FunkyDragon

The referral came through facebook, but the person mentioned this thread. so... YES!

This car has been sold. Thank you for your interests and referrals!

I have a sale pending. (not that guy)

Hey Skyler - for some reason the forum isn't forwarding notifications of PMs to my email. I did just PM you back.

a few years back someone was selling some through the FaceBook Spec.B club, I ended up getting mine from a local part-out

Attached: Engine is stock, still has factory covers. This was the best I could do for the underside.

SOLD 7/17/2021 ** Update 6/28/2021 ** - I've received a lot of interest from out-of-state buyers, and as such I'm going to get a dealer inspection and maintenance report from my local Subaru Dealer - the earliest appointment was 7/1. I'll be holding the car until I get that report and offer it to all interested parties before committing to a sale. ** Update 7/2/2021 ** - I got the maintenance inspection yesterday, no issues found except for a cracked fog light. I also got better pics of the undercarriage. 2009 Subaru Legacy GT Spec.B Location: Fort Lee NJ Asking Price: $13,500 Mileage: ~105,000 Transmission: 6 speed manual Color: Ruby Red Metallic Title: Clear Title on hand Lien: No Liens Original Owner Ruby Red - only 13 made! One owner, non-smoking, completely stock! A blank slate for your project! This vehicle is in well-kept condition, dealer serviced for all major milestones and nearly every small service. Records included. The car will come with both summer wheels and tires (stock) and a set of winter wheels and tires (Blizzak) each with only 2 seasons on them. The car and the wheels come with the normal amount of road rash for a 12 year old car in the north east. There are some minor dings and scratches, and a small rust spot at the top of the windshield from a glass replacement. One long vertical dent in rear driver door from a shopping cart. (a bunch of savages in this town!) The some minor dents in the door cards, and some chipped out material from the dash around the GPS from the Airbag Recall - included a JDM sun visor for the GPS to help mask those imperfections. One of the side mirrors is cracked, but the car will come with a set of JDM folding mirrors that you can perform a swap. Also included - spec.B floor mats, never used. Trunk protector - hard to find. Original GPS in box, and a Nexus Tablet replacement mod that supports Android Auto & Apple Car Play installed.

Here's the issue with the CarLinkKit AutoKit - I've modified the display properties of my tablet so that the visible space is inside the bezel of my NAV unit, and that has squished some apps (mostly the Google aps) and made the resolution look wonkey. It never affected my navigation apps, so no big deal. Note the orange bar in the top 3rd of the screen. However, it DOES squish the ever loving crap out of the AutoKit that serves up Android Auto - IF i connect the phone after a full boot. If the phone is connected, it seems the dongle launches the software first, serves up the right resolution and beats whatever service that starts and squishes the interface. BUT the app immediately crashes. it relaunches a second time and then this garbage appears in the corner - it's a button i can pull to another location which serves up the home, back, and minimize buttons. I was able to pull the dot into the middle of the screen. hitting the button brings up this nav window: I can't get rid of it, and once it is opened, it blocks the buttons on the Android Auto interface. I can manually close the app, and that menu button is gone, but i have to disconnect my phone and plug it back in to get the app to open up properly again. once I've stabilized the app this way, it seems to work just fine, even when putting the tablet to sleep. it's only on a full power down/power up (which is going to be about 70% of the time) that i run into this. some questions - Is there a known way to set the startup order of android apps so that i can try forcing a launch of the AutoKit before "anything else"? does anyone know what those stupid buttons are from? potentially another launcher app?

I'm getting so close i can taste it. the Android Auto Dongle "Almost" works. I'll get into that in a second. I added a GROM Bluetooth dongle, and i wish i had done this 11 years ago, and did not cheap out on some other Aux/USB powered dongle like i did 2 years ago. https://gromaudio.com/store/bt3_adapters/subaru-05-09-bluetooth-adapter-car-kit-interface.html I removed the cigarette lighter from the center console, and used that factory power cable to connect the 12V-5V USB adapter. It looks like my power drain issues may be gone, and I wish i had done this 2 years ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NCXB2M In place of the cigarette lighter I installed a single USB Cigarette lighter adapter, and wish i had just bought and installed the dual. that's on order, and will come in later today. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N66N1JK One USB will run into the CarLinKit that runs Android Auto/CarPlay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZC7TQ2 the other will just supply power for my second phone, via the 5v USB adapter. I ran (as a backup) a USB cable and an 1/8 audio cable through the center console, into the cubby where my factory Aux is, and i'm glad I did. I've patched in the output from my USB DAC for a stable analog connection to the head unit, rather than listen strictly over BlueTooth. I have the option of either now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS I can't help but wonder if installing the additional AUX option on the GROM dongle would have allowed use for both, and eliminating the need to run an AUX cable into the center console. I'll post the issue i'm having in the following post.

