SSpeed

If you want to buy one we're happy to get it done, but at this time he has no interest in releasing the file.

 

Sorry.

 

Let me know if you want to get one going.

I'd like to buy one of the 3 gauge pods. Does it cover the clock like the closed cubby door does? I find I can never see the clock in sunlight with my current cubby pod.

The other night while driving home I heard the fuel pump whining way more than normal, pulled a Learning View and lots of fuel was getting added.

0-<5.60 - 15

5.60 - <10.00 - 5

10 - <40.00 - 15

40.00+ - 2

I got home and pressure tested the intake just in case and found very little. Since my pump was a pre-e85 compatible Aeromotive that I've been using with e85, and it was whining, I figured it was the pump and replaced it with an AEM 320, getting a new unmodified basket in the process. I didn't replace the two green o-rings as I didn't have any and they didn't look swollen or rolled. (Note: I'm going to replace them.)

Drove around for about 10min and Learning View seemed to look better, but I was still skeptical so I put in a wideband and had the intake smoke tested. The smoke test showed no leaks.

In 3rd the wideband is showing about 12.4 at redline, when it should be 11.4 - 11.8. Learning View is wacky again, almost the exact numbers as my initial problem.

0-<5.60 - 14.70

5.60 - <10.00 - 5.70

10 - <40.00 - 15

40.00+ - 2.10

I'm also getting a small backfire as I press the throttle if I granny shift in super low RPMs. If I set the cruise at 40mph in 3rd it almost feels like it's missing as the o2s jump wildly between 13.9 and 15.0. I've never had a wideband before so I don't know if that's normal behavior? At a static speed and RPM I would assume it would hold 14.7 easier and more consistently?

Idle is smooth as butter and WOT power is smooth and strong. You wouldn't know there was a problem if you didn't look at Learning View or the wideband.

What should I be looking for? Next steps in my mind are to replace the two green o-rings and check fuel pressure. The low rpm backfire confuses me though. An ignition problem would show up as extra richness vs leanness? If the FPR was going bad I assume it would also pour in too much fuel? The behavior feels like an intake leak, but I've checked everything and the smoke test was clear. I'm stumped.

Do you know your assembly date? Is it possible it was affected by this recall and never repaired?

http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html

5/13/16 Recall and Stop Sale/Do Not Drive on some new 2016 and early production 2017 Outbacks and Legacys assembled after February 29th that might have a bad steering column.

Recall #WTD-65

Around 52,000 (48,500 U.S. and 3,500 Canadian) 2016 and early 2017 Outback and Legacy might have an improperly manufactured steering column that can come loose resulting in a loss of steering and control.

Vehicles assembled within the production dates and VIN range have to be visually inspected by a Subaru dealer.

It's that light 2.5 engine causing your uneasy feeling. The extra 167 lbs in the 3.6 (engine, springs, brakes, and dual exhaust) really helps.

Kidding aside, I have a 2017 and feel none of what you describe. I switched to snow tires right when I bought it, putting the stock tires back on this spring I do notice A LOT more sidewall flex just driving around, maybe that is what you are feeling?

Are they offering any other fix than the failed TSB?

They are being quite responsive so that is good. They are going to replace the weatherstripping I posted. Butttttt, they gave me a 2017 Outback as a loaner car, the exact noise is there. I'm not convinced it's a problem with my car, but the whole model overall. This is my 5th Subaru and it has the most wind noise of them all.

I went out and checked some of the weather stripping over lunch. This doesn't look right to me. It's like a straight piece of stripping was used to turn the corner. That could potentially be the source of my noise, but it seems like it's coming from the front of the window, not the rear.

The maximum number of files on a USB device is 8000, the maximum number of folders on the USB is 512 folders, and the maximum number of files per folder is 255. Folders up to 8 levels deep can be used, however it can cause a lag, so Subaru recommends folders no more than 2 levels deep.

Thank you for this information, do you know if it's still current for the 2017 models? Where did you find it published?

I just looked at my "collection". I have it set up as Artist -> Album -> Songs.

It's 10,000 files though, and the root directory is 1206 folders, so I'm guessing this won't work. Re-indexing takes at least 15 min everytime I start the car. I get the last song played and then it goes to Guano Apes and then to Guns N' Roses. No idea why it starts with G unless it trimmed the 2000 songs before it. I'm beginning to hate Welcome to the Jungle.

I'm surprised that it has to re-index every single time it starts, my old Kenwood DMX7704S and the Pioneer before it stored the catalog as a file. Perhaps it's time to trim the crap out of my collection. I have entire albums ripped from the old CD days that I might like just a song or two.

I'll toss my hat in.

I have a brand new 2017 Legacy 3.6R, the wind noise is maddening. I have no roof rack. It starts around 30mph and around 80mph it's bad. It sounds like fluttering and sounds like it's coming from the front small window. In older cars I've had it's the exact same noise as worn weatherstripping. Before reading this thread I had the same thought that it might be the mirrors, but I folded them in and it had no effect whatsoever.

