RustyShackleford

My 2006 Outback (2.5L 5MT 130,000miles) suddenly developed a noise today. 1. It's a whirring noise, kinda like a playing card on a kid's bicycle spokes, 2. Its's sync'd with rolling speed, regardless of engine RPM or transmission/clutch position. 3. It's bad during deceleration (braking or coasting) and goes away under acceleration. 4. It came on suddenly today - from un-noticeable to "yikes, this is serious" - in less than 30 miles. 5. Driving, I thought maybe it was coming from one of the passenger-side wheels; wife thought it was coming from driver's side or from the center. I imagine tranny/driveshaft/differential is why I used this forum. I know it doesn't sound anything like any wheel bearing failure I've ever heard, and it doesn't seem related to brakes (except deceleration causes it, but it doesn't matter if it's from braking or from coasting). I checked the transmission oil earlier today.

Uh, sorry to be a dope, but which generations is this for, what is a BL/BP Legacy ?

So, powered from USB, but sends audio via BT ? DIdn't know these HUs had BT capabilty. Oh well, I bought one of those little thing that goes in the 1/8" cable (like the one I linked above), only $9, and we'll see how it works.

I have the aux-in version of the dual-HVAC-control head-unit. Aux-in is connected to a 3PDT switch which selects between two 3.5mm-1/8" minijacks (switch and jacks mounted in the upper cubby). Sirius/XM is plugged into one minijack and it sounds fine. It's powered from a little PS I built at the back of the cubby, so very close to the minijacks. With my iPod, pretty bad RPM-dependent whine (alternator I guess). The iPod is connected using a Y-cable that connects to a USB (for power) and the other minijack (for audio). I'm thinking it's a ground loop, because (on the Y cable) the USB plugs into an adapter at the lighter outlet, pretty far from the cubby, and moving the cable around changes the noise from almost non-existent to really bad. Also, unplugging the USB makes it go away (but drops volume and iPod will go dead eventually). I guess the common on the stereo jack is connected to ground. I could disconnect that, but then the return audio signal would go through the USB. Or disconnect the 5vdc ground, but then the audio common would have to carry the power current too. Has anyone had much luck with these things for similar issues ? https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=asc_df_B06XQYN77L/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076596450&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9082638695618061545&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021039&hvtargid=pla-350233567378&psc=1

The twisted pair wires from the HU going into the tweeter, and the wires that lead from the tweeter to the big speaker, are crimped together in the connector that plugs into the tweeter - so they are exactly the same signal. I agree that grabbing the twisted pair that comes into the tweeter to drive the inputs to the new crossover is the cleanest way to do things. I said all this in my comments on the video - the guy seemed annoyed that I was pointing this out. Thanks for explaining the plastic to me. I won't feel bad about cutting a few extra holes in it. I did it so I could attach the crossover to something solid, which I did using that double-sided 3M automotive tape - mainly used for molding I think, looks like good stuff.

Actually, there's a pretty glaring error in the video. He says the audio signal (from the head unit) goes to the tweeter, which then "processes it" and sends it on to the lower speaker; so he cuts that signal where it goes into the tweeter and uses that as the input to the crossover. That will work. But there's no processing in the tweeter. The signal from the HU is simply connected to the wires that go down to the lower speaker (that's why there are 4 wires going into the tweeter connector). So you could just as easily drive the crossover from the wires that go to the lower speaker, and just leave the tweeter connector dangling. I think the way the video does it is cleaner, and that's what I did, but the way he describes it is misleading.

Can some MODERATOR please change my thread title to something a bit more helpful for people looking for this information ?

Well I'm glad I looked at that. I assumed the crossover was meant to be driven by the wire pair that goes to the main (lower 6-1/2") speaker. Crutchfield strongly implied that by giving me a harness that plugs into the connector for that lower speaker (with spade terminals at the other end); I guess it's for use if you're just replacing the main speaker and shouldn't been included with my order. BTW, what is the point of the plastic sheeting on the inside of the door. I'd think to block air infiltration, but it's way too hole'y to do any good there. It's kinda in the way and I'm tempted to just rip it all out. I'm not planning to do anything fancy with sound deadening and the like.

SORRY ABOUT SILLY THREAD NAME, APPARENTLY CAN'T EDIT IT NOW I've purchased a JBL 601C "component" speaker system for my '06 Outback, which includes 6-1/2" speakers to replace the stock lower front-door speakers and tweeters to replace the stock tweeters. I intend to drive this from the stock head-unit (without a separate amp or sub). I want to verify the information Crutchfield has given me, which is that: I should use the crossover supplied with the new speakers; drive the crossover inputs from the wires going to the stock lower front-door speakers; leave the wires that were attached to the stock tweeters disconnected; and drive the new 6-1/2" and tweeter from the crossover. Does this sound about right ? I'm wondering why not drive them from the stock crossover already in the car.

Dollies. (Set rear wheels each on a little two-wheeled cart that they strap to the wheel. Pick up front wheels as normal). Guy claims he tows for the Subaru dealer all the time.

It was simply the clutch; got that and flywheel replaced. I'm still perplexed it didn't show signs of slipping when I tested within a few hundred miles previous (put in 5th gear at 20mph and floor it). I've had previous Subarus that were slipping for quite awhile before I got around to having them serviced.

