DeltaSniper

It is even easier if you just use the pre-existing holes for the screws and enlarge them with a drill, which is what I did.

Takes the trouble out of having to measure the distance for that.

Painted and then installed, I would recommend installing it and then removing it and painting thereafter since drilling larger holes for the use of pop-it clips may lead to you chipping off the paint, which is what happened to me.

No need to leave the lip on for extended periods of time though, I think installing it and removing it immediately for painting would work just fine.

On a side note, I highly advocate the use of pop-its, makes removal for the winter and reinstallation for spring significantly easier, I reinstalled mine in just under 2 minutes.

If your paint shop is good, they should put enough flex additive to make cracking a lot less likely.

Case and point is, my car had to wade through flood water deeper than the bumper last summer, if my paint job was shit, the force of the water moving would have bent it enough to crack but my lip still looks as good as the day I got it painted.

 

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc434/wantavant/Leggy/5ECC2FA9-452D-45CD-9E41-559D303B2346_zpsnvlvr04q.jpg

 

this car needs an exhaust asap.

The secret is not so much in the wax but the prep before hand, I also make sure that when I wash it I do not instill ANY swirl marks..... having said that I can say my car is around 95% swirl free (cant escape the swirling over time due to small mistakes in washing etc)

(All done on a Flex DA)

Lake Country Orange + M205

Lake CountryBlack + Menzerna PO85rd

Optimum Opticoat v2.0

Autoglym HD Wax

That picture doesnt actually have a lot of color editing done, so my car in real life doesnt look too far from those pictures when it comes to the paint condition

First Professional Photoshoot courtesy of a friend on a local Subaru Forum.

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9235086959_1d7bc01d36_o_zps7e2fe08c.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9235079063_daaf3399e2_o_zps69ac9d1c.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9235080365_1ab9c2549d_o_zps837a9e2d.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9237862078_047a07c495_o_zps1933ffe8.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9237865304_2e61ca2060_o_zps8958d3c3.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9237866144_4e67299d27_o_zps5c7fabc2.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/9235086455_72438581f0_o_zps63cb140c.jpg

Power comes in much earlier and there is noticeable off boost performance, I am on an Invidia full catted turboback.

Yeah it all depends on your plans for the car, since I want to drive it for a long long time, power can wait

Mike gave me 2 maps, one LWG @ 16.5 PSI and the HWG at 18.5 PSI.

Been driving around on the 16.5psi map.

259whp/306wtq no upgraded IC, very conservative tune since I told them I wanted to place a very large emphasis on reliability over power.

I plan on driving this car until its dead.

Okay, I just actually looked at those bagriders links, didn't realize they already came with strut tops. The rears should bolt right up, the fronts would just need one of the studs moved, that's easy enough.

 

Shit, if I had the cash lying around I'd probably do it, lol

You would actually airbag your ride? Thats unexpected, your car is one of the cars on here that seems to put an emphasis on function over form.

After a good wash and a stage 2 protune

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0770_zpsf89e74e2.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0769_zps807a2531.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0767_zps7b966325.jpg

Oh shieet, someones thinking about bagging his whip.

But theoretically yes, it should work...

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_07541_zpsd0022879.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_07551_zps9db56ee8.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0730_zps1efc5ce6.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0741_zps9b083939.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0742_zpse331fc9a.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0743_zps2321b995.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0745_zps643166ec.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0744_zpsd8090397.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0752_zpsb5cdef8e.jpg

Okay here goes....

For mounting most of the locations, I used the popit that holds up our trunk liner combined with a 5/16ths drill bit to drill the holes.

It fits almost perfectly but a tad too tight actually...sometimes you can snap a portion of the popit off when putting it in, so its best to have spares.

For the corners, I used the same popit that holds up our bumpers combined with a 3/8's drill bit to make it fit, this one fits fantastically.

(You can choose to use any popit for mounting the whole thing TBH, its just that I had a lot of trunk liner popit spares)

So far it holds VERY well and I would definitely say its possible.

PS. if you ever go my route with using popits, make sure you DRILL BIGGER HOLES BEFORE PAINTING IT (I colormatched mine).

I actually have flaked off some of the paint due to the drilling.... sigh... but its underneath so no one will see it anyway.

Heres the BIGGEST secret.

Use painters tape to hold the lip in place overnight to help the plastic "shape" itself to the shape it needs to be to fit the bumper, the next day, the plastic should have molded itself tmuch closer to the shape needed for installation, this removes the "flexing" problem out of the install picture.

It also helps to leave the lip on the floor to flatten it out, mine was the basement for a few months so it was very flat when I got around to installing it, removing vertical flex.

On the contrary... I just finished mounting my lip with OEM pop-it clips...

It holds up very well but I do need to add more.

More info coming soon when I completely finish mounting the lip.

IMO Choose a light grey... that way its not too dark but yet doesnt blend in with the gray color of the car.

I purposely chose a shade of gray about 3 shades lighter than the car to get the wheels to pop out a bit but not too much.

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Car/DSC_0449.jpg

Has anyone tried to use the factory clips to secure the lip?

EG; drill holes big enough for the factory clip in the lip and just use that with the preexisting holes in the bumper for the clips?

Just a short photo journal of Winter Autocross 2013, pictures were not taken by me (obviously)

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/1810_10151476907369380_68358755_n_zps11433cd6.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/485935_10151476907449380_2109749601_n_zpse150cec4.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/12112_10151476907684380_1391321724_n_zps1876b6ea.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/313377_10151476914394380_939501005_n_zpsd4576a43.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/P3032482ColorCP2_zps660b667e.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Snokhana-559_zpsa7b77624.jpg

http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s493/BoxerPower555/Snokhana-514_zpsfc770859.jpg