Nacron

Sorry guys, i'm not in the loop on this one:

 

Q's: What are these logos? is there any meanings to it? Where can i buy & from whom? Link..pls

 

http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/cblakes17/IMG_1892.jpg

L7 is from older legacies...it was on certain trim models in japan. Meaning is unclear, some say it's the 7th star in the pleiades constellation (which no longer exists, and is portrayed in the subaru logo), some say it's just L with an upside-down L for legacy and other say it's actually LT for Legacy Turbo.

Got my stickers from DocHolladay on the forum.

anybody know if the under seat oem sub for the 4th gen works for the 5th gen legacy? i've looked at numerous pics and I can't see much of a difference. any help?

I think the sub itself is the same across all years but it's the bracket and harness that make it specific for the 5th gen. They also come with extensions for one of the AC ducts and a cap for the other so that you don't get condensation on the sub.

This isn't a legacy, but here you go. I'm told, and assured by an insurance appraiser that this is how ALL Subaru Type curtain air bags deploy. He is going to take pictures if of a legacy if he comes across one. But he's been looking since last May or June.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w48/eduarispe/impreza%20side%20impact/wrxsideimpact.jpg

Hrm, that's what my impreza looked like when I got t-boned. No glass broke though, they totalled it because the lady hit me halfway on the rear door and halfway on my 05 LGT wheel. That wheel was barely connected to the car after the accident. My friend at the body shop that did the apraisal said that it was fixable but the car was hit in the torque box so it would probably never drive the same again.

Hmm very surprised that you insurance is even attempting to fix after an air bag deployment usually that is an instant total...

 

Pretty sure the body shop will tell the insurance company that it should be totaled...

 

Everything should work out... Good Luck...

Yeah, airbag deployment usually is a total loss because the airbags are usually so damn expensive.

Oil filters from my 08 2.5i work on my legacy. Also the k&n panel filter worked too

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

New wheels finally installed:

http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg620/scaled.php?tn=0&server=620&filename=gntgt.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640

18'' OZ Prodrive with 225 45 18 Continental ExtremeContact

The more I look at it the more it seems like 16'' wheels in there because the wheel well is so big.

alrite you guys, just did this mod - took me about 2 hrs since i was pretty meticulous about the wiring and making sure that everything was sealed together pretty good.

 

i used this as a guide, but i realize that this mod may be a tad vague for beginners.

 

anyway, i did this for a 2010 and damn the clear ring made it look pretty bomb at night

 

anyway here are pics + some add ons to the OP's instructions.

 

hopefully this will take off some anxiety off people that are scared of tapping into existing wires or what not

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0585.jpg

aside from the household tools i used (scissors and some leftover wire) this is all you'll really need if you wanna go hardcore and solder everything together - these 3 things cost me like $8...if u wanna just ghetto tape everything up - then i guess e-tape LOL

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0586.jpg

i decided to shave the LED with a nail polish (the step 1 2 3 4 that makes your nail shiny HAHAHA) and it helped with the spacing issue of the LED+LED holder in the 2010 model leggy

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0590.jpg

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0587.jpg

as you can see, the spacing is kind of an issue - especially since the clear ring is where the OP had his LED holder put...so i got creative

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0588.jpg

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0589.jpg

yummm heres that clear ring that everyones jealous of

 

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0591.jpg

so here i am getting ready to solder it all up!

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0592.jpg

ehh good enough LOL

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0593.jpg

okay so i pretty much sealed the top and bottom up of the enclosure and stuffed it with cotton - it helps keep everything in place and i made sure that the LED stayed in place and yepppp

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0594.jpg

cotton stuffing!

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0595.jpg

so just cleaning everything up and making sure the wiring is clean

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0596.jpg

i tied up my wires with some original ones because there still is a moving shifter so i dont want my wires to get tangled up in that - so its safe to just route with the original wires

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0597.jpg

alrite so the OP had a 2nd post of him tapping into the 2nd wire - well i just looped my wire and routed it behind the purple wire of the brown connector (passenger side seat warmer) and just e-taped it up so it wouldnt move.

 

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0599.jpg

similar tactic with the black wire - i decided to be lazy and just wire the negative into this socket because it was available but the purple wire was so the cup holders would light up with everything else - and not when the car is put into position 2 (which is when the 12v socket turns on)

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0601.jpg

here we go!

 

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h120/stupidaznmunkey/IMAG0602.jpg

I used silicon sealant because I couldn't find my hot glue gun. Holds it in nicely.

Can someone tell me what wires are connected.. as in pos and neg.. please.

My model doesn't come with it, I'd like to put it in, but the space is really small, I can hardly get to the wires to test them..

You're talking about the top light or cup holder light?

