JDMg3

As for the drive shafts.... In the picture on page 5 it looks like theyre different lengths, might just be the angle the picture was taken though. Does the whole driveshaft have to be replaced or just the center bearing? Just wondering because having the bearing shipped would be WAY easier than the whole drive shaft.

wow its been a long time since I was here. Been busy building new home.

Driveshaft bearing support is different. I swapped the whole driveshaft but some guy simply leave it but its at a small angle.

I am not sure if you can change the support and bearing only.

try -

legacy transmission cross member

legacy cross member

legacy cradle

legacy transmision mount

What did you search for?

I did a quick search on ebay and cant find any at the moment but ask this guy

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-sw-pa-tons-parts-2005-black-legacy-gt-limited-182984.html

Well I have everything I need to do this, just need to find 15 and 18

 

Nobody seems to have them.

 

Anybody know where to maybe get these?

 

I keep finding auto cars but no 5 speed cars to get these off of

Try http://car-part.com/ or Ebay.

I found mine on ebay.

In regards to Post #30 (not gonna quote it because it's huge and I'm not a noob anymore hahaha)...

 

Would all/most of this information also hold true for a 3rd Gen. Outback vs. a 3rd Gen. LGT? I'm considering coilovers on my OB at some point (probably KW's), and I want to know if most of this info. lines up so I can swap them and do a good job.

 

Although the coilovers will probably come during/after a 6MT swap I also want to do, so some of these parts will likely get changed out regardless hahaha.

Yes most but do some research,....I did my previous 2nd gen by trial and error cause more parts were easily available but this one i did my research.

Yep. Bothers me that there is no bumpstop provision, though.

We'll see,....I should have installed my megans UCA in a week or so!!!!

Actualy the mounts are all the same for GT or OBXT. The front subframe spacers lower the engine and the 2 tranny cross bracket of the tranny sub frame are shapped defferently to lower the tranny so no spacers there. Look at the pictures on page 5 and I tried to show it best I could.

For previous question,......yes the whole rear subframe assembly does have spacers. They are shows on page 2.

Thx for that,.....I dont have time do go over the list again right now (i'm in the middle of a new self build home construction project planning,... and soon building) but all info on part number and prices can be found on those 2 sites.....

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ ............part number

http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ ......prices

no,.....the WL kit helps for alignement adjustement but will not give extra UCA clearance needed.

Trailing arm does not need to be changed.

On JDM/EDM versions, swapping out the OB upper suspension arm (cast steel unit) with legacy version will automatically give you more travel since the Legacy version is less "chunky"

 

So I assume the USDM is also similar.

Yes that is correct and its the same for USDM. Look at the picture on page 5 and you can see that they are less chunky. Still I replaced the bump stop to get even more travel! Same as a LGT.

Awesome! I really need to get those upper control arms. I haven't installed the trailing arm brackets or removed my spacers yet, I should probably wait until I get the control arms and just do it all at once. Right?

Well you could do it after but might as well do it all at once.

I have not drived the car lowered without removing the spacer but what I can say is that right now the car feels very tight, direct and sporty. Also very responsive. Way more than it was and thats thx to the rack and the front lca bushings. I have not driven it on the hwy or taken any real good corner yet so more to come...

The rack

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6576.jpg

And here is the result....will get better pics later

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6609.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6608.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6606.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6602.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6601.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6600.jpg

Fiting the 18x9.5 +30 was petty easy. I have no rubbing what so ever, even at full slammed. Now I have raised it a little since I hate riding on the bump stops and I haul 2 small ones. The fender in the rear, platic is cut and fender rolled flat. Front fenders, plastic is cut and fender was cut 1.5in high for about 10in over the wheel. Only had to get rid of one plastic clip that hold the flare. Now I have plenty of room and I have about 1.75 camber front and 1 rear.

Will get pictures of fender work later.

Now here are all the parts and the diferences.

Exaust center heat sheild. Its deeper and gives the room for the exaust and tucks in close to the GT driveshaft that is deeper in the tunel

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6547.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6546.jpg

Front spacer removed and the difference in the bolt is not the length but the amount of thread

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6570.jpg

Steering joint, you can see the difference in length. You will use the gt one if you keep the OB rack but you will need the OB joint using the GT rack. Explained above.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6569.jpg

Front LCA plate, stud and spacer

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6568.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6567.jpg

Shifter assembly, the difference is 1/4in. in length of the rods.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6565.jpg

Rear UCA, they are the same length but the real difference is in the curve and bump stop contact point that is lower.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6559.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6562.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6563.jpg

Rear Bump stop

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6555.jpg

Drive shaft, you can see the center bearing difference where it bolts to the frame

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6551.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6552.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6553.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6554.jpg

Rear subframe bolt that are shorter

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6584.jpg

Rear trailing are brakets brigns the trailing arm closer to the body

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6579.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6581.jpg

Tranny cross member, you can see it sets the tranny closer to the body also

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6573.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6574.jpg

I'm more interested in rack fitment without grinding anything down. Was the grinding required because you removed all the subframe spacers? Would the rack fit an otherwise stock Outback?

Yes the rack will fit but if you dont remove the spacers the steering joint(OB joint) will mostlikely be a little short. Its an easy fix. The steering joint as a rubber bushing that holds with rivets. Grid down 2 of the rivets, pull the joint apart and put in a spacer(washers for example). Then put it back togeter with strong bolts. Simply easy mod.

Well I'm almost done now! I got pictures to show the differences in the parts side to side.

The GT rack does fit right in but there is a a slight difference. I am not sure if the difference is in the steering column length or the rack input shaft length but I was able to install it by first removing the spacers, the bolting the GT rack and keeping the OB steering knuckle. Mod needed was to grind 1/4in of the splines on the steering column shaft where the bolt passes to get the knuckle to go further on the steering column shaft since the OB knuckle is slightly longer by approx 1/2in!

Getting tires mounted this evening! Further update to come!

I was under the impression that the Legacy steering rack wouldn't work on the Outback.

Visually I don't see why it would not work but we'll see in the next few days!

Why did you get a new rack? Was yours leaking?

Shorter ratio. So less rotation for lock to lock.

I had installed an 07 STI rack on my old 97 OB and I was a GREAT mod.

18x9.5 +30 with 225/40 Hankook V12

http://www.wheelwarehouse.com/images/Product/large/5649.jpg

I wanted the Rotiform Nue in same size but out of stock and no ETA.

How much did you invest in doing the swap?

I purchased all the needed parts for the swap shown on picture in previous page including the GT rack and pinion for 260$ and then 100$ for shipping.

It was a good deal!!! I got all the parts with rack and pinion but minus the tranny cross member pieces from a part-out on Nasioc for 200$ and the tranny cross member I got on ebay for 60$ shipped.

Coil overs, wheels and other misc. parts well that just surplus!

I suppose you have gt bumpstops already?

I receive my rims on Monday, so next week I'll install the whole thing and i'll take pictures to actualy compare all parts including the rear UCA.