RedDawg

Yes in post #11 with this image.

http://www.smart-service.com/images/store/pdmsnout.jpg

 

BCA# 614-147

or

NACHI# 60SCRN31T

about to have my clutch replaced, i already have a TSK3 kit on there, just wanted to double-check that i need to order the new bearing from one of the links above right?

Looks like he has a TMIC:

correct

Then you should have specified that you have a fmic not tmic

What do you need the actual flange for, if you don't mind me asking.

I put together an ebay DIY TMIC kit last year, and I couldn't find a proper flange last year for it so I welded a pipe onto a stock piece of metal, then just rounded the edges off and drilled the bolt holes.

I'd like to clean it up a bit this spring with a proper flange.

And maybe i'm calling it by the wrong name but i'm looking for a piece that's what's circled in this pic:

http://i39.tinypic.com/2agohs0.jpg

Do you mean flange or gasket? If gasket, go to Autozone and get a 350 Chevy reuseable thermostat gasket.

I need the actual flange.

thanks for the tip though.

looking forward to getting tuned in probably march through you, I was e-tuned last year from another vendor on here and am unhappy with the results.

In your opinion, is it worth it to go FMIC on the stock turbo if i'm planning to upgrade to an 18g eventually, or just stick with the TMIC and add a FMIC at the time of the turbo upgrade

i'll have a BP kit, unused but cut to size with all bolts, coming up for sale soon.

decided to go with an ebay TMIC kit instead.

well, dont i feel sheepish.

i couldve sworn it said to turn the car on though when i hit the "read ROM" button.

This is what someone PMed me a month back when we were troubleshooting getting the cable to work:

i tried this method on my win7-64bit laptop (using the latest ecuflash), and it finally connected to my ECU, but when i went to read the current ROM with ecuflash, the car would stall and wouldn't restart until i unplugged the vagcom cable. Nearly crapped my pants thinking i bricked it.

 

7. After the drivers have been installed, open EcuFlash. You should see something like the following window. Look at the bottom-right corner of EcuFlash; you should see something like FT232R USB UART A400fMIA. If you see this, the drivers have been installed correctly.

If you see something like "No Vehicle Interface," click here to manually change the drivers

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y175/academyracer/LGT%20flashing/4.jpg

 

 

 

bottom right for me says USB <-> SERIAL.

I continued with the installation instructions, everything else matched, but ECUFlash doesnt connect to my car when i tested everything.

any suggestions?

just be careful when u set the dremel down if you're constructing it on a table like i was. I had a towel down to protect the table, didnt let the dremel finish spinning and it snagged the towel.....

metal shavings and pieces of the BP kit EVERYWHERE!!!!

The BulletProof TMIC Mod has now become not only cheap to buy, it is easy to make as well.

 

Seemingly made just for this project, Dremel recently announced a product I wish had been there when I was making mine.

 

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=Dremel+Saw-Max%E2%84%A2&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=dremel%20saw&utm_campaign=SawMax%20Branded

i used a metal cutting wheel on my dremel and it worked just fine to make the kit.

i built the BPTMIC kit, just havent had a chance to install it yet.

its very simple, just be careful when you're drilling the holes in the long "beams". I used a towel on my dining room table, drill bit went through, bit into the towel, and spun everything including the metal shavings all over the dining room

I'm debating between borla and stromung to complete the turbo back, has anyone noticed if either of these have any drone at highway speeds? It's 100kms round trip to work and back everyday and I can't justify the price if my head is buzzing the whole time.

i have the msprank stromung and during highway cruising (i do ~400mile roadtrip to visit family a few times a year) u can barely hear it with the radio on. Above 4/5k rpms though, it's like "oh yea, i have an exhaust!"

OEM UP/DP

Stromung quad-tip CBE

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ib-X8aoqV3c]Legacy GT Stromung quad-tip exhaust - YouTube[/ame]

going to the track for the first time with the LGT.

I'm going to try mid/high 30psi fronts/low 40psi rears for tire pressure

blip the throttle and slip the clutch @ green, once it grabs then hammer it.

06 5spd

stage 1

track is basically sea level

a friend with a stock wrx ran 13.4 best 2 weeks ago.

what should i expect (assuming good launching/driving)?

been a few weeks now and no moisture in them after a few rains, some much cooler nights, etc. If they were ever going to fog up they wouldve done it by now.

I definetly recommended when you go to reseal them add a little of that black permatex silicone in the seam ontop of the existing sealant. Press them together, rebake for 5min, and press them together some more. Then line the exterior of the seal with a thin layer of the permatex.

That's what i did and they've been perfect so far <knock on wood>.

^

after my story you had to throw in your story lol. sigh maybe just a bad day

sorry about your bad luck, i think the 08+ are a lot more pita to remove than 05/06s. I broke one of the clips that attach to the grille, but for whatever odd coincidence when i purchased my used grille off of this forum the seller included one clip still attached to it

finally did this over the weekend. Took a little over an hour to get the bumper & grille off. The grille took a little more force to remove, those felt pads on it were stuck to the bumper. Not that i know the process, no more than 30sec to remove it.

And may the man who invented pop-its be cursed. Holy crap were those things a pain in the ass.

Got the headlights off, i did the cookie sheet lined with newspaper method with the oven @ 225°. 1st headlight, with me freaking out and checking it every 5min, it probably took about 25min before it was hot enough to pry apart. One note though, if you're using newspaper, be aware that when it heats up the ink on the newspaper will create smoke. I nearly crapped myself when i opened the oven and billow of smoke poured out, i thought my lights were fried.

After clearing, i layed a thin line of that black permatex silicone over the existing sealant, squeezed the lights together, reheated them for 5min, and pressed them together again. Then i put a thin coating of the sealant over the seam around the light, let them sit for about an hour, and reinstalled them.

Washed the car sunday, had some low temps last night, so far <knock on wood> no moisture or foggin within the lights.

one other tip, if you're buying new turn signal bulbs to replace the amber ones, buy them beforehand, it seems like it would be difficult to replace them after the lights are reinstalled (removal of the battery and airbox to access the bulb socket).