valkrie hunter

7 hours ago, Scubaboo said:

Where are your wheels though?

In the garage while the car was getting fiberglass work done. They will be back on soon, after paint

Quarterly Update

Things I have acquired/need to do:

• Rowen Bumper was sent to the shop, bumper was modified to fit USDM body. This makes it 1 of 1 in the US at this very moment... 13 years after the 2010 legacy was introduced. Go figures.
• Racebred Wheel Spats (need to install)
• Reclear trunk spoiler & license plate frame (carbon is amazing with sun damange...)

Wow.. been a few years since the S-Craft rear lip was added to car. I had sold it to a fellow fifth gen legacy owner... with better plans for the rear.

Update: Aug 18, 2023

Recently just installed a 2008-2014 Subaru WRX/STI Chassis Mount splitter. Had some modifications.. But worked out really well! (Also adding this to my build thread)

3) The brackets sit about 1-1.5" rearward compared to a WRX/STI. So you may need to refill the holes to push the splitter forward.

That engine clean up is definitely on the list of things I need to do...

Recently just installed a 2008-2014 Subaru WRX/STI Chassis Mount splitter. Had some modifications.. But worked out really well! (Also adding this to my build thread)

3) The brackets sit about 1-1.5" rearward compared to a WRX/STI. So you may need to refill the holes to push the splitter forward.

Gloomy days in california.

So.. I can finally join the rolling shot thread!

After some massaging and painting the parts... it's 95% done! Just need to finalize the tow hook cover.

To bridge the gap on the side of the bumper, I added foam so that the VHB can touch the bumper.

I have also cut a pair of Crosstrek/GR STI rear reflectors to fit inside the bumper. I added foam & silicone adhesive to glue it in place.

How it looks so far:

I've had to replace mine once already, and it cracks within 1-2 years in California weather. I might replace it again, but wrap it with vinyl before installing.

If I remember correctly, you might need a tool/screw driver (with painter tape wrapped around it) to release the clips. I did break one of them, so it might be a good idea to have a few spare just in case. Let me see if I can find the PN.

Per request, I should document what my process was like to get the rear half lip fitted to our USDM bumpers.

Backstory: Since the JDM bumper has smaller fender "flares", the bumper design is almost a straight line. However, our bumper has a bulge which causes a gap to occur on the sides as shown below. Everything else fits like a glove (minus the areas I had to trim).

What I had to trim:

Outside of cutting, the Gap has to be filled. I used painters tape to create a surface to add fiberglass to the lip.

Updated 4/20

Added the custom bumper back onto the car a few weeks ago with a new lip from IKON. Wanted to add some depth to the front instead of the V-Limited baby lip.

For the rear, I am working on fiberglassing the S-Craft Rear Half lip so it fits the USDM bumpers. The USDM fenders are wider, thus causing a gap between the lip and the bumper.

I agree, I think you can actually get by with 25mm without rolling fenders (depending how low you are) It's much closer to the fender, without it looking too sunk.

This was slightly lowered on stock suspension with Eibach Springs. No change to fenders

Swapped in 13-14 headlights for my 11 factory lights. Saved me a polish and I think I prefer the look. ��

 

 

Car looks amazing and that grille is amazing where did you source that material?

Thanks! The grille mesh is taken from a Q50 Infinity; the bezel is a standard OEM style Grille.

After a failed attempt of my own last summer (to the point that I needed to re-order a piece), I had a professional vinyl shop install my yellow Lamin-x headlight covers. Even the vinyl guy commented how difficult the Lamin-x was to work with on our lights, made me feel a bit better about my failed attempt. Really enjoying the look of the yellow on silver.

 

 

 

Got a couple things back from paint as well, one of which being the new Bayson R lip I've had stashed away for the last year. Always wanted to do a body color Bayson lip, and I've gotta say, I'm very happy with the outcome. Also nice to have a lip that's in one piece again, my old lip got yanked off back in thanks to a careless snowplow back in the winter of 2018, and has since been slowly loosing pieces until I finally trimmed off the middle so it looked somewhat even. Also, note to self: NEVER ATTACH A LIP WITH BOLTS AND NUTS. I did this when I re-attached the lip in 2018, and despite using "corrosion resistant" hardware, every single one of them had to be dremelled off, making this swap take way longer than it should have.

 

And finally, the addition of strategically placed Motul stickers in tandem with the yellow lights to lightly cosplay the GT300 car. The GT300 car's bumper is pretty radically different shape than the road car, so I kind of had to compromise on placement lol. I'm comfortable with these because I actually run Motul in my car, hopefully someday I get Advan wheels so I can run that sticker too.

 

YES YES YES!!! So glad you got this done!

Gave her a good cleaning and put the bumper back on.

Figured I'd show my most recent addition.

S-Craft Rear Half Lip

Really coming up in the way of cool parts this year. Just landed a set of carbon Ganador Aero Super Mirrors with LED blinker. There is less than 5 sets of sets of Ganadors in circulation for 5th gen Legacy, and the entire line of Ganador Super Mirrors have been discontinued, so I'm over the moon to have landed a set. And before anyone says anything, yes I'm aware Ganadors have bad visibility, but recently Prova started producing Ganador-specific convex mirror glass similar to what they make for other Subarus, which will drastically increase the visibility of these. Also, these just scream to the 00's tuner sensibilities that I've tried to keep up with modifying my car.

