Subadozer

With one or a few exceptions, I don't believe anyone is running 15K OCIs (w/AMSOIL or another oil).

 

If the premise is that it only costs $51.00 for 5 quarts of AMSOIL Signature Series, for 11,318 miles, then, in reality, the price should be $154.00 for 3.02 changes @ a Subaru-prescribed 3750 mile OCI. Even running a 5,680 OCI, that still $102.00.

Yes, I think here is at least one place the Amsoil bias enters in here and there's nothing a 3rd party can do to fix that. At least there's full disclosure on the apples to oranges comparison.

When I switched to the European Formula from Amsoil OEM (which I was getting cheaper than Rotella T6) I wanted to extend beyond the 3,750 OCI I had been following but refused to do so without UOA's. I went just under and just over 8,000 on the 2 changes before switching to their Signature Series, which is the same price (pay $20 a year and you get wholesale prices on everything, gallons of the SS/European are $30.65). My first UOA of the SS plus over-advance CEL's about the same time is what resulted in my long-awaited installation of my BNR 16g, IP&T oil line, etc. I'll be very curious to see the UOA upcoming in about 1k miles, now that I don't have a VF-40 with a stuck waste gate and the turbine wearing away at the housing.

If I can get my OCI up to a consistent 8-10,000 confirmed by UOA then I will be satisfied.

Sorry for asking this question but what oil would you recommend now that I'm installing a 16G TDO5 BNR turbo with the Imfamous oil line.

Because it's on the Amsoil site you might find this report on testing of 10 different oils to be biased but the testing was done by a "3rd party" lab. I found it interesting none the less because of what it showed about the various aspects of synthetic oil.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

I've only got about 4,000 miles on my 16g so am no help on the longevity issue. However the kind of customer service that Bryan provides is top notch and to me that is worth a lot.

Fit is not all that much different than many aftermarket turbos. Most come with some type of quirk to work around. It is learning the quirks and being able to accurately estimate time and cost that matters to me (as a shop owner). The oem "rebuilds" were almost too easy to install. Nothing fits like OEM.

It's probably one of those things that there are so many things to line up that a fraction of a degree off on something dominoes to other alignments, which might also be really difficult to get 100% spot-on. I know Bryan disliked the hassles of the core system but I wonder if he's willing to still do rebuilds if the price is right (...he says with an available core for sale ). I suspect one of the advantages of the new castings is that his milling time is reduced or eliminated.

I'm in for the 16g, I just have to finish my supporting mods and figure out how to pay for the dang thing without pissing off the fiancee:lol:

I looked at the 16g as reliability insurance and the upgrade feature was icing on the cake. I'm just thankful I got the old one out before it caused serious damage.

Glad you guys are liking my new products! I am happy to get rid of that damned core program .

 

Bryan@BNR

I'm sure it's much better for all involved and I'm truly glad that you've been so successful to be able to do this. Unfortunately I waited too long to get my rebuilt version in and now the bottom has dropped out of the used VF-40 market.

was just at the Oneonta dealership getting my oil changed.

The GRP has been gone for a few weeks. Probably went to auction. No chance of seeing you today as I'm down in VA for work. Although the car's still up home so there's a chance you could see that.

I have finished the install of (Infamous') IP&T's Turbo Oil Supply Line Filter Kit on my '10 LGT w/BNR TD05H/20g. This kit was developed for the 4th Gens, so I had to change up a few things, from the standard kit, to adapt it to the 5th Gen turbo setup

From the looks of your pictures there's been some significant design changes between the 4th and 5th gen as relates to the accessibility of some of the turbo fittings such as the oil return line. Even though not applicable to my situation I found your information interesting and I'm sure the 5th gen folks will find it very helpful.

$2500 for diagnose, new turbo, new banjo filter, new intake (they said it needed it for some reason, but I trust them), engine flush, warranty, and rental car.

 

It's alot. But I didn't have the time or another car to use or a garage with tools. Makes me mad cause I know I could have gotten a better turbo (16g) with upgraded oil lines for easily half the cost. /

I just finished doing mine. Had over-advance CEL's and dealer wanted $1,000 +/- $200 depending on if they could replace the banjo bolt w/o removing the turbo. That was for 2 new OCV's and replacement of the d/s AVCS filtered banjo and the turbo banjo. I didn't want to put this on a CC and didn't have the money so tore into it since I had the IP&T oil line sitting in a drawer.

I was so close to the turbo I decided I better drop the DP and check it and it was bad enough that I decided it was time to install the 16g and the STi UP that have been on my shelf for 2 years.

Hope it makes you feel better, it took me about 6 partial days to finally get it all back together and then messing around with the results of a coolant leak and forgetting to fully tighten the fittings onto the new in-line oil filter. I figured I saved +/- $2k and you've confirmed that.

After reading how this is done and watching a video on Youtube, I think I'm going to go at this job from under the car instead.