Right now it's plugged into the wall, and i'm getting a little charge. I really doubt i'll be able to charge the phone when in the car, as i currently have Nexus battery drain. I need to install a 5A-USB converter and get this thing off of the outlet in the center cubby.

Consolidating the double posting - Yes, Timur is installed. I followed the basic build in this thread.

Quick Update - I bought an Android Auto/Apple Carplay USB dongle and added it to the setup. Android Auto: Apple Carplay: I have to tether my phone to my tablet, and while it is a first world problem, I really like the convenience of running AA/AC. plug in, and the things i use 99% of the time are just streamed to my tablet. I've only done preliminary tests but so far, so good. Minimal software tinkering to make it work. I've decided to run a dedicated USB run to the cigarette lighter port in the dash, as that's where i usually power my phones. Charging the phone through the dongle seems really weak, but I wasn't expecting it to work at all. Cigarette Lighter USB Plug Replacement Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAMU8KY They have Dual port/cord models as well, but since the dongle only supports one connection at a time I went with the single port. I think i probably should have gone with the 2 port, and then connect the second one to power so I can charge a second phone. CarLinkIt Android Auto/Apple Carplay Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZC7TQ2 they have wireless connection models as well, but I prefer the security of direct connection. many of the functions are seamless. when i hit the hard-wired (and mapped) "home" button on the face plate, the AA/AC interface drops to my desktop, and i can launch Torque, or other apps on the tablet. for an investment of $75, i'm pretty happy!

I just ran a USB cable through the center console to the cubby, and am using a cigarette lighter power port. Makes it easy to disconnect when I'm only backing up the car and don't need it to power up.

Very helpful - I was hoping for a software solution to be honest - I'm not too keen on rewiring my car, especially since i don't have direct access to it all the time. It sits in a "public" garage, and doing any kind of work on it is laborious.

Here's something maybe some of you can help with. When i turn the key back to turn off the car and keep the radio on, the tablet stays powered. But when i crank the engine over, it immediately dips to suspend mode and then aborts - which kills a lot of my apps, and the scanned music database for my thumb drive. Is there a way to bypass this - like let it count down for a few seconds before the suspend countdown starts so that if i'm just restarting my engine it doesn't freak out the tablet?

My install is nearly complete now. After the first dry run of installation, I took the car on a long drive out of the city. At first I didn't notice that the Nexus 7 wasn’t locking on to GPS and updating my position, as I park in an underground garage. I thought that I might be able to catch a signal as I got further from urban congestion, but no dice. The only time I was able to actually get any signal was when I was driving by a cell tower, and only for about a mile. I thought that tethering my tablet to my phone would deliver the GPS position, but I was wrong. So I looked to the internet and Amazon.com to find an “android compatible” USB GPS dongle, and found this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008200LHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 GlobalSat BU-353-S4 USB GPS Receiver Android logo on the box and all, BUT! It doesn’t work out of the box. If you download the “official” GlobalSat driver from the Play Store, you have to enable that software (USB_GPS) in the Mock Locations option under the Developer’s option setting. Android 6.0.1 wouldn’t take this setting, or would claim that the setting wasn’t enabled at all. Going to the service section of GlobalSat’s website, they advise using a custom driver from the xda forums, rather than an officially sanctioned driver: UsbGPS4Honeycomb_MR1_alpha The UsbGPS4Honeycomb_MR1_alpha driver SORT OF worked, but it wouldn’t auto-start the driver on boot up, and would crash about 5 minutes later. I had to hunt and peck for another driver built by another custom developer, this one here: https://github.com/freshollie/UsbGps4Droid/tree/master/app/build/outputs/apk Once you have the mock locations set up, there are some minor configurations within the software USB GPS software. There’s a setting to change how many times it retries to communicate with the dongle, it’s set to 5 by default. I had to bump this up to 20, so that when I turn off the car, and turn it back on, the service doesn’t time out waiting for the dongle to power back up. Since then, this thing has been solid. I get a signal immediately, and it’s super accurate. The one thing I can’t figure out is how to permanently assign the driver loading to the custom USB_GPS software, because on boot Torque tries to take over control of the device and auto-launch Torque. I keep hitting cancel, because it was such a laborious task to get it working in the first place, and I just don’t want to mess with it anymore.

