Soda Popinski

I used the same stage 2 cobb suspension kit (coils over stock struts) and had no rubbing issues in the rear. In fact IIRC it lowers the car 1.75" front, 1.5" rear. I used cobb front/rear sways and perrin end links all around (cobb was out of stock for the links). Looks good!

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/cherrybloom203/legacy%20gt/IMG_1369.jpg Summer wheel time again!

Most of the speakers mentioned in the OP are obsolete, as the 05 is now 6 years old... most manufacturers do not even make those models anymore. Is there a newer list of models somewhere for door speakers/deck? I went to best buy just to even look around and they were trying to tell me I had 4" speakers in my back door instead of the back deck... which I doubt.

Spotted a few LGT's in philly after the football game. Was at the Link, saw a few during the shenanigans of the post-game parking lot mass exodus. Who else was out there?

Spotted a dark 05/06 on the merge from 2 into 84 east. Much lobe for the car but you drive like a douche. Saw you pull up on me and checkin my car. Then you proceeded to do 100+ while weaving through 5 lenes of traffic on a highly congested highway. And one pull where you crossed all 5 lanes made everyone slam on the breaks. Not cool. I got off in manchester. Dunno if you went 84 e or ti the right. Slow down and stop driving reckless with passengers in heavy traffic. One love

I'm not feelin the lip under the lip under the lip though. First thing that popped into my head was "bookshelf wing". Looks like you took spats off the back and put it under the lip under the factory lip. The body line under the nose looks like lots of rolls... not the smooth lines of the rest of the car. I would use one or the other, but not both. my 2 cents

From the get-go, I was told by agile that you can't tune a 5EAT because of the slippage. Thus, in any of my tunes, I was never given a hard number for performance. only an "around" number. It's "around 275-285ish". that kind of thing. When asking about the TMIC/FMIC question, I was told that perrin/avo were all bling and the stock is the most efficient. When cleaning my engine bay for a car show one day, I found all kinds of tool marks, broken plastic, missing popits, stripped bolt heads, missing bolts, missing panels (in the undertray), the left wheel well skirt installed OVER the fender and the right wheel well skirt under it. The undertray installed wrong, the tune failing on the way home... 8+ hours each visit because other customers cars took longer, so I just sat in the waiting room all day... the exit hose on my TMIC was crammed on and cranked down, krimping the gasket under the worm gear. the gasket itself was cut and sliced almost in half, the "sucking noise" that sounded like a balloon squeeking that i HEARD on the way home from my 4th tune, I Was told it was the fuel pump, and to rectify the boost creep/fuel cut they just turned the tune down from 18 to 17psi without diagnostics. Driving 2 months in limp node/no boost during a tuning issue. I've had other places look at the car's performance since then, and everyone has told me the car is tuned way to rich and is wasting gas. (I'm waiting because I just got hired after 7 months, and I'll get a perrin tmic). I have never had someone there simply say "I don't know" when faced with a new problem. I get the run-around off-the-cuff bullsh*t answers. I've never felt like a priority when I was there. Locals would walk in and out of the store while I was there trying to buy parts, or get advice and was always told to wait while they chatted, with me standing there with money in hand. Prime example was once I brought the car in for 8 am to have a fuel pump / injector install, and tune. I didn't leave until closing time, and that's when the car failed on the way home. The reason for the long install? A customer unexpectedly showed up after missing a previous appointment and they wanted to fit him in, so they bumped me back. I'd say if you have anything other than a STi, a WRX or a Legacy with a MT... stay away. Even if you DO have those, check the work with a fine tooth comb. I've found more missing/scratched/cut/broken parts that makes me feel it would have been worth it to learn to install it/buy the parts myself. And I never got that satisfied customer feel. Always a "thanks for the money... next!" feeling. just a number.

