caramall2

Any basic tips for tuning for these? I'm starting with a Cobb Stage 2 map for baseline. Specifically: 1) VF40 18G: Compared to stock, it has slightly slower spool (about 200 rpms later, more air especially at higher RPMs (I can maintain 16 psi or so at 6500 rpm). -- WG tables: Was thinking I may need to tweek or it might overboost -- Fuel tables: Wondering if the increase in air will lean things out too much 2) AVO actuator: 15 lb spring vs stock (12 lbs?). -- Just tweak WG tables? Thanks. Man, after looking at all the posts, I feel like a 2nd grader trying to do nuclear engineering. I may just pay PDX, TDC, etc. to tweak some maps for me. Just hate not being able to tweak things myself. Last, why won't the forum masters make a separate section for tuning so we don't have a 28 page long single thread??? I've asked but heard nothing.

While I have you experts... I have an AVO actuator on a VF40 18G (TDC) with stock restrictor pill. I tightened the actuator arm some to help prevent flutter and perhaps hold a little more boost at high rpms. It's not creeping, but, though I've since loosened it some, it was hitting about 20 psi. My question is: should I be able to tune this down with the stock solenoid, or, will I need a prodrive, or, is it simply too tight? Wish I had a good vf40 18G map to play around with...unfortunately, my TDC maps are proprietary so I can't fiddle with them.

Biggest issue to me is (I have a 2005), if you're just driving 15 minutes to work in the winter, the sensor never heats up enough to move the damper from full heat. So...if you set it to 65 freezing air comes in (because 65 is full "cold" air), if you set it to 66, you roast (because sensor thinks it's too cold and it's full "hot" air). So on my way to work I have to flip back and forth between 65 and 66...just not something I planned to do on a $30k+ car (smile). I drove a non-GT the other day with the plain old controls and it was great to just set the "cold/hot" damper right where I wanted it. This has been a problem on other Subarus too from what I've read. The sensor just doesn't get the proper flow to accurately sense the cabin temp until you've been in the car for 20 minutes or so.

Centerpunch, If you're still there, can you work your magic to figure out which wire opens the rear hatch on the wagon? That would be a great addition to the 4 doors.

Finally got around to doing this mod...excellent! Couldn't get the connector to work through the tough insulation so ended up just soldering it.

I had the dealer change my plugs as I was incredibly short on time. Could they have put platnum in instead of iridium? They said they were OEM plugs. Their "service sign" said platnum on it but I assume that's simply because other models (older models?) take platnum, not iridium. Thanks for the write up. Definitely will do them myself next time.

I'm a newbie, but after some research and looking at my situation, I think I overheated the pads (900 deg for SSM) and got deposits. I'd definitely get upgraded pads if you have stock.

I have stock rotors (which Subaru replaced once) and Endless SSMs. My problem is vibration starting when I do, say, three or four 80-50 mph hard brakes. Not sure if it's the rotors, the pads the heat or what. I just want some good, solid braking at high speeds (not the time you want the car shaking from vibrations). Seems to go away when it cools.

Maybe I have the wrong term, but when I pull up next to a new Porsche Carrera and it has cross-drilled rotors, I find it hard to believe these are such a "no no". Comments? From what Porsche says, the purpose is wet-weather braking "to dissipate water vapor pressure". That said, perhaps they're worse for heat, but better for water. P.S. I do appreciate the thread as I've learned a lot from it. Any recommendations on really good brakes that fit in stock wheels?

GREAT STUFF! This has been a frustration for me for 2 winters. Never thought about putting it on high to draw more air through the venturi--good thinking. Definitely keep me up to date on your fan idea--would love pics and part details as I definitely would like to do this. I haven't pulled off the panel yet, but what about just "blowing" some more air in the 2 slots on the panel by your knee?

Nice job! I do, however, often throw a large bag on the passenger side that then starts the chime going! I may try the multiple click way again and see if I get it to work. Still, great that you found this method!

Thanks for the response. I do have it set to foot/lower vent and defrost. That does help and is a good tip, but I still get too warm (though it's not terrible). I sometimes set the passenger for 65 and mine for 66, but kind of crazy with warm and artic air coming out at once. I sometimes long for my accord to just manually set the mixer exactly where I want it...

Anyone have any pics of where the temp sensor is for the interior? I'm going to take apart the right side of the console as I've been told that's where it is (small slits in the left side plastic cover). I've got to find some way of controlling the heat. It's -22 deg F here so it's either hot air (set control at 66), or artic (set control to 65..the lowest) on the way to work. Yes, after 25 minutes it finally stabalizes and the interior sensor finally "warms up", but then I'm at work... Can you get the manual controls with MP3 capability (play mp3 disks)? I didn't think that option was available.

Thanks for the reassurance. (Little Blue -- I finally got a block heater installed today; also had fun in the snow.)

Funny, just noticed a similar noise this week before I read this forum. Didn't seem to be happening all the time though, but definitely a lower gear, more throttle issue. Concerned it might be a rear diff sound too. Hopefully it's the rubber bushing theory becoming squeeky in the cold. Temps have dropped here a lot the past week.

Any pics? So, if I blew air into that little vent by the driver's right knee, would that help possibly? Also, any electrical whizzes that could change a resistor or something so that 66 degrees would really be more like 60 degrees? I never turn the heat above 69 or so, even when on a long drive after the sensor warms up. The whole system is way too hot.

You did this on a 2005? Any pics or can you describe what's behind the little vent openings by the driver's right knee? (Heard that's where the sensor is.) My idea is to blow air into that vent/slots.

Biggest problem as noted earlier is the temp sensor is deep in the dash and it takes forever to get warmed up properly (like 20 minutes). Thus, if it's cooler out and you want to heat up the car, it just blows non-stop hot air (even at 66) for 15-20 minutes, or cold air (if set at 65). Other aggravations...no way to lock the dual controls together...if you turn system off and on it resets to its "crazy" setting rather than what you turned it off at. Really would take my 95 honda manual controls over this (except the rare time I have 2 people in the car with different heat preferences).

Wow, just found this. Have wanted to do this (mainly because I'll think all the doors are open, go back in the garage with a load of stuff, then realize all the doors are locked but one). Heard "the dealer can do it" but have never heard of anyone actually getting the dealer to do it. Will have to splice away. Kudos for you efforts.

The Legacy definitely could use this in my opinion. It blows only hot on anything above 65 (at least in mine) for the first 15 or 20 minutes until the sensor "warms up". I emailed Sam personally and he just tried to install one on a new Legacy. Unfortunately the sensor is very hard to get at in the new Legacys. I think he finally stopped at some point but may try again. Boy, we really need this in my opinion. I drive all the time 15-20 spurts with a jacket on, etc, and roast or freeze as I flop back and forth between 65 & 66 on the dial. I long for my 95 honda with plain old manual controls.

All - Anyone wish you could set the heat (even on manual) to say, 60? I get in my car all the time with a jacket in the winter and just want a little heat. Unfortunately, whether manual or automatic, there's no "just a tiny bit of heat" setting--I start cooking even with it on 66 an low fan. At 65, as you know, there is NO heat, it's just blowing cold air. Kind of frustrates me when my 95 honda wagon has easy heat controls and I even have a radio that plays MP3s and has an ipod jack Of course, it's the driving performance and AWD that pulls people to the LGT, not the creature comforts in most cases...