4thsubaru

Not to dissuade your sale, but if you're still using the OE style one, they're known to separate and fail.

Maybe my coupler was a unicorn lasted the 11 years I keep the car, I was going to put it on buy just sold the car

New never installed. Bought it to replace OEM coupler but never installed.

Mishimoto 08-14 Subaru WRX Intercooler to Throttle Body Hose

40US / 50 CAD + shipping or best offer

Price further updated to reflect the bobos discovered in a mechanical inspection.

Some repairs that need to get done within the next year. Front and rear subframe rusted. Wastegate rusted. leak down test showing cylinder 3 @15%.

Same thing for mine, the design is not ideal for climates with winters and salt. I went to an independent mechanic outside of Toronto and had the subframe replaced for a little over 2000CAD, main expense was the subframe and not labor.

 

I had the lower control arms replaced, many bushings and other things that were made really accessible. I didn't bother trying to push the dealership for a discount since they wanted much much more for the repair...

Curious where did you buy the subframe from in Ontario. I have been looking but other than dealers I can't seem to find.

Thanks.

Sold

FS – Location (Montreal) - -Modified 2010 Legacy GT (Fully Loaded In Canada we only had the fully loaded version)

Year, Make and Model: 2010 Subaru Legacy GT

Color: Graphite Grey

Miles: 45,360 Miles (73,000 Km)

Transmission: Manuel 6 speed

Title: Clear – no accidents -one owner

Liens: No Liens

VIN:4S3BMKL63A1243452

Seller’s e-mail address: taddeom2@gmail.com

Asking Price:Sold

Price reduced to reflect some repairs that need to get done within the next year. Front and rear subframe rusted. Wastegate rusted. leak down test showing cylinder 3 @15% another cylinder at 10%, the other 2 below 7% & 5%.

I am the only owner of the car This vehicle has been tastefully modified and tuned by Lachute Perfromance. 350 engine horsepower & 350 torque. I have a file with all the bills showing the life of the car. Will give the potential new owner the whole story on the car.

Mods include alarm, coilovers, sway bars, bigger TMIC Racer X, BOV, STI Shorer Shifter, Access Port V3, STI Brembo front brakes, Invidia cat back, front lip, rear diffuser, anzo headlights and I am sure I am forgetting some things. Maintenance is up to date. Body is in excellent condition, clear 3M protection on the front. Includes winter set-up with Nokia winter tires good for atleast one winter.

Compustar Alarm Starter

Sherlock marking

Rear Window Roof Spolier

Bayson R front lip

Weather Tech Mats

Rally Armour Mud flaps

Subaru OEM short shifter

TWN Piston shifter knob

Grill Craft lower front grill

Morimoto HID

Hella horns

Whiteline 24 mm front sway bar and rear sway bar

Invidia turbo back exhaust with cats

RacerX TMIC & chargepipe

GoFast Bits BOV

Fog lights have angel eyes

Perrin shifter bushing

Group N transmission mounts

Cobb AccesPort V3

Racecomp Tarmac Zero Coilovers

Brembo Black front calipers

F1 style 4th rear brake light

Has anyone had recent experience with BNR upgrading their VF54? I am ready for the 18G upgrade but have not gotten a response from them via email or phone... Makes me a bit nervous about the whole process versus spending the extra money for the Tomioka 20G. I just don't want the 20G based on dyno results with stock exhaust fans.

Did you try Lachute Performance in Quebec, they can do it as well.

Did you check out

https://www.prolightz.com/

their in Canada, give them a call , e-mail, the service has been good the times I bought from them

Might be the turbo heat-shield under the car.

Hmmm interesting thought .... the bottom part had rusted out and partly melted the bottom engine cover but indeed the top part I was not able to remove because the piece was too big to fit in-between the available spaces ........ but that does seem like a probable cause ..... thanks

which year/engine?

2010 legacy gt

Hello 5th Geners,

So I have been noticing this slight rattle on acceleration. It doesn't always happen. It last at most 1 sec. Sounds like it would be pulley related.