 

One extra point is that they will make the installation simpler compared to the JDM mirrors, as only the blinker will need to be wired and auto-fold/heating/etc isn't something I need to worry about.

 

 

 

WOW!! Lucky! That means 2 or 3 of the 5 Ganador mirrors are now in US? Kind of biting myself for not getting a set, but JDM mirror will work for now.

Thanks to Jerry, he was able to confirm connectors for SAP (Special Appearance) Mirrors. We believe the plug is the same for JDM models, you would need to add wires through the door grommet for the turn signal (2 wires per side). It would either need to be T-Tapped, or connected somehow.

Note: I would de-pin and re-pin the connector for the cleanest setup.

Wiring:

Turn Signal Wires (Mirror Side)

• Driver: Green (+) (Positive) | White (-) (Negative)
  
• Passenger: White (+) (Positive) | Green (-) (Negative)
  

Jerry's Photos of SAP Mirror connector

Searched through the forums and didn't find a dedicated post for this. I have compiled a bunch of images in my build thread, but figured I should separate it out for those searching for it.

Parts List:

• JDM Mirror (Or SAP/Ebay Mirror with turn signals only, No Power Folding)
  
  • PN: TBD
    

   

• Fog light Switch (if OEM option not installed)
  
  • PN: H4510AJ000
    

   

Tools:

• Flat head screwdriver (to help remove caps for door panel)
  
• Phillips screwdriver
  
• 10mm
  
• Wire (USDM cars do not come with turn signal wires, or power folding, #Gauge is what I used)
  
• Wire Cutters
  
• Soldering Iron or Connectors
  
• Multi-Meter
  
• Coat Hanger
  
• Heat Shrink
  
• Zip Ties
  

Procedure:

1) Remove door panel (2 screws)+ Mirror cap to expose hardware and plugs for mirror

2) Unbolt Factory Mirror by removing (3 Bolts)

3) Bolt JDM (SAP) Mirror in place of factory mirror

To add Turn Signal/Power Folding Function to Mirrors

1) You will need to feed wires through the wire loom/grommet.

Note: There are multiple ways to do it, but this is the CLEANEST and OEM like.

• Unplug the Door harness from the footwell area as circled. Pull the Grommet through the sheet metal door (there's a plastic locking cap on the fender side that needs to be removed; it has 3 prongs). It is easy to remove the door bar to gain some more access, but not needed.
  

2) Feed 2 wires (for turn signal) or 4 wires (for turn signal + power folding, if avail) through the grommet using clothes hanger. It is easier to keep the grommet straight, run the hanger through, then pull wires out. I made sure to label the wires I wanted to designate as turn signal and power folding.

3) At this point, you can run the wires back into the door and back into the footwell for the rest of the wiring.

4) The JDM mirror comes with a different mirror connector, so I de-pinned the USDM mirror connector and swapped the JDM connector to USDM. This is NOT necessary, but cleans up the build. Whatever you do, just connect the identical wires together, which leave 4 wires untouched (for turn signal and power folding). I started adding new connectors (4x Molex connector that I salvaged from computer parts).

Per Sam Wong: Wiring harness is as followed

Mirror Adjustment (Mirror Side)

• Blue - mirror (switch polarity between either purple or red)
  
• Purple - negative down - positive up
  
• Red - negative right - positive left
  
• Black/black - heater (defrost)
  

Turn Signal Wires (Mirror Side)

• Driver: Green (+) (Positive) | White (-) (Negative)
  
• Passenger: White (+) (Positive) | Green (-) (Negative)
  

Power Folding Wires (Mirror Side)

• Brown/Grey - fold in/out (switch polarity)
  
• Brown - Positive(+), Grey - Negative(-): Close Mirror (Folds in)
  
• Grey - Positive(+), Brown - Negative(-): Open Mirror (Folds out)
  

For Turn Signal wiring

5) On the Chassis Side, the turn signals can be tapped into the wire harness in the footwell. The following colors are what to look for:

• Driver Side: Solid Blue Wire for Positive (+); ground (-) to chassis
  
• Passenger: Red with Green Stripe Wire for Positive (+); ground(-) to chassis
  

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

For Power Folding Function

Note:

IMPORTANT!: Make sure the fog lights are off (open position) if you want to relocate the fog light switch to the turn signal stalk.

6) Pull the lower dash panel to gain access to the factory -OEM optional fog switch, if not purchase. PN: TBD

7) Depin the Fog Light wire (Green / Red) [Follow the important note at the beginning. Make sure the Fog is turned off if you want to relocate the fog light switch!]

• I am not responsible if something happens to your car. Make sure you measure with a multi-meter before connecting anything.
  

8) The following wires in the fog light switch is used to power the folding feature:

• Solid Blue (Positive) | Solid White (Negative) (Paired together)
  
• Blue/Red (Positive) | Black/White (Negative) (Paired together)
  

8) Run newly created power folding wires back to the wires the wires from the mirror.

• Driver side was fairly simple; however, passenger side require running the wires across the vehicle.
  

9) Attach wires to fog light module and test!