ktm200

Black wagon with gold wheels getting on 95 south exit 3A RI. Looked good.

Almost 140k. Burned valve at 135k. Rebuilt heads and turbo. 138k short block. Rest of the car is holding up great though. No body rot anywhere and just light surface rust underneath. Not bad for New England. Probably in need of struts and end links soon.

How are these control arms and bushings holding up for everyone? My car has about 140k of new England driving and was going to do whiteline LCA bushings soon. Wondering if I'm better off just getting these arms complete with the balljoints. How do the bushings it comes with compare to the white lines? I'm not looking for the caster adjustments. Just trying to decide if it's with the aggravation of pressing the old ones out (don't even know if I'll need ball joints or not) or just putting in a complete arm.

There has been success with tuning the TCM rather than performing physical upgrades to the valve body on the 08-09 5EAT. While no upgraded VB yet exists (and might not ever) for the 08-09, the tuning functions seem to do the trick.

 

Does anyone know of any tuners that offer this service? I've never really seen anything about it on these forums. I kind of assumed 08/09's didn't have any shot at 5EAT improvements.

 

Edit: After a lot more digging and reading I misunderstood that there were TCU tuning improvements available. It sounds more like ECU requested torque and fly by wire adjustments to speed up shifting. My tranny doesn't seem to be slipping but those terribly long upshifts and the car not wanting to downshift from 5th on the highway when going uphill or for gentle passes drives me nuts. If anyone knows of any tuners that have experience improving these factors through ECU tuning I'd like to hear it. I was hoping to go with someone local to RI so I can go the road tune route.

 

I couldn't care less about dyno numbers at the moment, I'll never compare to a lot of the incredible cars on these forums. I care more how my car drives in everyday conditions.

Nice blue 08/09 GT Plainfield Pike Cranson/Johnston RI line around 2 today. Don't see too many GTs around here.

Did a compression test today. It was 40F outside and the engine was bone cold.

 

Cylinder 1: 130 psi

Cylinder 2: 120 psi

Cylinder 3: 130 psi

Cylinder 4: 120 psi

 

After the compression test I proceeded to put in 4 new spark plugs, a new battery, injector cleaner, and Seafoam in the vac line. Nothing made a difference.

 

I upped the idle rpm with my Accessport to +300 oven normal (~1,050 rpm). This resolved the misfire issue for now but it is a bandaid fix.

 

I did the exact same thing. Started back late last winter. Rare misfire code when it was really cold out and I first started the car. If I cleared the code when it was warm, it wouldn't come back for the day. And it was only a couple times a month. Then summer rolled around and it rarely came up again. Until this winter, started to get worse. Raising the RPM worked for a bit, until it started running terribly and was misfiring at idle regardless of engine temps and when lifting off the throttle for braking.

 

Compression tests were all fine. 130-135psi cold on all cylinders. However, when we tried pressurizing the cylinders for a leakdown, cylinder 4 (the one misfiring) wouldn't hold anything. Pulled the head, shined a light down the exhaust port, could see light all the way around one of the exhaust valves. I know its been said before, but a good compression test really might not tell the whole story.

Only a matter of time before 09 included?

 

Probably:

 

http://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-takata-inflators-exclusive-idUSKCN0VV0L6

 

Article says a potential 90 million MORE cars might get added to the recall list. Could end up being a very, very long time to get parts if that's the case.

Been having the airbag light come on a lot more frequently lately. Going to try this fix. What temperature range are you guys setting the solders at to reflow? I don't want to burn anything out. Only touched a soldering iron maybe once or twice before. Thanks.

do not contact IPT about a valve body kit for our vehicles, any model year. it is a waste of time and money.

 

clutch packs and other upgrades are another story, IPT still may be good for those.

 

 

Yea I had no plans of even considering the IPT "valve body upgrades". More than a few members have still fried the transmission despite their way overpriced "upgrade". MSpank smoked a newer 5EAT on just a 16g with the IPT valve body kit if I recall. And a 16g isn't exactly big. TranGo makes a 5EAT shift kit but it's listed as only for the 05-07's.

 

Has anyone had luck doing the upgraded clutch packs with them for the 08/09 (and no valve body work)?

 

Might message ClimerD. Just curious on what is making this 08/09 such a pain to crack.

 

I just cringe to think that when I'm due for a turbo, I'd have to stick with stock or risk blowing the tranny. Especially painful when there are so many bigger turbos out there cheaper than a stock replacement.

I don't mean this as being a nag, just honestly curious, what has been the hold up with the 08/09 development? What has been the road block? Is it still being worked? Has anyone ever tried contacting any of the aftermarket companies like B&M or transgo to inquire if a shift kit were possible or ever looked at?

 

I'm just interested in what the major difference is with these 08/09s.

149k miles, about 77k miles on the vf52. everything ok so far.

 

However, judging by your profile description, you have the IPT valve body. We have no such options for the 08/09 as far as I'm aware. At nearly 100k miles on the tranny in my 09, I get that quick slip and overrev when it upshifts under load. Its not bad, just doesn't make me feel very comfortable to add a bigger turbo without any sort of valve body kit.

 

Still holding out hope (after a few years of watching these forums ).

Took me 5.5 hours. It is a PITA with the stupid air pump emissions thing. Had to do driver rear plug with car on lift because I didn't know how to disconnect the plastic tube from the air pump. At least the rear coilpack can be removed if you turn it just right.

