BigBopper

I sent a PM to Big Bopper since he did an install of version 2.

 

From his V2 instructions, it appears he tapped into one of the ports on the charge pipe. There are two identical ones and he capped one off. What are these ports?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-lgt-performance-mods-202211.html?p=4308126&highlight=crawford+extension#post4308126

This is the low pressure intake side to turbo. In OEM configuration, 1st nipple on left side comes from L&R valve cover breather hose ports. Next nipple to the right comes from crankcase vent below PCV. These two nipples/lines introduce the oil mist/blow by you are trying to eliminate from the intake, by installing the AOS.

The installation instructions are for WRX/STI. Does anyone know where the white sensor in the photo is on our cars?

 

Thanks in advance.

2010 LGT does not have the electronic check valve ("white sensor"). Don't know about 2011 & 2012 LGT.

Islandborn is the only one who has modded the slave cylinder to remove it.

Hey, don't forget me too!

I removed both also.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5100783&postcount=337

Just got the v-limited lip - Would you guys accept this or worth trying to return for a new piece - debating whether I'm gonna plastidip it black or not

Looks like it got bent during supplier handling or shipping, causing the coating to flake off. It also looks like it has a defect (blemish/depression).

Did you sign for it at delivery? Is the box beat up like it was dropped or crunched? You may need to file a claim with the shipper.

Contact supplier/manufacture and see what they can do for you. If they're willing to work with you for a replacement, see if you can have them double box the new one.

Good Luck

A few pics of disassembly for reference.

Finally got the time, courage and tools to get this done. It took me an absurd amount of time mostly because I was going to replace the PCV valve, but after pulling a few hose clamps, I couldn't find it.

Hope these help you with the PCV valve replacement project.

BTW, I found some cracks in my hose that you can see in the photo by my thumb and forefinger.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5297783&postcount=5

I'm certainly not an expert but it does still hit boost targets (actually slightly quicker than it did after my dyno tune) and the IATs seem to be on par with what they should be based on ambient.

Can you verify the boost pressure is actually what the engine (ECM) is seeing. If the boost pressure was actually lower than what is being used by the ECM, it seems you would experience lower performance, as you are now... ?

Throwing out ideas.

None that I have come across yet. Everything looks to be in perfect order. I did notice on the nipple of my BOV (Turbosmart Kompact) that it is quite free-spinning. Is this normal? I don't remember it being able to spin freely when I installed it but my memory sucks....

Did you ever verify if your BPV was working properly?

Reference photos:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5137498&postcount=8

I use Motul Gear 300.....

That will make it "stiff"

The first "damper" is more of an expansion chamber, that over time and somewhat aggressive clutch pedal activation (and likely, accelerated by cold fluid) will cause the baffle plate to fracture (Surley). Removing it will lessen the somewhat vague clutch/pedal feel, which we all agree, is a good thing.

Removing the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly from the slave cylinder will eliminate the restricting orifices. This allows the clutch fluid to directly activate the throwout bearing during engagement/disengagement for a unrestricted action. By removing it, you will definitely notice the difference in colder (fluid) temps.

These devices were installed to lessen clutch induced shock on the driveline. As installed they do what they were intended to do. However, at the cost of vague/mushy pedal feel and slower disengagement of the clutch disc which causes unnecessary wear.

^^The last pic is the sub-assembly you removed from the slave cylinder?

Yes, that is the spring loaded damper/control valve assembly.

If you look at pic #4 & #5 [Clutch Damper Delete (1)], you will see both front & back of the damper disk, (12 little holes around a small hole in the middle) the back side has a small black rubber circle that acts as a check valve which allows fluid to travel through the 12 holes in one direction but not in the other direction. It forces the fluid to travel the opposite direction through the center hole.

When I did mine, I just sucked all the fluid out first.

I also removed the restricting orifice/damper from the slave cylinder. I'll attach some pics for all you curious monkey wrenches.

I have bilstein with rce black combo....

 

I've noticed that the wheel gap (top of tire to fender) in the front is more than back.

 

Back struts were left as is from RCE....did not alter height...didn't know how lol

 

About 1 finger's worth...i know...very scientific.

 

Car looks level though...

 

Anyone experience this?

Or should I take it all apart and reassemble.

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Need more information:

How many hookers are in the trunk.

To those of you who are curious about the fluid damper valve located inside the Operating (Slave) Cylinder, I grabbed a few pictures.

Mechanically, it appears to allow fluid into the lower piston/push rod cylinder faster as you depress the clutch pedal, and slower as the clutch pedal is released.

Notice the black (washer like) piece that is attached to the perforated round metal disc, on it's back side. This seems to serve as a check valve for the outer ring of drilled holes on the metal disc.

Here is a pic of what they pulled. The "valve" has holes on the other side that the rubber plugs up

Island, did you get to drive your car after the damper delete (before the spring and rubber valve was removed)? I'm curious what each mod does to the feel and function of the hydraulic clutch.

^ Are you thinking about removing the inline spring? Interested in what your driving impression would be of that ... since you already know what the damper delete did for the feel of the clutch.

P.S. Got my connector today. I have another on order but haven't received it yet. It will be available to anybody having trouble getting one.

^ There isn't a spring on the "line" side. Only a banjo bolt type fitting.

The above illustration only shows one spring in the operating cylinder assembly.

islandborn, can you give us any other info on the slave cylinder spring delete?

Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...