BL5BO

If I have a remote starter, do I necessarily need to do anything with the immobilizer chip? I can't remember if I gave up a key or not when they installed it. I must have for the engine to start without a key in the ignition, correct?

Sorry it so long to reply, but i honestly dont know how it works with remote start All i know is that they need all keys present when they program them.

What is the purpose of getting the non-flip keys cut? Aren't we just using those for the guts (remote and immobilizer). Most of us will have to pay a bit for each key, so minimizing the #of cuts helps...

The only purpose i get them cut, is so you can test and start the car immediately to ensure the immobilizer chip was programmed correctly. This way when you transfer the chip you know for sure it works.

OR, you could transfer the blank chip and programmed remote over to the flip key shell first, and just have them cut and program the keys right there, that would save some $$

Why would you need to sacrifice a key to get the transponder? The transponder should either be built into the key you want converted or on a small black housing by the bottom of the original key.

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

This method saves the hassle of hacking up one of your original keys and decreases the chance of damaging the immobilizer chip.

A "blank" immobilizer chip comes with the AIO Remote Transmitter Key (Non-Flip) that is easily visible and accessible (one tiny screw) so you can cut out the immobilizer chip safely and not damage the chip.

The Flip Key requires the "Conversion" because the Flip Key Shell does not have a built-in immobilizer chip. It has a slot where the chip fits perfectly into, but it is literally a blank shell with a blank key blade, that needs the gut components of the AIO (Programmed Remote Transmitter and Programmed Immobilizer Chip) to function.

I need these in my life. I almost wish I could just ship you one of my keys to get this done....because I'm lazy

I could do them! Ship me your spare key, and ill get however you need made done

I have gotten a few PM's from members asking me about my flip key mod, so id figure i try and contribute to this helpful community! Before we start you can actually program up to 3 keys at once i believe and pay one time fee of $70. All keys getting programmed need to be at the dealer at once.

So i had my original valet key, then two modded flip keys all reprogrammed to my car.

Parts Required:

1.) $34 Remote Transmitter AIO Key FOB EBAY (Blade Style: Non-Laser Cut)

FCC ID: CWTWBU766

2.) $15 Subaru Flip Key Shell Conversion Kit EBAY (Blade Type: Non-Laser Cut)

3.)KrazyGlue

4.)Exacto-Knife/Precision Blade

5.) #1 Philips Screw Driver

6.) Current OEM Subaru Legacy Key

Step 1: (AIO Key Blank) Program Remote Transmitter

First thing you want to do is program your remote transmitter and make sure it locks/unlocks the car. Trunk should work as well. Each of these blank keys contain a blank immobilizer chip, and remote transmitter.

VIDEO! To program the Remote Transmitter, i used this video:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=212129&stc=1&d=1436225141

Step 2: Cutting Keys

Get ALL Key Blades Cut! So if youre doing a single key, get the AIO key cut AND the empty flip key cut. If youre doing 2 remotes, then you will do 2 flip key blanks and 2 AIO Blanks.

Option 1: Local Locksmith Cut (FREE)

I went to a local locksmith and they actually cut my keys for FREE! Other locksmiths may vary, but i got lucky. So just call around your local area and ask!

Option 2: Dealer Cut

Not sure what the price goes for the dealer to cut, but either way you have to have them programmed at the dealer anyways.

Once keys are cut, test them and make sure you can lock/unlock car, put in ignition turn to ON position. If these all work, we are ready for step 3!

Step 3: Programming Keys (Subaru Dealership) $70

Now that the keys are cut, and the remotes work, its time to program the keys! Make sure to have ALL keys present, when programming. Like stated before, i did TWO Flip key mods, so upon programming, i had my Valet Subaru Key, (2) AIO Key FOB w/Remote Transmitters (The Flip Key blanks can stay home for now). Once the keys have been programmed, use the AIO Newly programmed key to test and start the car. Then drive home with it, to make sure it works with no problems! Once you get home, you are ready to transfer the Remote and Immobilizer Chip to the empty Flip Shell!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=212130&stc=1&d=1436225141

Step 4: Transferring Remote and Immobilizer Chip from AIO Remote to Flip Key

This is the last step! Just be very careful when cutting the immobilizer chip out! If this gets damaged the car will not start. I used this video to help with the transfer

VIDEO! Convert to Flip Shell Housing

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=212131&stc=1&d=1436225141

And thats it! 4 Simple Steps! Hope this helps everyone! Happy modding!

optimistic my respons bpv will fit without issue, but also hope to fit-up the hks ssqv i've had in the parts locker for over 8 years. Always too tall/big for the perrin.

love my hks!

What BPV you guys running with the Grimmspeed??

 

I got a Perrin, and the vac line out the top is hitting M/C hard line. I've tried rotating the valve but the other side is getting pinched.

Using the HKS SQV4 BOV. Had to do some minor modifications to get it to fit, but she's working reaaaaal nice now

Modifications to fit:

1) HKS Rubber Hose.

Had to cut about 1" off supplied HKS Rubber Hose (Connects from Intercooler to BOV Unit) so that the rubber hose is coming straight out.

2)Modifying HKS Mounting Bracket to clear Hood.

Once i had everything installed, i noticed the hood wasnt shutting as easily as it normally did. So, i just took a hammer and gave 4 or 5 really good hits to bend the bracket down slightly. Once i did that, the shuts perfectly like before

Looks good!

I installed the HKS BOV and had to cut about an 1" off the rubber hose (comes with HKS kit) from end tank to BOV to fit. Also had to bend the metal bracket (comes with HKS kit) slightly to clear the oem hood, so it shuts without hitting.

Speaking of brackets there was another one on my engine that had two wire clips attached to it. I had to disconnect the clips and remove the OEM bracket so I could put the bracket for the TMIC in place of it. Does anybody's car have this bracket or is that one of the things forgotten in the instructions when installing in a Legacy GT? Either way I figured it out and got it in. I'm pretty pleased with this. I just wish the Legacy specific instructions / video would have happened before I installed this.

I have an 06 LGT 5EAT, and I have these two wires connected to the front metal bracket as well. I installed the GS bracket over top of the oem bracket but now the Throttle body hose is difficult to wrap. What did you end up doing to get it to fit?