frank_ster

Hey Frank, didn't you figure out how to wire up a switch to lock the converter?

Yes it can be done , however the sport light will flash and many trans functions will be disabled.

Only way of doing so would make the car think its manual and then use a stand alone tcu or even just a set of switches to control the trans

not it does not it feels normal. When i give it more gas it would not even rev up. but when i put it in park it does. very weird almost as if it was a safety feature to prevent you from riding on your brakes while reversing.

This sounds like the "ok to send power" signal from tcu.

For instance if you put it in drive while giving throttle the enggine will continue ideling. Untill the trans is fully in gear.

You have have either a selector switch issue ( the tcu may not see the shifter is fully in reverse, or one of the pressure sensors is having an issue.

Over cooling isnt bad normally , but the tcu wants the trans to be in a certain temp range , if the tcu was cracked and modified or with aftermarket tcu, the happy temperature range would be much larger.

I have provided data logs of runs the same evening with only the cooling fans forced to high speed and everything else stock made the car slower as the tcc was inhibited down the 1/4 mile as the tcu was trying to warm the trans up! . The engine coolant temp was constant as the engine thermostat took care of that. But the bottom of the rad where the trans cooler is cooled off big time!

^ maybe you should check youtube for torque converter function,

the lock and unlock of torque converter is controlled by the computer.

the lock up improves power throughput and efficiency making the automatic as efficient as a manual.

you could install a toggle switch to control the lockup but the computer will not be happy about it.

I got a question for you 5EAT owners out there. Does anyone else have to give it more gas in reverse to get it to move? It always feels like its labored and dosnt want to move .

The reverse ratio is slightly higher than 1st gear , so its normal to be a little bit more sluggish

Well there isnt realy anything special. And this should probably only

Be done with a 6mt swap and large rear diff. Or custom 5eat with mustang or corvette irs rear diff.

not that i know of ..

there is a problem with a part of the trans , but that should not affect the rest of it. as its just setting an error because its not behaving as expected , the code will likely be only set when in manual 1st gear

p1798 first gear engine brake clutch pressure malfunction .

might be a problem in the valve body or the trans clutch piston seals

fluid change likely wont help .

you can disable p0700 in the rom with open source and the check engine light wont come back on for any trans related issues , but the codes will still be visible.

the 1st gear engine brake is only used in first gear and for engine braking. so you should not get stuck anywhere because of this issue.

I doubt the stock ecu will work with the 4 eat.

You could make the ecu think its manual and then use stand alone trans control unit like megashift from megasquirt.

Or do even more basic with 2-3 micro switches and a ratchit shifter and you will have full manual controle auto as i have done in the past.

the 4 eat appears to be stronger because it doesnt have a center diff ( except the vdc models)

if you want to use a 5 eat and use only the front differential your going to have to weld something up. it may or may not be reliable as the gear set isn't meant for all the power on one differential. i have removed my center diff and made it selective rwd or 4wd. but then i broke the rear diff shortly after.

This thread is regarding Subaru P2138 code with dual contact potentiometers and factory ECU's. The later models have magnetic Hall effect sensors. To avoid confusing other Subaru owners plagued with this issue, I think your comments regarding a Buick with standalone ECU and magnetic Hall effect sensors belong in another forum.

buick engine, all subaru sensors, this thread was started with issues with a 05 legacy gt witch is what i have. i only mentioned the buick engine because i have played with the system and had this even triggered a few times because of my doing and after because of metal chips in the stock subaru throttle body unit.

so it seems you have an older version of drive by wire. that i have not seen before.

From my experence this code is for both the throttlebody and the pedal sensor , as i have a buick engine and stand alone ecu along side of the factory ecu. Wheni probed the wires on the theottle body i could recreate the code everytime .

The pedal assembly and the throttle body have magnetic contactless position sensors with inverted curves. One ramping up with poaition and one down . If the sensors dont point to the same position the code is set and lompmode acticated.

My throttle body when i remove it has a plastic cover where the plug plugs into. I removed that cover and cleaned the metal bits of the magnetic pickup and that solved my issue.

If you even force open the servo with your finger with ignition on it will also set this code.

the cover on the throttle body, it has the sensor in side of the cover which reads the magnetic pickup from the throttle plate .

i dont think oil can cause issues with this type of sensors.

^ thank you for your input.

have you tried cleaning under the cap of the throttle plate ?

Pic of 5 eat dipstick

Realy shouldnt matter witch direction you stick the dipstick in .

As the full value is still inside the tube .

In an auto trans there is no gears coming in and out of mesh,

It could be your trans mount is rotten and with the harsh engine breakingg the trans is moving and there may be metal on metal contact somewhere

^ yea a lot of people dont understand how the torque converter works.

Come to complete stop. And go full throttle in auto mode does it go ?

Then Use manual mode and go full throttle in each gear.

If a gear is slipping it will shoot to revlimiter.

Usually the gear chanhes get mushy before full on slipping

If i put in the dipstick with the labelled side facing the radiator..... it shows no level.

 

But if i put the dipstick labelled side facing away from radiator... it shows overfill....... now which is correct level???

HELLLPPPPP

Dip stick is possibly bent in a way that its out of the oil. But its odd the auto trans mission the dipstick goes pretty much strait in .

In auto trans its better lower oil level then over full.

As it has pump and sucks from the bottom and that oil is pressure fed throught the trans.

To low oil you would gear the trans pump cavatate ( wining noise )