AndrewZ

any ideas?

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I did zippy tied the broken one. It seem to hold just fine. Word of advice, don't remove the coil pack connectors. They will break!

Yikes! Sorry to hear about that; I've removed them the last 2 times I've done spark plugs on my 05 2.5T

Well, underneath my car last weekend I saw that my *driver*'s side inner boot is torn now too.

Last time I went the lower ball joint route and the capture bolt broke right off. Can the lower pivots for the control arm be unbolted and swing the knuckle enough from there? Or the struts (knowing about alignment issues)? What's most simple, and doesn't involve the lower ball joint?

Well, it wasn't too bad getting the tranny dowels out of the engine. The turbo clearance was a PITA, but manageable. I'm going to pull the axles this weekend to get more room in there to pull the flywheel. I can already see what the failure was, and you all will love it. The TOB is scattered across the input shaft/snout in several pieces. I'll take pictures this weekend when I can get it out.

You shouldn't have to pull the axles to replace the clutch - I didn't. And I did it twice because I missed putting the pilot bearing on the flywheel the first time through.

None of the auto parts stores around me, including autozone, rent jacks of any sort. I was able to rent one (a trans jack) at a run-of-the-mill local tool & equipment rental place. Really though, if you have two guys I found it easier with just a floor jack and jack satnd

so is the car parts discount part number 81609 or 81608?

 

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/2005/subaru/legacy/cv_axle.html?3594=2147

According to their website, part 81609 is the axle for turbo cars

what are everyones thoughts on this?

 

http://www.drivewire.com/search/?Ntt...e&t_event=true

My thought on that link is how do you have over 500 posts?

Also, isnt a similar amount of work required to replace the boot as is required to replace the axle assembly

It should be more work to remove, rebuild and reinstall the axle than remove the old and insert a new one

I know hindsight is 20/20 but you do realize the gap tool is like a buck from any of the parts places right?

I would be very careful about those disc-style gap tools, or any sort of precise measuring device for a buck. Using a set of feeler gauges is a lot more reliable

Went ahead and changed the plugs and a number of things (at 61K), definitely running much smoother.

 

I was noticing some knock events under heavy load (track days), do you think that could have been cause by the one plug in the upper left that is all worn out? Any thoughts?

I'm pretty blown away you weren't throwing codes

For reference:

I first tried using the drivers provided with OpenEcu 1.29a for the cable. These worked fine with RomRaider's logger - but while OpenEcu would recognize a cable was connected by the read button being active it, would tell me that it was unable to connect to OpenPort. I uninstalled the drivers and tried the ones linked to on the first page here with the same results, ensuring correct baud rate and trying several different ports

So, I uninstalled the drivers from the port and uninstalled OpenEcu 1.29a. I installed OpenEcu 1.42.2595, at the time most current, and its openport drivers. Rebooted, and OpenEcu was able to read my ECU without problem!

This is using the blue connector with silver wire cable

EDIT:

Successfully flashed new map with latest version of OpenECU and logged with RomRaider without issue

Fun little note,

The bolt that clamps in my balljoint simply sheared where the threads start. Time for an easy-out or some such

Between that and the supremely galled sway bar end link, this hour job is quickly becoming a 3 hour one

i'm not sure how you would suggest going about it, but really, the tranny simply doesn't back up that far without removing the axles.

You should be able to get the transmission rear enough so that the front lip of the bellhousing can rest on the edge of the rear lip of the engine subframe, for reference to how far back you can go with the axles on. You may want to lower the front of the transmission so the input shaft on the transmission isn't in the way of your clutch alignment tool

I had the same problem separating the engine and transmission

Removing the axles isn't necessary, I did it without. Twice. (forgot to install a pilot bearing in the new flywheel)

I believe you leak fluid from the tail even without it tilted. It comes out in slow drips, you might not even notice it's leaking until there's a puddle and the smell of 90 weight. BTW, if you haven't yet experienced there isn't really a smell worse that can come from a car than burnt gear lube. And if you have an attached garage it can stink up the whole house if it's left sitting out.

I let mine drip for a few days and maybe a quarter quart of fluid at most left the transmission.

This part fit PERFECTLY and even has a heavier-duty boot!!!

Thanks for the link, I went ahead and ordered one from him. It looks like its $10 more now. Worth the money over replacing the boot IMO because I'm not sure how long the boot has been torn and wear on the bearings as consequence.

Hey Scruit,

Thanks for the video. I was going to buy a repair manual but I feel confident having watched you do it.

Thanks for the write up, BoxerGT! (though it was a few years ago)

I just finished replacing the plugs on my 05 OBXT, along with cleaning the MAF, correctly fastening down the battery and for curiousity's sake removing the intake resonator

Including two trips to autozone it took a little over two hours. I've pretty much done it all between wasting tons of money on my last daily driver, building a project car and being a mechanic for the better part of a decade for amature SCCA cars but had never touched a Subaru before other than changing its oil (I got it in the spring). So I'm glad this guide was here because I was pretty sure those were coil packs

The plugs were a pretty easy job but it would have made me mad if I didn't have an assortment of 3/8" extensions, though the three incher worked for most of it. I didn't end up needing to use a u-joint I was able to use a 12mm wrench

My advice from today is to skip the autolite iridiums. They don't come pregapped like they are supposedly. On one of the plugs out of the box the hanging electrode was drooping and pressing against the iridium center!! On another the gap must have been twice spec, which the others were (~0.040"). I wonder if they came that way from autolite or if it was from transport.

NGK's are pretty and run great. The OBXT has 51,400 and it was running notably smoother after the whole thing - though admittedly it was one of the coldest times I've driven it so it may have been the cold intake air that hit the rev limiter