nadracer

Same here. I haven't been driving mine much. I take the train a lot or need drive my wife's 2015 Forester Touring; great car btw. The new 2.5/CVT are mated well.

Just went I thought the tune was over, Edward contacted me with some rapid fire updates. It was like he read my mind solving an irking issue I was having with power delivery at low rpm between 1400-2000. In 4-5 gear there was some power loss too.

Much of that is solved and then of course more timing and ignition on 92 octane. Still logging to refine the car if I can just get to actually have time drive it.

Seriously Edward needs a standing ovation

Hey JT_36R. Thus far its fairly consistent, I'm averaging 23mpg in mixed (mostly city) driving. All highway I typically see 29mpg now.

 

Keep in mind we are still working through the revisions and I'm flashing, resetting my ECU every couple of days... plus not driving it each day. So with each revision the ECU has a. limited time to re-learn (enough for the tune, perhaps not enough for stable MPG stats) b. is learning as the MPG stats build up (which I bet isn't helping them stay high).

Welcome to the dark side of the tune

stevenc1703 had already been drinking the (Xtreme Racing Tuning) 3.6R elixir long before I tried it

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4860233&postcount=11702

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4926464&postcount=929

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4861219&postcount=667

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4783845&postcount=1

 

On my 3rd revision with XRT and the car is responding very well to west_minist's changes!

 

v0 was already great - great idle, low/mid range torque, great transmission behavior, zero knock.

v1 improved throttle response, made it quick and crisp and added even more low/mid range torque, further timing and AVCS tweaks.

v2 (latest) is the icing on the cake. Rounded out all the changes from v0 and v1.

Smoothest power delivery, pulls great from low RPM all the way to 6.x K RPM

Nearly ideal throttle response and transmission behavior (I can't imagine it getting any better!).

 

The car responds to throttle input like a 2015 WRX in S or S# and the transmission works very similar to it too.

Holds gears, downshifts and upshifts very quickly.

 

More testing this weekend (v2a).

The only option I ever found was to use an older 3.0 H6 manifold. Yes, its aluminum but heat soak is small; port match it and ceramic coat it. If you're really worried about soak, you could have some phenolic spacers made up. Those should be cheap to make up; maybe $100. There are companies that can p&p your throttle body if you send it to them. Those services usually cost about $400.

I did a little digging and found out that the 08/09 3.0 uses the same intake manifold as the 11/12/13/14.

 

Both part numbers for Intake Manifold are: 14001AB880

 

The throttle bodies are different, of course, since one is driven by cable and the other one by wire.

 

The 3.0 was being offered a TB of up to 80mm.

 

I searched for any aftermarket Intake Manifold for the 3.0 and came up empty handed.

 

Let me know if you guys find anything.

Yes I did. Here is my post about it

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/port-polish-your-throttle-body-226084.html

I only worked on the intake side since I wasn't about to try and port match to a plastic intake manifold.

No I didn't take the pin out. That would mean drilling out the screws & breaking the electronics to pull the pin & valve. I'd have no way to reassemble without sending it out or a working car for a while without a spare. New OEM replacements are around $500 and the salvage yards had reasonable prices but each I talked to about getting a spare were.....well...dicks when I asked them for the condition of the part.

Nadracer, did you do any porting on your TB and if so, were you able to remove the pin that holds the butterfly valve in place?

Coolant goes through that line but you could always run a bypass around it.

Thanks nadracer.

 

I posted about that vacuum line as I did not see one on the wrx/sti TB.

The size of the throttle plate is stamped on the valve. Here is a photo of mine before my second pass of grinding and polishing.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4699_zps1a53675a.jpg

This link below from Boomba's has a different image angle of the body. The extra bolts must be hidden behind this weird sandwich construction. The WRX/STI have four bolts just like ours.

http://www.boombaracing.com/subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-75mm-dbw-throttle-body-bolt-on/

My feeling is since there is a 09 GT fitment (I'm like 90% sure) we have the same size TB casing so it might line up.

