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boostsr20

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Posts posted by boostsr20

  1. Same here on Windows 8. Get the code 10 failure notice and can't get it to connect.

     

    Got my Amazon VAG COM cable in the mail today, was eager to try it out and check up on my fuel trims. Been banging my head against the wall for hours, at this point that may be due in part to sleep deprivation. I can get the cable to show up in the device manager and have installed latest FTDI driver, I can't get the cable to connect in Learning View or RomRaider. All the definitions are updated in RR. I've backed the baud rate down to 4800.

     

    I've also tried the Openport 1.3 and 2.0 drivers that come with EcuFlash, no luck.

     

    At this point I'm thinking that it may be my laptop...

  2. Yeah I read all 30 pages, i'm board. If it is any constellation guys I had the same prob in my Impreza in first (launch) second (hard acc) and sometimes third if it was a chilly or cold day. I replaced my struts all around (AGX/KYB) and the problem went away.

     

    AWESOME thread BTW, very informative.

     

    Thats what I was hoping for as a fix. I've got the window welded rear bushings and just put Bilstein HD's on. No dice, still does.

  3. Yes you just need access to the tables; A new TDC map or StreetTuner/ OpenECU will give you this.

     

    Yup, FWIW when I was running my vf40/18g with a deadbolt 15psi actuator I was peaking at 19 psi and holding 15psi at redline all with the WGDC tables zero'd out. When it goes back on the car I'll be using a stock actuator.

  4. I, too, Sean, am running stock struts, stock sways, and stock exhaust with H-techs... and I get the noise.

     

    It isn't any aftermarket issue.... other than the car is lowered.... and making more power (Stg. 2.5)

     

    At this point I don't think its a power level thing other than the weakening of bushings over time. I can produce this noise at near no throttle taking a right hander sharply from a stop and I've already filled the rear mounts and done the rallitek race trans mount.

     

    I think its a combination of mounts but here is a wierd finding. We all know that it lightens up as the car warms and get more miles per drive cycle. Well, since the temps dropped I notice that the noise is Much worse when I don't use the blok heater overnight. When I use the block heater the noise isn't as bad in the AM. I've done this little experiment numerous times. I'm guessing some of the bushing in the front are also aiding in the noise. Filling the rears and doing the trans mount definately helped but I think the motor mounts would halp some too. How hard is it to do the lowers with the engine in the car?

  5. need to do this....

     

    mine are REALLY bad

     

    I filled my rear mounts when it was about 65 degrees out. It took a good month for the window weld to stiffen up and make a nice difference. Reason being, I didn't use an insert of PVC like others did to my window weld was in there pretty thick. If I did it again, I'd probably use the inserts or do it when its nice and warm out.

  6. is it worth it?? didint feel like reading threw 26 pages, but sounds like its a good idae to get it if i can huh?

     

    If you didn't feel like reading this thread then its probably not for you. Tuning involvees a lot of reading and thought process and there aren't too many people willing to actively GIVE you map setups.

  7. does anyone actually know the limit of cam advance possible using the USDM cam setup? boostsr20 had 38 degrees of AVCS and I was under the impression (as were a lot of people in that enginuity thread) that ~30 was the max our cam gears could do

     

    Just to clarify, thats what TDC had the map set for. I didn't datalog it that high. I have it dropped back significanly now.

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