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valkrie hunter

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Everything posted by valkrie hunter

  1. In the garage while the car was getting fiberglass work done. They will be back on soon, after paint
  2. Quarterly Update Things I have acquired/need to do: Rowen Bumper was sent to the shop, bumper was modified to fit USDM body. This makes it 1 of 1 in the US at this very moment... 13 years after the 2010 legacy was introduced. Go figures. Racebred Wheel Spats (need to install) Reclear trunk spoiler & license plate frame (carbon is amazing with sun damange...)
  3. Wow.. been a few years since the S-Craft rear lip was added to car. I had sold it to a fellow fifth gen legacy owner... with better plans for the rear. Update: Aug 18, 2023 Recently just installed a 2008-2014 Subaru WRX/STI Chassis Mount splitter. Had some modifications.. But worked out really well! (Also adding this to my build thread) 1) Depending on the brackets... The radiator support flange needs to be bent. 2) The spacing between chassis mounts are a little wider, so you may need spacers (I estimate a few washers should be ok) 3) The brackets sit about 1-1.5" rearward compared to a WRX/STI. So you may need to refill the holes to push the splitter forward.
  4. That engine clean up is definitely on the list of things I need to do... Recently just installed a 2008-2014 Subaru WRX/STI Chassis Mount splitter. Had some modifications.. But worked out really well! (Also adding this to my build thread) 1) Depending on the brackets... The radiator support flange needs to be bent. 2) The spacing between chassis mounts are a little wider, so you may need spacers (I estimate a few washers should be ok) 3) The brackets sit about 1-1.5" rearward compared to a WRX/STI. So you may need to refill the holes to push the splitter forward.
  5. After some massaging and painting the parts... it's 95% done! Just need to finalize the tow hook cover. To bridge the gap on the side of the bumper, I added foam so that the VHB can touch the bumper. I have also cut a pair of Crosstrek/GR STI rear reflectors to fit inside the bumper. I added foam & silicone adhesive to glue it in place. How it looks so far:
  6. I've had to replace mine once already, and it cracks within 1-2 years in California weather. I might replace it again, but wrap it with vinyl before installing. If I remember correctly, you might need a tool/screw driver (with painter tape wrapped around it) to release the clips. I did break one of them, so it might be a good idea to have a few spare just in case. Let me see if I can find the PN.
  7. Dang bringing back a thread from 2019. Wonder what happened afterwards.
  8. Per request, I should document what my process was like to get the rear half lip fitted to our USDM bumpers. Backstory: Since the JDM bumper has smaller fender "flares", the bumper design is almost a straight line. However, our bumper has a bulge which causes a gap to occur on the sides as shown below. Everything else fits like a glove (minus the areas I had to trim). What I had to trim: Outside of cutting, the Gap has to be filled. I used painters tape to create a surface to add fiberglass to the lip.
  9. Updated 4/20 Added the custom bumper back onto the car a few weeks ago with a new lip from IKON. Wanted to add some depth to the front instead of the V-Limited baby lip. For the rear, I am working on fiberglassing the S-Craft Rear Half lip so it fits the USDM bumpers. The USDM fenders are wider, thus causing a gap between the lip and the bumper.
  10. I agree, I think you can actually get by with 25mm without rolling fenders (depending how low you are) It's much closer to the fender, without it looking too sunk. This was slightly lowered on stock suspension with Eibach Springs. No change to fenders
  11. Thanks! The grille mesh is taken from a Q50 Infinity; the bezel is a standard OEM style Grille. YES YES YES!!! So glad you got this done!
  12. Damn, small changes really waken these motors. Definitely something to do in the future for me!
  13. I added a resistor to the system to trick the load. But one of the resistor gets really got. Trying to find an alternative to trick the Canbus system
  14. Figured I'd show my most recent addition. S-Craft Rear Half Lip
  15. Wow that look awesome! Welcome to the forums!
  16. WOW!! Lucky! That means 2 or 3 of the 5 Ganador mirrors are now in US? Kind of biting myself for not getting a set, but JDM mirror will work for now.
  17. Are you separating the inner pin first or hit it as a whole? I think I was able to separate it first, before pulling the rest of the pin out.