I had to replace my factory LED with one of the ones I used for my cup holders. I did something bad to it and I'm not sure, but it doesn't work anymore. So I unsoldered the factory LED thta is set into an electrical boad and wired in one of those blue LEDs from the parts store. Then to get it to aim right I had to make a plastic plate to hold it. I cut a small piece of Lexan and drilled three hols in it. Two for the screw holes and one for the LED to fit into. Now the light shines rigt down onto the shifter, coin holder area very well. I might even replace that thin, neutral density diffuser that I took out to get more light out of the original LED. It's pretty bright now.

That's what I did but I shaved a bit off the tip of the led to get it to fit against that diffuser

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Cool Nacron! I really want to get that plastic diffuser ring. It looks so much better with that in place.

 

BTW, I fixed my dome blue light. I did have it wired backwards. So now it comes on with the rest of the lights. And now it's aimed correctly too. I totally had to rebuild that light. Just becareful with the factory LED, it's fragile.

you reaimed the factory blue light in the map lights?

I thanked both you guys, but after realized you guys just gave me more work...

 

I opened mine up, there is a hole for the LED with a piece of film as not to blind anyone, so I'll sit it behind that seems easy.. I guess I'll just grab power from the wires going to the map light...

 

Can someone confirm 1)if this light is always on or 2)only on with the "night" lights or 3)on with the map lights?

please and thanks

On with the headlights. The positive wire you can use is the middle of the 3 that go to the maplight and the negative switched is the 2nd from the opposite side on the same row. I'll try to grab a pic of the inside of the map light soon.

I'm going to install this weekend and have been paying attention to this thread... The Blue led between the map lights topic has confused me since I read it (earlier in this thread). I'm going to look into it today cause If I end up adding it, I'll have to pick up an extra led.

the pack I got from checker/o'riley came with 3 for $7. I have the cubby light from my impreza I took out before they took my car to the auction. It seems the hole in the cubby is made for that module itself, but I'll have to fab up a connector to wire it in unless I hack the wiring that came with my footwell lights too just to get the connector.

The LED between the map lights came on '10 premium and up. i have base 2.5i. I made a little insert with a dvd case and just drilled a hole for the LED and 2 holes for the screws to hold it in. Had to dremel down nubs on the trim to make it lie flat. I might have to redo it as the LED shines on the arm rest and not the shifter as I think was the intention

This is my WIP Leggo. Trying to make it JDM as possible. Still need LED side mirrors, hellas installed, and carbon di-noc vinyl over the chrome trim, and other places....

Your mods make it look nothing like a japan model.

So do the JDM's We're catching up!

But the cup holders hold smaller cups. Comparatively in starbucks terms, there are no venti cups in japan. Grande is the largest they got

JDM have a folding lid over the cup holders that can nicely conceal them when not in use. (see centre pic). Not sure why US doesn't - are they worried about lawsuits if people try to put hot coffee in there and the lid is closed?

 

http://www.caradvice.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Subaru_Liberty_GT_108-625x304.jpg

I think the cup holders are smaller than the US one that's why it is different in the US. That's generally what it's like for JDM vs N/A

God no! The wires that come with these pre-wired LEDs are about 2 ft long. I actually cut them way down to attach the ends to the power supply. The tape is more than just duct tape, but it is only there to hold the wires down to they don't get tangled while installing the cover. I just wrapped a small amount arounf the two sets of wires to link them together so as to be easier to manage. There is no tape on exposed electrical wires.

 

Thanks for looking and commenting, but maybe you should look closer and fully understanding before accusing.

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't see crimps or shrink wrap but duct tape on your install so I automatically assumed that you used the tape to connect the LED wires to the harness. Your second install looks better.

Ohhhhhhh, ejector seats!!!!!!! I want that one, but I got no moon roof. Oh well!

 

I'm not going to install a switch just for those lights. I'll save that spot for something else, something bigger. Not sure what, yet...

 

The blue light in the dome always stays on, so why not these? Yeah It would be cool to wire them into the power for the seat heater switches, but so far my experience with tapping into existing power hasn't go too well with this car. I just can't seem to figure out the wiring colors and what is what.

 

By the way, where does the fog light switch go for those cars that came equiped with factory fog lights? Is the switch in the headlight location on that same stalk or is it a stand alone switch?

Just drill a hole in the cubby and throw a switch in there. You could wire other lights to it to make it like the actual kit. There is a hole above the cubby in front of the shifter where another LED goes with the OEM kit. You could also wire CFL or LED in the footwell area to that same switch.

The fog switch is in the stalk outside of the US, but in the US, the fog kit comes with a button that goes next to the mirror adjustment knob. Outside of the US it is the mirror folding switch there.

I saw another how to like this on the outback forum. I need to find me some prewired LEDs. Got the ring in my 2010.

Without the ring it looks like it could get dirty in there. Did you just cut and twist the wire on to the existing wire...and cover it with duct tape?! FYI, duct tape is EXTREMELY flammable when the adhesive dries. If you want to do it right, get some inline splicers or at least use electrical tape.

Gottta ask where did the door mirrors come from???

clearly, this is not a north american model.