Well, it's done. They wanted to charge me $728 for parts, $1328 for labor, minus $30 "Subaru parts discount", minus $80 "non-Subaru labor discount" (wonder what that means ?), plus sales tax (including on the labor). The parts charge seems reasonable given what's been posted here (for OEM full-price). The labor is way high - they said it was 8hrs at $155/hour (which doesn't even quite compute). I pushed back and said "book" was 4.8-5.1 (based on what people have said here and at the other forum). Woman said she couldn't do anything, but I could keep loaner and we could try to work it out with manager; I was like "no, I want my car now". So she went and "talked to manager" and came back and said 6hrs labor was the best they could do. So I took it, paid $1326 out of pocket with my $500 goodwill coupon (which I got awhile back for bitching about sticky dashboard). So I still kinda got screwed. This is a pretty expensive area, is the only justification. But I should've had it towed to an independent garage, like you guys said, and just bought the parts with the $500 coupon. P.S. Flywheel they installed was 12310AA36A; is that SMFW or DMFW ?

Thanks for the help guys, but I already gave the go-ahead, in fact the car is probably ready now. Would've had to tow it to another shop otherwise. All I can do now is bitch at them when I pick it up, using the info you've given me here as ammunition, and I guess threatening to make a complaint to SOA if they don't budge. Oh by the way, they gave me the quote before I mentioned the coupon.

Too late. My only hope is to push back on the charges - anyone, particularly dealer people, got hints on that ? I'll try to take small comfort in the fact that I didn't try very hard to get the $500 goodwill voucher - just bitched about the sticky dashboard - and with it the charges won't be all that crazy.

Well, $2200 is what they quoted me (with flywheel). Thing is, car broke down and was un-drivable, so I got it towed there free by State Farm. Anyhow, it's being done, my only hope is to push back against what thy want to charge. I have notes where they quoted $1550 (perhaps before tax) awhile back, so I kinda wonder if they charge differently for "elective" and towed-in (which would be outrageous of course).

What's a reasonable price for a clutch job at a dealership ? With flywheel ? I realize a dealership tends to be more expensive, but I have a $500 "good will" coupon that expires soon and nothing much else I need to spend it on. I'm pretty much committed to the dealership anyhow, but want to try not to get ripped off too badly.

Oh well, it's on a tow truck on the way to dealer. Out of my hands. We shall see. Thanks much for the commiserations !

She denies any odd noises. I just looked at it myself, and couldn't figure anything. It shows NO sign of trying to move when I put it in any of the 5 gears and let out the clutch. Clutch pedal feels normal, and slave cylinder and the fork appear to be moving normally. There is a smell, kind of like burning wiring, but I imagine could be the clutch disc spinning. Looked to see if front half-axles are spinning where they come out of tranny, and nothing. Did NOT look to see if tranny linkage seems to be moving normally, but is it possible to even see that, from above at least ? One of my local buddies mentioned the failure somewhere in tranny too. But said they'd really never heard of such a thing in Subie trannys, and if something like a u-joint/cv-joint broke, wife would've noticed some sort of noise, a clunk or something. Yeah, with that $500 coupon will tow to Sube dealer. Clutch R&R is outside my skill level. Have to hope the dealer doesn't insist on replacing flywheel if not needed, but that coupon expires on election day, and there's nothing else really coming up to use it on. If it's something beyond a simple clutch job, will have to decide if it's worth it to fix.

Wife just got a ride home, Outback is in a parking lot a few miles away. Apparently the car got where it wouldn't go over 40mph, and now, according to her, it won't move at all. You can put it in gear, let out the clutch pedal, and it doesn't move and the engine revs up. So somehow the engine is decoupled from the tranny. Failure modes I've seen before, the clutch will not release: the cable (in older vehicles) broke, or the hydraulics are messed up, or the throwout bearing or its yoke broke. I tested the clutch for slippage a few days back (put into 5th gear at low speed and tried to rev engine) and it seemed fine. But car does have 130K miles, far more than I've ever gotten from a Subie clutch before. Does this make any sense to anyone ? Oh well, I've got towing insurance and a $500 goodwill coupon that expires soon. And like I said, 130K miles, so I was figuring on replacing the clutch fairly soon anyhow. I'm just bewildered about this failure mode.

Man, I'm confused. Are you guys talking about being able to install new speakers without removing the door panels ? Making spacers for your new speakers out of the old speakers ?

Thanks, but don't think I want to spend that much. They don't seem to have a Group 35 either.

Wondering if anyone here does much car camping, where they need deep-cycle capability ? I've used a couple Optima Yellowtops over the past 10 years, worked fine, and I'm ready for another. Have read that Optima has gone downhill recently, so I'm looking at alternatives like Northstar AGM or Duralast Platinum. Some of those mention that car alternators aren't good at charging them back up after deep discharge, maybe even causing alternator damage, but like I said I've had no problem with the Optima. Mine car isn't Gen 6, but I imagine the issue are the same, except my car specs a Group 35 (same size as 25, but terminals on opposite side).

Or install a switch such as this one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/611-7301P3YZQE

But it stops putting pressure on the clutch pedal as soon as you open the bleeder, doesn't it, so won't push the pedal all the way to the floor ? Wow really, so without bleeding at all, just suctioning out the reservoir and re-filling it ? I did do a bleed, just with the slave cylinder's bleeder and an assistant. When opening the bleeder, the pedal went straight to the floor and stayed there. Just moving it back and forth with my hand re-pressurized it; not exactly the behavior I was expecting. Did this about half-dozen times so flushed a good bit of new fluid thru there. I think it improved things a little but not much.

Fluid is as old as the car, I believe; I change out the brake fluid every year or two, but never done the clutch. It looks like there's bleed valves on the master and slave cylinders both. I appreciate your responses, but I still am not sure what you're suggesting I do.