 

^THIS!

 

Boy does it suck on the drivers side. The one closest to the grill wasn't terrible, took me some time to get the rotation on the coil right, so it would slide right out. But that rear drivers side, what a pain.

 

First off, the walkthroughs I had seen made no mention of that air pump hose. Not sure if it was new on the later models, but there was next to no way for me to get my fingers down there to do anything. Couldn't see or get a socket on that rear coil. And as far as disconnecting the air pump hose, I couldn't even get close to reaching the rear most clamp on that hose to disconnect it. I thought about just spraying a little power lube and try twisting it off, but cringed at the thought of getting it back on.

 

 

So what I did was take the bolts off the air pump itself, then disconnect the forward most clamp on that air hose (there is a bolt to remove, holding the hose to the motor as well). Doing that, there was enough play between the two, to wiggle the front of the hose free from the pump. (I really couldn’t figure out how to get the pump free of the shield over the front of it and just get it out of the way entirely, so the pump stayed in place). Once the hose was free, its flexible enough at the back end to just lift hose up and out of the way. This gave me just enough room to see the rear coil.

 

Used a swivel socket to get the coil bolt loose, but then I didn’t have a chance at getting the coil off. I could get my fingers on it, but the back of my hand was against the frame and I couldn’t pull it at all. I spent probably an hour between actually getting to the coil bolt and then trying to get it free. Wasn’t until my wife came down asking what was taking so long, had her use her tiny hands and pop it free. Similar to the forward coil, took me some fooling around before I spun it correctly to lift free between the head and frame.

 

Getting the plug wasn’t too bad, used a swivel spark plug socket and extension. Just makes me a little uncomfortable torqueing that thing free at an angle. And the same goes for threading the new one back in. Took me a little while before it actually started threading in. Had to the swivel socket and extension again. Just couldn’t fit my hand down there.

Thankfully it’ll be a couple years before I have to do it again.

Best bet, get a girlfriend with tiny hands for the week. It'll make the job a lot less miserable.

Understand

 

Anyone else out there running a VF-52? How's it holding up?

Been away from the forums for quite some time, to tempting to spend money

 

Anyways I'm at about 95k miles on my 09 and I'm toying with the idea of ditching the stock turbo before it gives me problems. Nothing crazy, probably a VF-52, just a nice bump in some broad power.

 

Question is whats the deal with the valve body mods for the 08/09s?

 

Was anything ever resolved? Couldn't find any recent info. All the 5eat with bigger turbo stories have me freaked. Reluctant to go bigger on a higher mileage (babied) tranny thats stock.

Clean 08/09 DGM GT. Front lip, cleared headlights, and a blacked out grill. Turned off 95 on to 117 in Warwick. Nice car.

How far down am I on that there list Climber? lol I cant remember >.<

 

Whoa what did I miss, there's a wait list or the 08/09? And good luck with the progress Climber!

Saw in the last thread BNR is offering a no core option. Didn't see it on the BNR site, still in progress?

 

Subscribed

Some 2008 (don't recall the actual VIN # change-over) and all newer 5EATs are VDC.

 

 

Anything else out there to improve the pedal? Have heard alot of mixed results with the ss lines and mc brace.

so will this work with a 5eat? all of you posting seem to have a mt

 

5eat has VDC correct?

 

Seen it mentioned several times in this thread that for VDC cars the tube and fitting sizes are different and do not mate up to the sti master cylinder.

 

Has anyone done this swap on a LGT 5eat? Mushy brakes have to be my biggest complaint with this car.

Incorrect. See http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2009-5eat-stage-2-options-199198.html

Fish your not alone in the random sporadic low load knock corrections. Running Cobb stg 2 91oct with only a catted downpipe. Cruising on the highway at 65 (~2500rpm where i also get that damn stutter/hesitation) I get anywhere from -2.4 to -4.2 when gently but quickly dipping into and off the gas. Also a few times a week I can get up to -7 for a split second. This usually occurs between 40 and 50mph constant throttle. Spent weeks emailing Cobb and they couldn't seem to provide much insight.

 

Aggravating, hope to get it custom tuned in the next few months to see if it can clean things up. Also want to note I never get any form of knock when doing WOT pulls.

 

Any way to get a learning view with the accessport?

Agreed I could set up a tranny fund but I prefer to beef things up prior to adding too much power reducing the risk of major $$$ breaks later. The cost or rebuilding the tranny would be much more than upgrading the transmission first (were the upgrades available). Congrats on your tranny holding up with that kind of power, thats pretty awesome. But it certainly doesn't seem to be the norm. Plenty of folks having problems at a basic stage 2.

 

I have current plans of a stronger stage 2 setup but for me a bigger turbo will be waiting.

Ruby Red 5th Gen GT with CT plates spotted south on RT12 in Groton CT. Tried to play but we were headed different directions... Haven't seen a 5th gen gt in Groton so it was great to see another!!! Who are you!!! I was the Steel Silver 5th gen that pulled up next to you desperately switching to sport mode hoping for some fun!!

 

Might have been a co worker of mine. Lives in Groton and just got his car back from the body shop yesterday.

Thanks for the info fishbone.

 

ClimberD, hows the 08+ work going? Any hope going into the new year?

With the Tru-Cool 4454 having a built in bypass, should a stand alone thermostat still be used?