Cincy05LGT

Here's my meat. 245/40R17 RE71R on 17x9 et45 RPF1's. They needed every mm of inboard room the coilovers provided, and a good fender roll.

 

Recently lifted about 0.5" for autox and track. Required for kerbs and elevation change at Mid Ohio on 7k springs...

FYI this build list is fantastic, #goals right here. GLWS

 

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I was able to block off the inlet side of the TMIC, and pressurize the intake through the PCV nipple. Holds 10 psi with no leaks, even with the oil fill cap removed. So, this solved the crankcase pressurization issue. Pulled the PCV valve, still rattles and passes the blow test (can only blow thru in one direction) which is confusing... Regardless, I have a new oem PCV assembly on the way. Stay tuned for an update after reassembly this week.

 

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Bump. Any tuning gurus?

 

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I got issues, could use some help. I did an HPDE last month at Mid Ohio, car ran absolutely amazing. Checked LV's throughout the event, trims were +/-1% with no flkc. This week, I'm seeing fuel trims increasing with hunting idle when coming to a stop.

 

I attempted a boost leak test, but find I'm unable to build pressure without the oil cap on and tight. Should I be able to build crankcase pressure through the intake this easily, or is it TFANSB?

 

Maybe a failed PCV?

 

I'm really hoping this is just something stupid...

 

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Hose to the ebcs kinked or blocked? Just dealt with this myself.

 

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What's FRP mean, paint grade?

Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic

 

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Glad to see this car still kicking! Gives me hope lol.

 

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Found my Moore Performance uppipe cracked at the welds on both ends. No wonder I haven't been happy with turbo response lately! Also explains the fumes in the cabin under heavy acceleration. Today I pulled off the TMIC, downpipe, headers, and uppipe. While I was in there, I replaced the mega crusty oil cooler coolant pipe and elbows, tightened the ebrake cable, and started designing a new bracket for the 3port. New Grimmspeed uppipe and RE71R's show up tomorrow, still have a ways to go before Mid Ohio July 12th. I'm excited to see how turbo response improves with the new parts.

 

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Well, this car is a ******* animal. The new upgrades made a massive difference in turn in, and overall grip and balance. I managed to bring home a runner up trophy in XA class in the ultra competitive Cincinnati region SCCA behind a 2018 STi. Still at -1° front camber with the factory bolts maxxed, so a few more degrees should erase any remaining hints of understeer.

 

The only concern this weekend was my learning view after the event showed quite a bit of pulled timing. I fear I may be maxxed out on fueling with oem sidefeeds on this 16g at 20psi...

 

Next up is camber plates, corner balance, and oil temp/pressure gauges.

 

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That's a tumble generator valve (TGV) motor. Easy to replace. I'm not 100% but I believe that cracked housing could cause a vacuum leak which would explain the rough idle.

 

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When you say the turbo went boom, you mean the turbo bearing ate itself and there's a ton of shaft play??? Usually that sounds like a dentists drill and ability to make boost is completely gone. If this is the case, you have a ton of bearing material floating around in your oil and the entire engine is likely on borrowed time. Sorry for the bad news.

 

Also, go to a better mechanic that knows Subarus.

Just saw this. I'm in the market for a midsize SUV to replace my wife's 2015 Corolla S. I've been trying to decide between a CX5 and a XC60 and need to do some test drives. Part of me wants to just go electric and get a Model Y, but this new Subaru would likely be more functional and budget friendly. Hopefully it's not vaporware.

 

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Tonight I got a Whiteline 20mm RSB, Kartboy solid endlinks, and AVO reinforcing brackets installed. Holy moly does this car rotate! The car will now oversteer on demand, both while trail braking and throttle on corner exit.

 

I'm pumped. Ready for autox this weekend.

 

Also, I'll be playing in the new XSA class this season. Hopefully some better competition than SM.

 

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Appreciate the support, we made the most of the day as best we could. A little positivity and low and slow smoked meat goes a long way for improving one's mood.

 

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Mother's Day is going to be difficult this weekend. My wife and I suffered the loss of our first child at 36 weeks back in February. Grief of a stillbirth is unbelievably painful.

 

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07 STi MC on the way to go with the STi booster. Hopefully the Wagner brand is still worth a damn

 

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My whiteline 20mm RSB arrived today to go along with the AVO brackets and kartboy endlinks. Project "neutralize the understeer" is well underway. I'm really hopeful that increasing rear roll stiffness while improving front grip through increased camber and caster will do the trick.

 

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The Loctite 660 suggestion got me thinking.

 

Ended up sticking with the Whiteline KCA334 ALK. I chose to adhesively bond them into the aluminum arms after a grit blast surface prep and solvent wipe. I just finished up a research project at work on Huntsman Araldite 2022-1 epoxy and had zero doubts about which adhesive system to use. Access to USAF bonding procedures and aerospace grade epoxy FTW.

 

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I have a set of used oem yellow sidefeeds sitting in a box in the garage. Not sure on the mileage, but they came from a JDM Legacy 2.0GT intake manifold. Make me an offer.

 

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Better than Hawk HP+ and 245 BFG Rival S?

 

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Looking forward to better brake feel this year. Spent a few hours researching last night and bought an 04-07 STi brake booster and MBC to swap in. Already have Goodridge SS lines, Grimmspeed MBC brace, and fresh fluid, hoping this kills the spongy "parachute" effect.

Post a picture? I'm curious how loose they are. Maybe the fitment of the aftermarket arm used a slightly different bushing that is unique to the arm.

I'll post pics tomorrow. They're not rattling around in there or anything, but I can easily push them in with my hand. I'll take a pair of calipers to the oem vs whiteline tomorrow also.

 

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Bump for advice

 

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I bought a pair of Mevotech Aluminum front LCA's and very carefully pushed out the rear bushings last night. No damage to the inner bore, bushings came out with moderate pressure. Went to install the Whiteline KCA334 kit, and the slip fit into the bore... which was surprising. I understand they are captured between the frame and triangle plate but shouldn't they at least be a press fit into the arm? Seems a bit odd...

 

Maybe some concurrence on whether this is normal?