elgin.owens

I did mention the problem to cobb when I had a ticket open for broken clips on my cable, but they just chalked it up to the cable being broken. Then when I got the new cable they just kinda ignored my complaints about the screen flickering. I probably need to just open a new ticket now for the screen flicker that way they have to address the problem.

When I have my Cobb Accessport on displaying gauges during a WOT pull, the gauges will disappear and the screen goes blank for a second, then the gauges come back up with the peak values all reset. It's almost like it reboots for some reason, but not really a full reboot, it just flickers off/on. It doesn't happen every time so the problem is intermittent, but does happen frequently. At first I thought this was just an issue with my setup (06 LGT, w/ V3 AP) however my friend's 08 LGT w/ V3 AP does the same exact thing. He's actually got a video of it happening, I however have not been able to capture a video myself. If anyone is interested to see exactly what we are experiencing, I can get the video from him when he gets back into town. My theory on the source of the issue is a power supply problem, it's almost as if during just the right circumstances, the ECU is unable to supply enough power to the AP. I'd like to get my hands on some equipment to measure voltage supply to the AP and log the data to see if there is a momentary voltage drop that's triggering this. Is anyone else experiencing a similar issue? Does anyone have a suggestion for getting this issue resolved?

Just thought I'd post an update about my idea for a DIY fuel pump control module. I finally received a response to my thread on the Electrical Engineering Community (EEweb.com)... "Hi, Elgin using a mosfet will solve your problem, mosfet IRF540 gate threshold v is min 2v and max 4v and has a max load current of 33 amps provide a good heat zing for the mosfet. good luck – Sambath kumar" Now I just need to look into how to actually use that mosfet IRF540 in place of my FPCM. Time to read start reading data sheets and asking my questions on EEweb!

Yeah I figured out my idea to just use an SSR isn't likely to work. Primarily because the data sheet for the SSR says the PWM signals must be minimum of 8vdc. Then I read on nasioc from a guy who claims to have actually used an oscilloscope to measure the ecu signal, "The stock FPC receives a PWM signal from the ECU (to determine if the speed should be 100%, 66% or 33%) and then produces a high current 12V (or whatever battery voltage is) PWM signal to power the pump. The signal from the ECU is actually 3.8V peak with an approximate frequency of 80Hz." Here's the link to the nasioc.com thread incase anyone cares to read. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2203955

I'm looking to maintain the fuel pump duty cycle control via the ECU. After speaking with the tech from Digikey I've decided to use this one from Crouzet... Crouzet C/O BEI Systems and Sensor Company 84137870 (SSR GN IP20 DC 30A/50VDC) Voltage - Input (Siganl) 3 ~ 32VDC Voltage - Load (Output) 1 ~ 50VDC @ 30A Output Type DC Circuit SPST-NO (1 Form A) Found a brand new one of these on Ebay for $44.00, now I just need to find the heat sink for it. Hopefully, this way I'll be able to control the duty cycle of up to 30A worth of fuel pump(s), using the PWM signal from the ECU!

Anyone ever considered using a Solid State Relay (SSR) for controlling the fuel pump via the PWM signal from the ECU? I'm almost certain that is all the FPCM really is inside. It appears as though the Subaru FPCM just has two small wires for +5vdc/- from the ECU, then two sets of large wires for the Source +/- and Pump +/-. I'm thinking of trying out one of these 20A 5vdc Omron SSR's. First I'll need to confirm if the signal from the ECU is +5vdc PWM. I think this one from Digikey would be the best candidate, Omron Automation and Safety G3NA-420B-DC5-24

Hey M Sprank what's up with that spoolinator? We're you testing it on a LGT and if so how was the fitment? I've got a FMIC so mostly I'm just concerned about the DP and 3" inlet tube fitment. Any more info you can provide on your setup? Killer-B told me they weren't aware of anyone who was using it on a LGT, so that made me nervous, as I don't want to be the guinea pig! Thinking I really like the dyno graphs you posted. I'd like to know which turbo you went with? I've seen some graphs from Killer-B posted on nasioc for the GTX3067R and they had great spool-up. Thinking I may want a touch more power so I might go with the GTX3071R, but I'm not sure how much that will push peak boost to the right.

Nice work CovertRussian you're the BEST!! Thanks for taking the time to figure this out, write the tutorial and update this thread with the link! I really appreciate your hard work and dedication on this project!

Nice work man! I wonder if the Chevy guys already have a bypass method or if any of them would be interested in finding one. I've been researching plastic welding... I think the most promising method is to carefully cut the top of the filter section open, remove the element and plastic weld the top closed again. Then I gotta figure out a way to pressure test it once it's welded closed again...

