dvinke1

Ahh, gotcha! Makes sense on the subscription. I might have donated before had I known lol.

The picture thing though, jeez, no other forums I am on are anywhere NEAR this difficult to load and post pics. Or facebook - I hate facebook, but I understand why so many forum guys are switching to facebook automotive groups. The ease of use with the facebook platform and messenger is soooooo much easier.

Why is this a thing? It's soooooooo annoying when selling on this forum.

As is the picture uploading tool...

Can't believe neither of these things have been fixed in the past 10yrs...

These are modeled to replace the door. I presume I could make one narrow enough to fit with door on but the cubby would likely have to be irreversibly modified to make it fit. The way it is designed now it is completely reversible

Ok, looking forward to some install pics.

The cubby door functionality is not as important to me (though I do currently have doubly cubby gauges and I flip the door closed to hide them if I park somehwere kind sketch, or if I get pulled over).

I am more so hoping that they DO NOT protrude with the 'bugeye' look like the pods cypher made a while back (attached). That protruding look is just a little not-clean looking for me.

Cool! Does your triple cubby pod fit inside the cubby to retain functionality of the door? Or does it protrude out like the older design triple pod did?

I think He said that 3 gauges just don't fit inside the cubby for a flush look so he had to make it protrude.

That is incorrect. Part# 1AC33 is the fuel pressure regulator reference line, it runs directly from the cylinder #4 intake runner to the fuel pressure regulator assembly mounted on the driver's side strut tower. Part# 14465 is the bypass valve return, which connects the bypass valve outlet to the turbo inlet. The diagram you're referencing doesn't actually display any of the "blue tee" plumbing.

 

The blue tee connects the bypass valve reference and EVAP purge valve reference to the back of the manifold.

Correct.

On a side note/question if anyone knows - I am getting ready to start my new build, and I teed off of the 1AC33 line with one tee going to my aftermarket FPR as boost reference, and the other tee running about 5ft into the cabin to my boost gauge. Should not cause any problems for the FPR right?

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88538&stc=1&d=1281363875

 

The orange line in the above diagram is wrong.

 

The other nipple on the front of the intake manifold should be routed through little filter disc and to the MAP sensor.

 

The nipple on the back side of the purge valve gets run underneath manifold and toward the back where it tees into the hose that goes to the back side intake manifold nipple and also the recirc valve (dark green line on the diagram below)

 

Refer to this diagram for correct routing:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=167975&d=1384657978

Something I've been working on the last few days

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/B3wBgqe.jpg

What gauge cluster is that?? Looks good

Looks doable. Kred is still working on the Defrost Gauge pod and I'm waiting on a design for a vent pod. Still need to work on the Third Brake light delete also

Ooh, ya would be interested in the Defrost pod and the vent pod too!

How about designing something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-18017/overview/

Guy apparently installed it in his LGT in thread below, but no finished pics, and he said it would require trimming:

(pic half way down page)

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gauge-pod-would-you-like-designed-legacy-158273p5.html

Hard to say how much the rear view mirror needs to go down though, might take up too much room up there. I'll have to measure in my car and lower the mirror and see.

Or even something like this for an accessport:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-13002/overview/

Any chance you could make a triple cubby pod that retains functionality of the flip-top cover? Or maybe at least not quite so protruding?

Personally I think the protruding 'bugeye' look is pretty fugly looking...

dvinke1, in your post, you had mentioned only two of the bearings needed to be done. Which of these from the list were they?

 

Ball Bearing 806230170

Radial Ball Bearing 806255010

Roll Bearing 806322080

Roll Bearing 806330120

 

I am having some "airplane whine" as can be heard in this link. Not sure if yours sounded similar. Mine is an 05 GT and currently up on stands waiting for me to get some time.

 

http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/wi...lh3v3.mp4.html

 

I am pretty sure that my TOB is going, but that is a separate noise.

 

Thanks

Mine actually sounded almost exactly like a TOB, I thought thats what it was for 10k before I jacked it all up and crawled underneath to realize it was coming from the diff area. No whining tho..

For me it was

Ball Bearing 806230170

and

Roll Bearing 806322080

Also, FWIW I was able to use a Pulley/Jaw style pulller to remove the drive gear ball bearing as well.

The writeup recommends a Bearing Splitter tool, but the puller did just fine.

Great writeup! Helped me with a few things along the way as I did these bearings this weekend.

For as loud as my tranny whine was getting and had started about 20k ago, surprisingly the bearings were not in as terrible condition as I thought they would be. Noisy, but none were falling apart yet, no heat or scoring yet.

For me, the front driven gear roll bearing was the main noise culprit, and then the drive gear ball bearing was on its way out too. I maybe should have done all the bearings, but money was an issue on this one, and the other 2 were good and tight still.