bemani

Hi there folks!

New to this forum but I've been working on and rebuilding cars for 15 yrs or so. I now have several Subarus, all Legacy,01,04 and 09. I've got some new slotted and drilled front rotors for the 09 but I'm looking for an inexpensive front caliper upgrade using the stock wheels and tires. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Dan

My WRX uses LGT brakes (makes buying parts so much easier since I don't have to remember which is for which car) and on the lighter car the LGT brakes is already a very big improvement. You should look into upgrading your other 2 cars too

Installed Pioneer AVIC-8100NEX in my 05 Legacy GT on Christmas.

Something I bought for myself

Stock speakers.

JDM double din AV panel.

JDM hazard button.

96svxdc harnesses.

GPS antenna stuck on top of the unit, under the dash. Reception seems fine.

For some reason I though the JDM hazard button = no cutting. Still ended up with a dremel inside the car though. Didn't screw up on the wiring harness so that's good.

I don't know if I can do any better with the gaps but I probably spent over an hour loosening screws and shifting brackets to try to make it fit better. Oh well.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/b534202/05%20Legacy/38AC3F19-4BBA-4C98-9121-49507B1CCF14_zpsiqq75thl.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/b534202/05%20Legacy/3BF8E810-1CFF-4DFF-88BF-196F6E4ED7D7_zps5bbemw9c.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/b534202/05%20Legacy/44F9CDC0-EA48-4E26-B36C-E336C6C90BDB_zpsqmyoanny.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/b534202/05%20Legacy/10E268CF-5548-4BD0-BA60-3719108C610E_zpsgl52eijt.jpg

That's true. But you can always get in the trunk, and take off that little cover at the bottom of the tailgate. I believe you can open the trunk from the inside.

Ah, I see the cover that you're talking about. Good to know.

Yep...you are one of the fortunate few that can shift manually, air out the car as needed via the sunroof while leaving the windows up...AND feel leather under oneself iwhile adjusting the 8 way motorized driver's seat... all without getting out of the wagon. Let's just hope your battery is up to date?

 

btw...If you find a SWP or ABP MT (taupe) example that's bone stock and less than 60k miles please let me know so I can join in the fun?

 

Cheers!

If there's a way to open up the tailgate from the inside, then this car would be perfect.

Battery is disconnected most of the time. I really should drive it more ...

I just went past 20k miles a couple of months ago.

Thread I made when I bought the car. Wow its been a while.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/regal-blue-gt-limited-wagon-pics-1131.html

86......RBP.....2005 Legacy GT wagon MT Ltd (blk)

Another one of the 86 here.

I think I'll just shoot myself instead.

(But thanks for the writeup !)

I can probably get through the part of taking the seat out ... then I'll just buy a brand new seat and put it in

I know, but, I already checked the ECU myself. Cold start, no fan.

If they claim that the recall is done by only changing the relay w/ my consent, I don't see what the problem is. If my ECU turned out to be fried, I'm the one that's screwed, as I missed my chance to get it replaced.

Anyway, just swapped the relay and tested it. Took like 5 minutes. Saved myself a lot of driving and waiting.

Anyone got reimbursed by Subaru for fixing it out of warranty yet?

I'm going to go buy the relay and see if Subaru will pay for it. Dealer wants me to leave the car the whole day when the tech can swap the relay under 5 minutes. Wouldn't believe me when I say I don't need the ECU checked. Why would I lie about something like that on my own car

I had it reset a week or so later, without disconnecting the battery. No idea why.

That POS chime is very sensitive to the power in the battery. If I don't drive my car for 2 weeks or so it'll definitely get reset. (Even if the car starts w/o problem). That time is even shorter during winter.

I've been thinking about ways to improve the silent CD some, but I haven't had a chance to try any of them yet. One idea I had was that I think it might be possible to record mono audio and possibly double the length of the CD. Another was that I should look into possibly using a lower CDA sampling rate...although I don't know if there is such thing and if all CD's are just 48kHz... If anyone knows more about this sorta thing, feel free to try it out for us...I just haven't found the time yet.

 

Also this week I'm going to hunt down another radio so that I can start benchtop testing with the scope & get started on the next edition.

If you can figure out some way to not write the lead-out, the CD will play forever.

A small update...I've run out of boards Not to worry though. I have more on the way from my fabricator which should be here in a week or so. I'm also shopping around for a spare headunit to start working on the next step in this evolution. I hope you all had a good weekend.

You revised the board and re-routed the L/R traces, right?

 

The only thing that surprised me is how hard it was to get the trim off... I really thought I was going to break a few of them. They didn't break though, and they went back on. I managed to only lose one screw that fell into the nether regions of the car... I supposed I'll have a rattle now When I first read the instructions, I wondered why I needed a magnetic pick up tool - now I know!

I think the face plate is the biggest PITA. First of all, you have to protect it because you don't want to scratch it. Second, its got those screws, and little clips to hold it on. You either use screws, or clips, you don't use both damn it. Took forever to pry it off.

BTW jazzy, it really was no problem to figure out the ribbon cable once I saw it. If you reorder the boards, you might think about rerouting the line-in to face the driver side instead so that the stereo cable won't get in the way of the radio tuner or whatever that big silver box is.

How would you be able to tell?

I put the output balance to L or R only.

Well...without knowing all the pinouts for the stereo, I'd have to honestly say I don't know...hence the very specific instruction on how to correctly plug in the ribbon cable.

 

I can only guess that whatever engineer designed this had enough foresight to know that the odd assembly person would screw this up and made the reverse pin for the power not connected/used so that it wouldn't do anything, but that's a generous guess.

 

Just don't do it eh?

The reason I ask is because the instruction is pretty confusing regarding that part, what with the driver side/passenger side thing. Maybe it will be a no-brainer once I open it up, but just reading it without actually seeing the stereo confuses the heck out of me.

I don't think I will pay $215 for it.

The next step I'm looking for is only an actual Aux selection, meaning I can switch to aux-in even if I don't have any CDs anywhere within 100m of my car, and will not mix the 2 sound sources if I decide to play a CD.

I probably won't buy it for awhile though, I gotta get back outta the red some from all the parts I bought for this board...I'll take a picture later of all the stuff I've accumulated...I'm in almost $1000 now, but the interest seems to be there to bail me out, so I took a gamble...we'll see.

I understand your pain. When I was working on a power supply for my car computer I spent so much money making various versions. I still have a whole lot of left over parts. And it was all for my use, no chance of making anything back on it

The stubborness of refusing to use an inverter