Any thoughts on what the metal piece is that can be seen looking throught the plug hole in the second pic. I thought it strange that they have a wire going to the plug assembly thing, any ideas on that. I feel the need to fully understand the system before I can be confident in redesigning it. I've been contemplating cutting the top open removing the paper element and plastic welding it shut seems plausible and simple if one knew how to weld plastic. I believe the housing is made of nylon plasic

Here's a diagram showing the plumbing for the fuel pump and jet pump. http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc228/elginowens_photos/FuelPumpPlumbing-1.jpg

MDTURBO did a great write up about 10 years ago about how the fuel system functions, unfortunately the pictures have gone missing. Even without the pictures some useful info can still be salvaged from his thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mts-fuel-pump-project-24003.html

I found something useful in my research... If one were to run hose from the pump to feedneck, one must choose the type of hose carefully because not all fuel hose is designed for submersion in fuel.Standard fuel injection hose carried by autopart stores is only SAE R9 rated. SAE 30R7 is for low pressure, fuel inside only (return lines and carb feed lines) SAE 30R9 is for high pressure, fuel inside only (feed lines in engine bay and hoses externally around fuel pump) SAE 30R10 is for high pressure, submersible. (use for In-tank plumbing). I'm thinking the two exits on the stock assembly have to do with the jet pump which transfers fuel over the driveshaft tunnel, between the two sides of the tank. See this info from Subaru. Also worth noting is that there is another intake screen/filter on the jet pump, similar to the intake screen/filter on the primary pump.

Yeah I wish I had known that I was holding the filter assembly in my hand when I mounted my DW65C inside of it, lol. I didn't get around to working on it yet, but here's a pic I took during the DW65C install, looks like it should be pretty easy to figure out a way to switch up those tubes so they bypass the filter. Can anyone tell me what each of the 3 tubes are that attach to the top of the pump assembly?http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc228/elginowens_photos/IMAG1133.jpg

I don't have any intention of messing with the pre-pump filter only the post pump filter will be bypassed. Covertrussian - Unfortunately the thread/pic that you linked to is the STI or older WRX style pump assembly. In the new WRX and 4TH gen legacy they use an assembly that is entirely made of plastic there is no metal bracket. The pic that I posted shows the plastic assembly which houses the pump & filter on the LGT. I wish we had that metal bracket style assembly because it would make the bypass way easier. I'm going to remove the pump assembly from my car in the next few days and see what it will take to do the filter bypass. Hopefully I'm able to figure something out because I'd love to make a tutorial as my way of giving back to this community. I've learned soo much from the people here and all of the tutorials they have created that it's the least I could do.

I installed a DW65C to support my BNG 20G/TD05H and I'D 1000'S. Then when I called Cobb Tuning Surgeline to schedule my tune they suggested that I should not only replace the intake screen on the pump but also the actual fuel filter that resides inside the housing in which the pump is mounted. Here's a pic of a used filter that's been cut open. I lifted it from this thread over at iwsti. http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab157/smitty5788/IMG_0528.jpg So that got me thinking, it's about the same price for the stock replacement as it would be for a nifty inline AN-6 filter I could mount under the hood. It would go nicely with the new fuel regulator that Cobb also suggested I buy. Which by the way I'm think about getting the Fuelab 53501-1. what's your opinions on that regulator? I'm thinking I could just drill out the plastic assembly above where the pump mounts and put a hose on the pump outlet that runs down to the tube which exits the assembly, effectively bypassing the stock filter. In the pic above you can see there is a hole where the pump discharges up into a channel which directs fuel into the top of the filter. I'd just oversize the hole and put my discharge tube straight onto the pump. The part I haven't figured out yet is where to attach the other end of the tube. Probably not hard to figure out once I have it in front of me. I've read it's best to have the filter as close as possible to the injectors to eliminate any chance of contamination between the filter and injectors. I realize that it's pretty far fetched that there's going to be any contamination with the hardline between the two, but you never know.

Has anyone successfully bypassed or deleted the in-tank fuel filter and installed one under the hood? I'd like to figure out a way to do the bypass then I can install a filter with AN-6 fittings just before the fuel rail. I found a thread where the STI guys have figured out a way to do this, but they have a different style of in-tank filter. I suspect it is going to be a little more difficult with the LGT filter because it is part of the housing that the fuel pump mounts to. Here's the link to the IWSTI thread, see post #15. http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/191712-deleting-tank-filter-relocating-under-hood-2.html