Zephrant

Thanks for the link, just ordered two. Have not yet torn my door apart to survey, but for $6 and change it was worth having them on hand when I do.

Harbor Freight as well. For plastic, any cheap step drill will work.

I also get a little bit of a whine if the CPU music is stopped but the radio is turned up, but I found out recently that the "shielded" aux-in cable I was using was not really shielded. I bought some better cables and will get them in the next time I tear it apart. So double-check that your cable is really shielded...

Mine worked great for several months- in fact it was the only part of my carpc experience that was 100% solid. But last week the left channel audio went out. I checked the end of the cable at the PC, and it doesn't run the left channel even when connected to my phone. So when I get time I'll start back-tracking the cable to the device. Glad to see you are making another batch though. : )

I think I finally got my car PC setup to resume correctly. The key was to enable "Hybrid suspend" and set the power supply to never turn off. It only takes a few seconds to come back if the power supply has not shut it off. Oddly, a full resume can take me 2.5 minutes, where a cold boot only takes a minute (but the GPS and sometimes the touch-screen don't always come back up on a cold boot). Unfortunately I've got the M4-ATX power supply, which has 6 mostly useless settings for how long it stays in standby then powers off. I'd like it to be in standby for one day, then hard-off. My choices are 5s, 1m, 15m, 30m, 2hrs and never. You'd think that with a USB interface, it wouldn't be hard to make those times programmable. I drive my car daily, so there is no chance of the standby computer draining the battery unless I let it sit for a week or more. I'm really disappointed in the M4-ATX supply- Good potential, terrible software support. It has a USB interface (using a non-standard plug which is not included), but the software is a systray icon that you have to hover over to see the input and output voltages. Then it fades-in with old data, updates the data and fades out in about two seconds. I don't know why I'm still amazed about crappy software... I guess because more places really get it right now days...

I picked up a used stock cubby bezel from the local parts yard, and am playing with it now. I've got it cut up a little, and am trying to figure out exactly how to mount the 7" touch screen in to it. I figure I can practice with the $29 piece, and do it again on my real piece if I need to. But I've also got to re-locate the info pod, and am too cheap to pay for the bracket to put it where the ashtray is.

Just did this on my 06, works great. I just soldered the red wire on to the green one, then put a little black tape around it. One thing to note: I had disconnected the black plug to work on it. When I plugged it back in, the remote did not work until I turned the car on and off once. Gave me a slight heart-attack there though...

My right rear door is acting up now too. I've learned that if I hold the unlock button it is fine, but it doesn't like to open from the remote fob.