Let's see. Stage 2 brought me up to about 4500 bucks. Did suspension, brakes, turbo back, intake, access port. cobb ss catback exhaust, $1100 invidia catted downpipe for 5eat: $750 cobb accessport $550 cobb SF airbox stage 2 $300 cobb stage 2 suspension kit: $500 IIRC stoptech stage 2 rotors with steel lines, hawk pads, IIRC: 500? motul fluids swapped in and some dealership labor, misc accessory parts: just about 800 BLOWN MOTOR from stage 2: (paid half with subaru) $4000 after all the work and parts BLOWN TURBO from dealership not flushing the oil out of the turbo, not covered by warrantee: (VF-52) $650 TUNES and RETUNES from Agile Automotive in Maryland: $800 Fuel upgrade: 08 STi fuel pump, 770dw injectors: $450 Future upgrades to do: COBB XSF (I think) bypass valve: $300 PERRIN TMIC: $850 Retune again because I simply don't trust what Agile did anymore: $250 ish. probably $11000+ in 2 years

IMO you should have got the black brembos, since they would be sleek with your wheels. IMO the red ones stick out too much and detract from the wheels a bit. I came in here to say that QSM is definately the head turner... I get complimented on the color of my LGT almost DAILY.

Why bother listing free things?

I'd sooner buy a nicer car than spend 30k on a suspension upgrade on an (obviously he believed it) flaw in the design of the original car. Why not get a porsche at that point.

I was going to remove it, but other than aesthetics... after reading your write up on it... what possible benefits do you gain other than blocking cel's? Is there any real advantage to removing this?

damn lol, why not get a new car... built motors are too expensive a shot to drop on these cars.... what's it up to, 16,000 for the h4?

I installed the following mods myself: Invidia Downpipe Cobb CBE Cobb Heat shield Cobb SF Airbox w/ intake STi performance gauge pack Cobb Front and rear Sway bars Perrin End Links Stoptech Stage 2 slotted rotors Hawk HPS pads It took me 2 days, about 10 hours each day 'under the car' with all the tools, by myself to get it on with no leaks. Since PA has some retarded rule that you can't have a pit in your garrage to work on your cars (just about the dumbest rule I can think of) I had to do it with almost 2" clearance around me on jackstands. The only thing I couldn't do myself was remove the OEM springs and do the stainless steel brake lines. That cost me 900 at the dealership.

I'm probably in the hole about $7,000 by now.

I wasnted to revisit this; I installed a COBB stage 2 suspension kit to my 09 USDM legacy. I love it. But COBB end links were backordered, so I used the Perrin end links (front and rear) and I have not had any problems with them. The end links came with some nice sized spacers. Because of your writeup, I am not conisdering shaft collars to reinforce the bar in the front from sliding. You got me worried... unless they made some corrections in the last 2 years. How has it been working out for you all this time?

What about that blank tab near the gauge brightness / mirror adjustment / traction control panel? There's a blank tab in the middle on my car.

I dunno, the profile seems kinda high. Any way to flush mount it?

Spec-B has bluetooth? The f*ck?

BTW you can buy a whole pack of washers at wal-mart for .52 cents. LOL

"creatively frugal" is more like it... haha I'm still going to get a real exhaust turboback, because I want the car to pass inspection, but for now, it stays.

I used a standard 1/4 inch socket wrench with a 14mm socket about 2" long. I had to hold the socket when I put it on and twisted the socket backwards (clicking it) until it fit on, and wiggled it back and forth to 'tuck' the wrench between the trunk and the side. You don't have to even hold the wrench, just use another socket wrench to take the nut off the other side. - one down note (no pun intended) about this; I used 2 washers. Inside the car, it sounds awesome. Going through a tunnel it was loud, but when I opened the throttle up, it sounded more like a hole in the exhaust. When the throttle is open 3/4 or more, I get a wooshing rapping noise that sounds like a leaking exhaust instead of a purr. Otherwise it's nice. People have asked if my car was an STi.

I know the sound you talk about, but I don't get it on mine, even if I'm doing 70 or freeway speeds. There's a little bar that pops up there... odd.