apexi

I disagree, what I'm hearing in the videos is not piston slap, piston slap makes more of a knocking/loud tapping sound which I don't hear. In the video I hear a normal Subaru sound my car has been making for 10 years and 231k. Everything will be fine, drive the car and enjoy it.

A couple small things.. I know it shouldn't be necessary, but make sure you're correctly reading the dipstick. From the owners manual, page 11-12. "5. 2.5L models: Check the oil levels on both sides of the level gauge. The engine oil level must be judged by the lowest of the two levels. If the oil level is below the low level mark, add oil so that the full level is reached." Also, if the dealer does overfill, I know that's frustrating, but I wouldn't assume they're doing it on purpose. The technician could just be refilling using the amount of oil spec'ed in the manual, but since there's always going to be a little residual oil that doesn't drain out, it'll look a little overfilled.

I have an '09 legacy, but I think that's the same exact noise my car makes at times, kinda freaked me out when I first bought the car. It sort of sounds like a helicopter to me. With my car, I think I have to hold the rpms at around 2400-2600rpm to hear it, I can't remember exactly. It's much easier to produce the sound when going uphill, but with my car it is possible to hear it going straight too. As you said, holding the throttle steady is also the best way to create the sound. I think that's just a normal characteristic of horizontally opposed engines.

Be careful with them, especially since you mention being from MN. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/psa-reminder-frozen-aos-cans-249965.html?t=249965

The factory service manual makes me think it's a wiring issue, not sure if it could be a bad ground somewhere too.

Diagrams aren't the best, I'll post anyway since they might help. Legacy instructions start on page 7. https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/resources/installation/SPD/18_063791-h621sxa100.pdf

If I'm reading this right, both the internal and external threads on the snubber are 1/8-28 bspt https://www.omega.com/manuals/manualpdf/M1180.pdf

There's a member here named Dishwasher that made a great point that I always forget about, which is that there are two other areas to inspect other than the joint connector. I mean, in your situation there's really no need because that upper right one looks pretty bad.. but I thought I'd mention it anyway. There are random documents floating around online which go over the inspection areas, the link below has part of one. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dealership-denied-rusted-brake-line-repair-recall-smoking-guni-269642.html Here are a couple random pictures from my car that I took a couple months ago, I think these are the other areas that are supposed to be inspected. One of the pictures is a little random, and it's hard to gauge exactly where it is, but I think it's closest to the back seat. From what I've read here, once Subaru inspects the area and applies the anti-corrosion wax, that's it. If it wasn't leaking at the time of inspection, they have no obligation to fix it after that. However... there have been cases of people here pushing, and Subaru giving in and still replacing the brake lines years after the inspection was done, and the anti-corrosion wax was applied. So I don't know... I think it's unlikely that they'll give the parts to a diyer. The good news is that the parts aren't too super expensive, but still.. it'd be nice if Subaru did cover that cost. *Actually I'm an idiot. I took the pictures below in September, and I just realized I think the red box and picture #2 are the same thing. There's actually a third area that could fail as well.

Here's the pdf contained in that link *and the full link as well https://drive.google.com/file/d/13GDnfLPA_YwQfC05BGwS-lvhJUTNRfH5/view?usp=sharing 2005-Legacy GT Comprehensive Bushing List.pdf

I got that tool years ago, and I'm probably just using it wrong, but I could not get a consistent reading at all with that thing. I just gave up and checked how many mm's of belt deflection I had where the fsm says to check.

Yeah, worth a try having the dealer update your head unit. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2018-h-k-stereo-very-unhappy-271004.html post #13 "1- No streaming audio. When using the Pandora® app, there is no audio output."

If the clamp near the reservoir is a little wet, I wonder if that's just from a little foam/fluid coming out by the cap, and going down to the hose. Not sure about the cold vs warm symptoms. Maybe the belt is old or too loose, and when it's warm it gets more flexible and is able to grip the pulleys better? Shot in the dark, but who knows.. *I almost forgot, the o-ring on the top of the pump could be expanding when warm, and sealing properly then.