This is what I thought looked better but was convinced by others to go from the top. I was also doing the PS rocker cover so that side was easy. I was told by a friend who works at the local dealership that their techs do the plugs from below. Of course it helps to have a lift.

Is there anywhere else besides the banjo filter that the oil line may get plugged up at?

There's at least one other banjo bolt with a filter but I don't know if this would starve the turbo for oil if it gets plugged. With my recent experience with an over advance CEL I'm wondering if a failed OCV could also result in a failed turbo. Other's more knowledgeable than I will have to confirm or deny these possibilities but I thought it would give you something to research in the mean time.

The following instructions are for Windows 7 x64 machines:

4. Finishing going through the installation, accepting all defaults.

 

5. Plug in the Vag-Com cable

Should this be done in the car or is it something that works just plugging the cable into the computer in the house. My guess it the former but it's so cold out I am looking to minimize the amount of time I have to spend outside by doing as much setup as I can inside.

I'm up in oneonta believe to be only lgt up here. Actually go to school at SUNY oneonta. Just went to five star and had a clutch put in a month ago

I'll have to keep a lookout for you when I'm in town. You're right, LGT's seem to be pretty rare in this area. I was really surprised to see the '05 GRP OBXT there at Five Star. My friend who works there says it's going to auction.

EEK! I've only had my LGT for about 2 years and it has about 120k on it now. Maybe I really will just be proactive and do all of them once finances allow. These walkthroughs are tremendously helpful, however, the job still surely took time and energy.

Never hurts to be proactive and pick the time that's convenient for you to do repairs rather than waiting and letting the car dictate. Apparently the good thing with these wheel bearings is that the failure is gradual and gives warning. In fact I had mine in to the dealer and had them check twice for what I thought was a failing front bearing and they didn't diagnose it until the 3rd time.

General question I'll pose to ya'll about wheel bearing replacement:

 

If I have one that fails (e.g. right rear), should I replace both on that end? I just did one the other day due to grinding and wasn't sure if it was typical for the other to fail at or around the same time.

The first to go on my car were both rears at the same time. Then a few months later the front DS needed doing. I'm just waiting for the whine to start on the front PS. I wimped out and have had the dealer do mine. I figure I'm fortunate to have gotten over 150,000 out of the fronts.

GRP Outback XT

Franklin, Delaware County, NY (near Oneonta)

4 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug LFR7AIX # 2309 : Amazon.com : Automotive

are these the correct plugs to buy? i am new to this bought the car at 90k but i want to change the plugs cause im getting crap MPG and who knows if the last owner changed it...

These plugs are one step colder in rating than the OE plugs. Some people do use them. When I did mine a year ago I considered these but if you are stock and don't drive aggressively on a somewhat regular occasion you probably want the OE ones.

Up here in upstate NY I had both rears done at the local dealer for $473.60 plus tax. That's less than $100 each for labor. To me it was worth it. I would guess that the fronts are more complicated and your dealer's labor rate might be higher. My understanding is that if it comes apart easily it's a pretty straightforward job. Add troubles and it becomes worth it to have the dealer hassle with it. Can you take it in for diagnosis and get it done on the same day? That's how I did mine.

So I have a front wheel bearing going bad. Called SOA and they gave me a record locator number and said they'd probably help me on "good will". Pushing a little harder, "WILL they help me ?" the guy said they would probably cover it partially. But I have to make an app't with dealer to confirm the diagnosis and get a quote. Over the phone, dealer said about $450; I said "well, dealer invoice on hub is $150 or so, how much labor can it be ?" And they said 3 hours; seems pretty crazy, given how easy the job sounds in the writeups here.

 

So I'm thinking I get the part from one of our favorite discount OEM parts places for $130 or so, do it myself, and I probably spend a lot less that what I'll end up paying the dealer - say, if SOA picks up 50% of the quoted $450 cost. Plus I avoid the aggravation of dealing with the dealer twice - once for the diagnosis and quote, once for the repair - and dealing with the SOA folks as well. Make sense ?

Most on here would recommend OEM spec plugs (NGK SILF6RA). They're a quality plug that's gapped correctly for our boosted engine and they'll last 60k+.

 

I got mine from Mike at Infamous.

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-659/Subaru-NGK-Iridium-Spark/Detail

I went with the OEM plugs. They are such a pain to change that it wasn't worth it to me, for whatever savings might have been realized, to chance having them not work as well or to need to change them before another 60,000 miles.

I am new here, lack of posts noted. Anyways I have a 2010 Legacy that was curbbed this weeked and the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. In North Jersey and was quoted $550 to do the job.

If you were able to drive the car it would almost be worth driving up to near where I live to have it done. I paid less than that to have both my 4th gen rears done. I figured it was about $100 each in labor. Maybe the front on a 5th gen is a lot more complicated.