter.pdf Subaru CVT TSB.pdf

A week ago, when I was out of town, my wife calls and says the lights went out (low beams). Odd. Both at the same time (or possibly within a few days of each other). Found that old letter from Subaru extending the warranty on the bulbs and she went to the dealer and had them both replaced. Huh! Then, took the Legacy to the ski trip; TX <> CO; just over 1900 miles. two adults, two kids (one a teen) and all our stuff. 31 mpg for the whole trip. Nice! When there, the car was really difficult to start; so today I replaced the crappy Subaru battery (it was oxidizing all over the place) with Interstate from Costco. Next up - I need to go to the dealer and complain about torque converter. The car died on me today at the stop sign and threatens to die (really rough slowdown but keeps alive) quite frequently. Sigh. Not sure if they will be willing to do anything unless I can reproduce...