Anyway the on Boombas site price is sounds a lot better than $700.

65mm

Please oh please tell me this will fit my 3.6R....PLEASE!!!

 

What is the OE TB size anyway? This unit is 75mm which is just shy of 3". I know my piping is 3", but the website states it flows better than OE.

 

I am literally walking out the door in the dark with a flashlight to take a look under the hood.

Actually, you already have support, you just need your ECU rom defined. This can be done by downloading your rom, joining Romraider, and uploading your rom while being a bit patient. Edward uses Romraider to assist in some rom definitions.

Not to be too much a shill for Edward, I only mentioned him because he can guide you through tuning remotely. I'm in Pennsylvania USA and Edward is in Barbados. I'm over 300 miles from the nearest Subaru tuner so its not exactly doable with a family which made him ideal. The fact that he can do the job made it worth it.

Thanks. I will check on him if I could not find a tuner here locally. Anyway my tactrix cable have arrived. Hopefully ecuflash does support my ecu or else need to send a copy of my rom to tactrix. They will add support of my rom to their software before I could edit them, although they said it will probably take some time to do this.

For tuning your 2.5l check with Edward at

http://www.xtremeracingtuning.com/

He can probably do something bout the tuning on your car. He's done the previous gen 2.5. I'm not sure if he can do the cvt but he's pretty clever.

 

For the meantime, I have been observing, monitoring and collecting some performance data using the Torque pro. I’m thinking of getting a stage 1 tune. I think with stage1 tune, this SC should work even better. Anyone here got their 2.5i NA ECU tuned? I have already ordered a Tactrix cable and hope to start to tune this car myself if I could not find someone tuning this car.

The EZ30 and the EZ36 are very similar and the EZ30D from the early 2000 model H6 has an aluminum intake manifold. If one of those can be picked from a junker there is a high possibility it'll fit. Then you could possibly get them port matched; EZ30D manifold and the EZ36 throttle body.

If you had a better intake manifold with a larger TB is in the works, I would send a deposit right now!

I'd send those headers to a place like JetHot for a coating.

http://www.jet-hot.com/

Some 'fresh' pics of the baked-in headers and revised exhaust.

 

Headers outlet ID 2.25" -> 2.25" SS section of pipe ->

stock cats -> 2.5" SS section of pipe -> 3" SS braided mesh coupler ->

3" pipe with Vibrant resonator -> Magnaflow 3" catback

Didn't you need a special tool to freeze the crank pully bolt?

I like it. There is no power gain BUT the engine does climb up and down the RPM range easier and faster.

 

Relatively easy to install, should take no more than 30 minutes.

Best on a cold engine.

 

I believe the price was somewhere around $200-240 shipped.

Buy one piece of gutter guard, spray paint it black, and cut to fit. It's an identical pattern.

your mesh looks different the mine, I have plenty of air flow and it still looks stock. I wouldn't replace the mesh unless you do it on both sides.

Yeah, a third hole,.... just behind the knee. Really since you've gone that far mind as well cut out all that fake plastic mesh and replace it with the real stuff.

Are you suggesting a third hole per honeycomb or to remove all backing material?

 

I contemplated a third hole, but the piece is pretty weak. I may still do it...dunno.

Ha the outback is barf.

Yup, 4th gen Outback 3.6L is BRF.

5th gen LGT is BM9.

 

I wonder what the code is for a 5th gen DIT equipped Legacy.

Yep, one of my stockers came apart after the first winter. Probably would have been fine if I never decided to upgrade the rear sway. The threads disintegrated holding the bolt. The other side was fine. I think the side with the gruesome death just got lucky.

If the car has been exposed to anything corrosive (like road salt) then you will probably need to replace the stock rear end links.

From my meager understanding of the rom, not all tables are changed across the board. There are other tables a tuner would change less to allow the variance which would give that kind of forgiveness. Of course there are limits but that is what knocking, pinging, and dead motors are for:lol:

Also 93 (although I've run 91 and 89 without issue, when forced to upstate). At 87, with the tune, we'll get knock.