I though the belt might cause it changed that, nope

My idler pulleys weren't spinning nice, changed it and the one on the tensioner. Nope

Any thoughts? Could the harmonic balancer/ crank pulley be the culprit? Bad tensioner? Completely other item?

Ac is off. :spin:

Thanks!

So I was looking for someone to empty my AC system so I can change the condenser but as I was going to the maintenance book it says not to drive without the gas in the AC system or else it may pull a code and then I will also have to change the AC pump?

I assume this is accurate? What have others done?

So I fixed the boost leak at the coupler and the issue was still there. I had hesitation and misfire P0304 with a PFFFF code.

 

 

I have removed the plugs and checked the gaps (~0.029). I also swapped the coils between 2 and 4. Still the same problem and misfire P0304, PFFFF, and PFFFE.

 

 

I assume that swapping the coil ruled out the pack. The issue is still only present with WOT. So finally, should I swap the plugs and see if it follows or do I have a bigger problem? I did not specifically inspect the #4 plug but did not see any damage to it when I went through all of them yesterday.

I just had the ," I had hesitation and misfire P0304 with a PFFFF code" and it was the coil pak, I just bought one and swapped in the new one. I didn't swap 2 and 4 since considering it a 10 year old car I assume that number 2 may not be in the best shape, that being said where I live they salt the road in the winter, just a thought

Just wanted to give an update, so I did a smoke test and the TMIC to throttle body hose was leaking a little, tried to put the perrin silicone and scrapped that one (second one, for me it doesn't fit with the Racer X TMIC, I knw others have succeeded somehow) so I just put back the OEM

So finally I did another pull and got the P0304 cylinder 4 misfire this was the first time I got a code and the Christmas lights, changed the coil pack on number 4 ... zing brand new car boost back and smile on my face .... I think I will change the other 3 as a maintenance item... case closed

Strange, I wonder if you have a leak like I did, and the oil or whatever is, is wicking upward and onto the condenser as well from the airflow. AC would still work fine.

Yes, from another angle looks exactly like that.

Definitely a good idea to have a real AC leak test done with sniffing equipment.

 

 

 

The stain looks like a small pinhole or crack leak in the AC that would grow over time. A pressure test won't reveal much if it's a small hole. Some soap water might, but if it's in an enclosed are it's not possible to see any bubbles.

 

 

The leak might also depend on temperature and pressure so it might only occur when the AC is running at the moment.

I had seen that bubble test, I think I will give it a go, I didn't want to remove my grill as I had just removed it to wrap it but guess I have no choice but to remove so I can get some access.

Sounds similar to what I wemt through recently. Mine was a fuel cut due to overboosting because the wastegate actuator line had gotten loose.

 

Yes an accessport can help if this is the case, just check your peak boost vs your target boost.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-cut-5k-ish-rpm-overboosti-283344.html

So did a data log for the first time. I am not over boosting. I am not hitting my target boost I just don't how close to target should I be to be considered normal. I understand outside temp plays into this but not sure to what degree

Is your AC blowing cold?

 

If it is, that stain is NOT from your condenser, or any part of your AC system.

 

Any AC leak that throws out that much compressor oil will also evacuate all your refrigerant, and your AC will not be blowing cold.

Yes AC is blowing cold

Sounds similar to what I wemt through recently. Mine was a fuel cut due to overboosting because the wastegate actuator line had gotten loose.

 

Yes an accessport can help if this is the case, just check your peak boost vs your target boost.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-cut-5k-ish-rpm-overboosti-283344.html

Thanks, I will log some data and if I see anything funny.

Hello Folks

So this issues is beyond anything I know.

I was driving on the highway in 3rd gear and when I put the power down I felt a hesitation that I never felt before, was expecting the usual constant power delivery.

I tried to replicate and it seems to happen in 3rd gear when I put the power down above 4k RPM I am getting what I will call a backfire and a loss of torque. Not sure if I am explaining this right. I back off the gas the second I feel this as it is definitely not normal.

No lights come up. Would using the access port give me any signs? I think I will bring it in to many local show but was curious to pick your knowledge of this.

Thanks & Keep Safe!!!!