I want it ALL!!!! yeah, i hard mapped 3 of the buttons from the head unit, but i plan on using the A channel to connect the steering wheel to the Joycon. thanks for your help!

any chance you have any wiring advice? (diagrams, where did you actually connect?) I also found it difficult to "save" the joycon config.

Thanks! Yeah, the buttons are small. the ones i interacted with most were volume up, and the back/main menu button. The full plan is to integrate the DEST MENU & MAP buttons to hotkeys (via a Joycon CarPC) that will drop to the desktop or open the task manager so i can change apps, and the MAP button will open my maps of choice, while DEST will open the other map applications.

Thanks! I'll look into the Bluetooth GPS app (from GG MobLab?) stupid question - do i install this on my tablet (to pull the info), or on my phone (to push the info)? I've also found this DIY antenna booster : - I might try that, since i have to pull the thing out and replace the faceplate anyway, AND it's likely that the contacts aren't fully engaged. We'll see, I'll report back. I may go this route so that if my phone is dead, or out of 4G, at least i can use locally saved maps on the tablet. I'm running Timurs' Rom, and I had to hack it to add the buttons (I'll look for the android thread i used to get the extra buttons), and resize the screen to squish and fit. first day use, i wish the buttons were bigger. maybe gestures are the way to go. *Edit* Found the thread: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-7-2013/themes-apps/mod-media-volume-buttons-navbar-car-t3180274 It was recommended to me to flash the SuperSU after installing this. I did that and it seemed to work. See my notes earlier in this thread for resizing the screen.

This past weekend, I was able to take apart my dash, run cables and finally install my NAV replacement. 2 big problems though - 1) It seems the spare face plate i purchased is JDM, and leans to the right side. you can see it popping out on the left, and pushed in on the right. My OCD won't stand for it, so that means more dremeling for me on the OEM part, and i can't save it for a fully stock spare. 2) the GPS antenna is really weak. I could only get a GPS signal when driving right past a cell tower on the highway. Problem 1 - easy. Problem 2... thoughts? recomendations or suggestions on improving the strength? can i somehow tap into the car's antenna?

I honestly didn't have the patience to try it. but if i had to GUESS, bottom picture, just under the connector - the pins all the way to the left.

I ended up cutting a micro USB cable in half, and soldering half to the nav buttons, and the other half to the ribbon cable that controls the power/volume buttons. that part was hard, as it was difficult to get the solder to rest in one spot. the Mini USB cable has 5 pins/cables, so i was only able to connect 2 buttons (Positive and ground) and cut the 5th wire. I also tried using a Cat-6 ethernet cable, but the solid copper core would not take the solder at all, and kept coming loose. once all connections on the tablet were in place, i ran a thin line of hot glue to kind of keep it all in place. i had to cut off the bottom part of the tablet's casing in order to snap it closed, but I'm happy with how it turned out. for the electronics board in the NAV buttons, that took a little deciphering to figure out where to solder the other cables. here's a pic. Red circle is the positive, blue circles are the ground. i've included pics of both sides of the board. I recommend using a thin gague wire (like the USB cable, or the included JoyCon EXR cables) and applying a little bit of solder, then thread THROUGH the pin-holes highlighted. then top it off with some solder on the bottom of the board to keep the wires in place.

Thanks to this thread, and MANY youtube clips, I've nearly completed my build. It's a 2nd Gen Nexus 7 (2013) with Timur's ROM, and Nova Launcher. I've got a USB-DAC, and a JoyCon EXR module to tie into the steering wheel controls. I also modified the stock NAV buttons to act as a hard button for power and for Volume Down (so i can navigate the boot loader, and take screenshots if I need to), and will program the JoyCon to activate the home button and the task button. I'm hoping to tie the DAC output into the onboard NAV's audio input so that the sound from the tablet plays over whichever input I'm listening to - so that i can get turn-by-turn while listening to the radio. - if anyone has a wiring diagram for that, i'd greatly appreciate it! next steps are to rip apart my dash, and center console so that i can install this bad boy!

Thanks! that worked amazingly well! I opted to skip the custom dimensions, and went with just the overscan setting. I'll check out the gestures app, but the nav bar is more so that my wife can operate the screen while I drive. and for what it is worth, the correct syntax for the overscan command is: adb shell wm overscan 125,0,0,0 I used 0,0,90,0, as there's a blemish on the right side (the side i want to hide), and the 90 was just the right offset for the navbar.