It's abnormal for your car to stutter and want to die in those situations, unless you recently had the battery disconnected. I definitely don't think those symptoms are from the power steering switch. I've had to replace my power steering pump a few times, one time I completely forgot to connect the electrical wire going to the switch, and my car didn't do anything to let me know, I had to visually notice it a few days later. Have you done the o-ring fix yet, where the plastic elbow on top connects to the pump? full thread https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/power-steering-o-ring-fix-197481.html good picture https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5091736&postcount=115 If so, I'd also consider the o-ring on the reservoir cap. Where is the hose going from the reservoir to the pump leaking? For the stuttering and such, I'd wonder about your spark plugs and wires to start I guess, age and what kind you're running.

Excellent information, thanks guys. I'd be looking at a 2018 or 2019.

I don't want to make my own post about this, so I was hoping to sneak in here and ask a quick question about eyesight, lane keeping assist, and all that.. When driving, I often have to cross over the two yellow lines in order to pass cyclists. What would eyesight do in that situation? Would it start beeping, and would the steering try to pull me back into the lane? I know I could just go test drive a car with eyesight, but I don't really want to do that just yet.

There are a bunch of youtube videos that cover parasitic draw, I'd try giving what they say a try. I like eric o's videos, he's got a few parasitic draw videos humble mechanic is a smart dude too free wiring diagrams https://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/

have you tried the auto ac diagnostics? I think that's supposed to test the mode door actuators. This video might help too. I'd see if the diagnostics tests can pinpoint a faulty part, and if not, I'd pull out the glovebox and stuff and see if I can see the actuators moving when I change modes.

I don't know why, but this thread reminds me of this (nsfw, swearing) and now I really want a damn sandwich...

Not sure when I first noticed it, maybe a week or so ago? The site has been going noticeably slower, like taking 5-10 seconds to load. It's no big deal, I know it's not my pc/connection, just wondering if anyone else has noticed, or if the admins know of a problem. Edit 8/23: With how slow the site is going, if you don't want to read the other pages, here's an update: 8/24, post #106 There's also some more info in the posts after #106.

In your shoes, I would also have the dealer do the work with that price difference. and I completely agree with your example below, this is all I was trying to say. "My argument against "one time use" is this. Let's say I have the timing belt done. I drive the car once and realize I now need head gaskets. Would you seriously put in a new timing belt after driving it once? If so, please explain why." These are cars, they don't last forever. When I'm bored, I like watching the south main auto channel on youtube. He's a shop owner in New York, you should see the cars he works on, 10 year old cars are falling apart from rust. I would not be able to justify a head gasket job of $3800 on a 13 year old car. If I lived in CA, TX, FL, things might be different, because that 13 year old car could have a lot more life left in it. With that said, I have no idea how rusty WA state cars get. So for a dealer to do the job for half the price, yes, I'd go that route too. As far as the quality of work goes, sure, dealers might do the job a little different than an independent shop would. But at the same time, do you think that tech wants to see a head gasket job roll back into his bay to be done a second time?

I've never owned a car with a serpentine belt. If it runs the power steering pump and fails, that could be a lot more than an inconvenience. That is potentially worse than an engine failing. Yet, people have no problem taking off and reusing power steering belts all the time.

Dude, I have a lot of respect for you, I know you know your stuff, it just seems like a scare tactic, and a lie to say that a belt is one time use.

That's what I was thinking. If I were the shop, I'd want to replace the belt too, so I completely understand where they're coming from. However, saying it's "one time use" is sort of misleading in my opinion though..

I'm no expert, but a timing belt is one time use....? How long ago did you have your timing belt done? Yeah, it's not a bad idea to replace it while you're doing the job, but it's a belt.. If it's in good condition and was done recently.. I don't know..

I can't remember what symptoms I had a few years ago, but... I accidentally damaged one of the wires going to the sensor a few years ago when putting my radiator back into the car, at least I think that's what happened. My temperature display was doing something funny, either the temperature wasn't changing, or it was showing ERR too... So basically, maybe check the wires? *Actually, my memory stinks sometimes... You can see in the picture below how the wires are a little chewed up near the connector.. I'm not sure how that happened, but that was the culprit for my problem. I don't think I did that putting my radiator back in after all. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=231117&d=1464391908