 

My latest mustang dyno plot looks almost identical to ItalianLegacies now! He's got more mid-range torque and no 2/2.5K RPM torque dip plus makes a more consitant power gain up top.

 

I'm happy to see the plots/slopes follow each other. Its a good sign that the 3.6R tunes are likely doing similar things across the various maps, or at least arriving at like-to-like output

At 93 octane for more power I'd more inclined towards just gaining additional drivability. Less throttle latency, better shift points, less restrictions, power would be nice but improved drivability I define as almost the same thing.

Damn I want the tune but don't want to run 93.

What octane do you have to run in the car?

With this new tune the car feels like a completely different machine.Unfortunatly I wont be able to drive it much longer because its going to the body shop in a couple of hours to fix the damage from december when i was rear ended. But when i get it back it will be like i picked up a new car I highly recomend if anyone with 3.6R even outbacks with a 3.6R with intake and exhaust. Pull your rom and send it to ECS for some stage 2 upgrades. Its worth it. 244awhp for me and added bonus of better gas mileage. eastcoastswappers.com You can also email your roms to me if you like giobotta@gmail.com.

My OEM box fits a bit more secure than what you have. Much of that was because of the minor filing to fit. Lines up next to perfect. I didn't see anything looking flimsy. I just wished the couplings had more length to them so getting the tube into position wasn't a pain.

I've had a few other brands of CAI's on various cars and this fits right in with them on quality; Iceman, K&N's, and Injen.

I thought about that same tape on the Takeda too during my install. I have two different size rolls from working on my home A/C from last spring.

Do it. Replace the OEM with better pads and drive the pants off it. Your not going to feel much difference with new rotors unless maybe they're vented and cross drilled. Not a huge difference unless you're on a track day. OEM rotors are ok.

Seems a cheap(er) and possible solution to combat the brake fade is just to get a new set of pads. A better set of pads. It will not change your front/rear distribution unless you taylor the pad set, but it should help brake fade, correct? (provided you buy a good set).

There is a cutout on mine but as I said earlier in the post the Takeda really doesn't use the other half of the stock box for anything other than something to lean on since it has no way of supporting itself otherwise. I may close off the hole for the milk jug eventually.

As for the filing I did, I didn't loosen the bolts since I did not want this to bounce around under hard throttle. That does make putting it in a little harder but I don't have to worry about it popping off. I did however want the Takeda box to slide in/out easier so I filed the plastic for the tabs to fit in better. The seal I didn't cut into pieces I did however slice it a little on the edge so it would bend easier around the corners; it's still one long continuous piece.

Fitting the tubing I did get the elbow where I wanted it first on the new box then aligned it to the tube.

 

3rd: The trim seal was a PITA, so I cut it into three pieces and installed it around the three long edges. It's just there to keep the housing from being loose and rattling. It does nothing to actually seal the housing.

 

4th: Maybe I received the wrong part with my order, but mine has a cutout on the side of the housing nearest to the fender that allows air into the air box. It's no big deal, I just now have three separate openings in the air box (stock intake, HKS funnel & Takeda box). Nadracer, can you comment on that? Also, I didn't have to modify my stock box to get the Takeda to fit, but I did have to loosen the bottom bolt so I would have more room.

 

5th: It would probably have been easier to install the elbow coupling onto the Takeda box prior to putting it in place.

 

6th: I left the engine cover off because broken. Not a good idea to remove it when it's 25F out.

Hawk HPS pads are a nice improvement over the OEM pads.

PN: PP-HPS-FR-1206 (this part number is for both sets front/rear)

"Problem" is such a harsh word. There is no problem, I'm trying to figure out how it could be better. Might be by a tune, mixing parts, lengthening/twisting this or that.

So, the problem with the Takeda box and aFe filter is too much air being sucked into the intake?