  18. Thanks to Jerry, he was able to confirm connectors for SAP (Special Appearance) Mirrors. We believe the plug is the same for JDM models, you would need to add wires through the door grommet for the turn signal (2 wires per side). It would either need to be T-Tapped, or connected somehow. Note: I would de-pin and re-pin the connector for the cleanest setup. Wiring: Turn Signal Wires (Mirror Side) Driver: Green (+) (Positive) | White (-) (Negative) Passenger: White (+) (Positive) | Green (-) (Negative) Jerry's Photos of SAP Mirror connector
  19. Searched through the forums and didn't find a dedicated post for this. I have compiled a bunch of images in my build thread, but figured I should separate it out for those searching for it. Parts List: JDM Mirror (Or SAP/Ebay Mirror with turn signals only, No Power Folding) PN: TBD Fog light Switch (if OEM option not installed) PN: H4510AJ000 Tools: Flat head screwdriver (to help remove caps for door panel) Phillips screwdriver 10mm Wire (USDM cars do not come with turn signal wires, or power folding, #Gauge is what I used) Wire Cutters Soldering Iron or Connectors Multi-Meter Coat Hanger Heat Shrink Zip Ties Procedure: 1) Remove door panel (2 screws)+ Mirror cap to expose hardware and plugs for mirror 2) Unbolt Factory Mirror by removing (3 Bolts) 3) Bolt JDM (SAP) Mirror in place of factory mirror To add Turn Signal/Power Folding Function to Mirrors 1) You will need to feed wires through the wire loom/grommet. Note: There are multiple ways to do it, but this is the CLEANEST and OEM like. Unplug the Door harness from the footwell area as circled. Pull the Grommet through the sheet metal door (there's a plastic locking cap on the fender side that needs to be removed; it has 3 prongs). It is easy to remove the door bar to gain some more access, but not needed. 2) Feed 2 wires (for turn signal) or 4 wires (for turn signal + power folding, if avail) through the grommet using clothes hanger. It is easier to keep the grommet straight, run the hanger through, then pull wires out. I made sure to label the wires I wanted to designate as turn signal and power folding. 3) At this point, you can run the wires back into the door and back into the footwell for the rest of the wiring. 4) The JDM mirror comes with a different mirror connector, so I de-pinned the USDM mirror connector and swapped the JDM connector to USDM. This is NOT necessary, but cleans up the build. Whatever you do, just connect the identical wires together, which leave 4 wires untouched (for turn signal and power folding). I started adding new connectors (4x Molex connector that I salvaged from computer parts). Per Sam Wong: Wiring harness is as followed Mirror Adjustment (Mirror Side) Blue - mirror (switch polarity between either purple or red) Purple - negative down - positive up Red - negative right - positive left Black/black - heater (defrost) Turn Signal Wires (Mirror Side) Driver: Green (+) (Positive) | White (-) (Negative) Passenger: White (+) (Positive) | Green (-) (Negative) Power Folding Wires (Mirror Side) Brown/Grey - fold in/out (switch polarity) Brown - Positive(+), Grey - Negative(-): Close Mirror (Folds in) Grey - Positive(+), Brown - Negative(-): Open Mirror (Folds out) For Turn Signal wiring 5) On the Chassis Side, the turn signals can be tapped into the wire harness in the footwell. The following colors are what to look for: Driver Side: Solid Blue Wire for Positive (+); ground (-) to chassis Passenger: Red with Green Stripe Wire for Positive (+); ground(-) to chassis Driver Side: Passenger Side: For Power Folding Function Note: IMPORTANT!: Make sure the fog lights are off (open position) if you want to relocate the fog light switch to the turn signal stalk. 6) Pull the lower dash panel to gain access to the factory -OEM optional fog switch, if not purchase. PN: TBD 7) Depin the Fog Light wire (Green / Red) [Follow the important note at the beginning. Make sure the Fog is turned off if you want to relocate the fog light switch!] I am not responsible if something happens to your car. Make sure you measure with a multi-meter before connecting anything. 8) The following wires in the fog light switch is used to power the folding feature: Solid Blue (Positive) | Solid White (Negative) (Paired together) Blue/Red (Positive) | Black/White (Negative) (Paired together) 8) Run newly created power folding wires back to the wires the wires from the mirror. Driver side was fairly simple; however, passenger side require running the wires across the vehicle. 9) Attach wires to fog light module and test!
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