This is my 5th Subaru and I can honestly say it's louder than every previous one I've had.

Previous Subarus, all without this wind noise:

1998 Outback with roof rack

1999 Outback with roof rack

2005 Legacy GT

2008 Tribeca with roof rack

When I first looked, I thought it might be coming from the circled area as the door is raised there from the body.

It's going into the dealer tomorrow.

Here's an outside of the car with my exhaust. A bit raspier than I can hear in the car. Some cruising and 3 WOTs.

[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoiGEDMnEXM[/ame]

AutoNation was Subaru. Subaru never used Takata in any driver airbag, whereas it looks like a lot of Hondas (if not all) use Takata on the driver's side. When you compare driver's side and passenger side airbags to just passenger side airbags, you'll definitely see the problem more with airbags on both sides.

Like ehnils said, it was the propellant they used. They also had little clue, whether it was legitimate or it was document-hiding, what cars the defective propellant were deployed to, that's why we see the list continue to grow, essentially they don't know or aren't saying.

The injuries also haven't been just in Hondas, last September there were 139 injuries reported across all automakers. The following is an interesting read if you haven't seen it.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/honda-taking-heat-for-hiding-deaths-injuries-from-exploding-airbag-recalls/

Interesting, saw this on Subaru's site today:

You may be aware of recent reports about recalls involving air bags supplied by Takata. Ten different car companies, including Subaru, are affected. No Subaru vehicle has driver’s front air bags supplied by Takata.

or it could be 12+year old plastic that is fragile from all of the heating up and cooling down causing it to be brittle....

Nah, it was a careless tech. You can see my pictures here, and that wasn't all of it, my radio/climate controls got replaced as part of it as well. They didn't plug the temp sensor back in, and even after they did it blew hot air 100% of the time.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/local-airbag-recall-options-251876.html

Speaking of which, my '05 never came with a cabin air filter.

 

Anyone know the P/N for the necessary bits to retrofit one in? It'll need the tray, filter and new glove box box and whatever else.

SOA342L500 if you haven't already found it. I did it a few months ago, works great, and easy as pie. All the needed parts come with that part # for about $80.

Clutch flywheel seems to be a huge matter of personal taste. South Bend clutches have been gaining popularity on this forum lately and everyone seems to have good feedback on them.

 

I am running a Southbend stage 2 daily on a Stage 2 VF52 set-up and it holds the power well and is easy to drive in stop and go traffic. Occasionally it shudders when I engage it though.

I have a Southbend as well, Stage 3 Daily, it's been beautiful, holds power well and easy to drive around town, it shudders from time to time on engagement. It's taken quite a few drag strip launches with no complaints.

I had a Southbend Stage 2 Endurance at one time. The Endurance has (or at least it did) metal linings in the friction disc material. On repeated launches (such as hot-lapping at the drag strip) you can actually weld the friction disc to the flywheel which will cause you to not be able to disengage the clutch. Ask if the one you are looking at has metal linings and don't get that one.

If you decided to run Stock Calipers on your ride (which I feel are inadequate) you may want to upgrade to the following:

 

G-Stop Braided lines.

Slotted Rotors from AP or other manufactures that produce a similar sized rotor as your stock ones. Helps ventilate better and reduces warping / weight. Please note - Not all after-market cross drilled rotors are indeed better then your stock ones so you want to pay a little more, and do some more research with the top brands. Ask questions.

Hawk Performance Pads ==> good for the moderate street racer and daily driver. Make sure NOT to Run Race Pads on your daily driver - they take a long time to heat up and they will wear out your rotors faster and poor output in the cold. (not safe)

Use a Premium fluid as well ==>any of the ones suggested in the above threads are good.

I've run various different pads over the years, Hawks, Porterfield R4-S, EBC Ultimax, Greenstuff and Yellowstuff. Pads make a big difference in feeling like the stock rotors are inadequate.

I didn't realize how bad Hawk pads are. I had the entry level EBC Ultimaxs on one car and Hawks on another, everytime I got in to the Hawk-equipped car I felt terrified that they weren't going to stop. I never noticed that until I ran two different pads on two different cars.

If you want brake pads that don't need to be heated up, but will put your face through the windshield when needed, go with some EBC Yellowstuffs. Sure, they dust a bit, but they stop with awesome power.

Never activate your parking brake after you have driven your car hard for a period of time - You will apply force to one section of the stock rotors which will hold the pads clamped down, and the heat will stay in that area where pressure is being applied longer. End result, you will eventually warp your rotors and possibly have more vibration, and or fade under all driving conditions. The vibrations from warped/cracked rotors can be so bad that you may weaken the suspension from all of the vibration (ie. ball joints, tie rod ends etc). Trust me i've gone through it..

Isn't our parking brake a drum system inside the hub and not the rotor and pads themselves? How would that apply with a drum brake system like ours?

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/brake.jpg