1-3-2-4

Yeah I tried to take the door card off but for some reason I had a hard time trying to finally get it off something near the inside door latch.

Little update is no more CEL codes but I changed both front and rear sensors plus the MAF sensor but I think I could of got by on not having to change that.

Finally got it fixed but what is the reason why I can't open the door from the outside but the inside it works fine?

I’ve had this on my LGT but this happened on my wife’s car so it won’t open from the outside but will open from the inside.. however she put the child lock on and now can’t get the door open at all.. is all hope lost?

Ok so The only code that came back is the p0171 and now the new code under load was the p0301 and p0303

Still stuck on this

O2s bank 1 sensor 1 is the upstream? This is a ‘05 legacy i the reading is just stuck on 2.798v which I think is full lean?

So for some reason the drivers side door stopped locking and unlocking with the remote but the other doors work with the keyfob and the door switch.. However the drivers side window does not work I don't think I ever recalled having an issue on any windows or the motors?

 

 

Nor have I heard of issues with the switch panel on the door?

So it’s causing my CEL to come on in my wife’s car codes:

 

P1718

P0700

 

Anyone know what these codes are/mean?

http://ae64.com/Legacy-pinout.htm

 

There is illum and dimmer-illum, check out the wiring diagram linked above.

 

 

Damn I screwed up I hooked dimmer lillum- to the head unit so turning on the headlights didn’t do anything to the radio brightness. Nor did turning the dial.. so the solid orange has to get to the purple of the factory harness it seems.

 

I don’t need dash brightness just for the head unit to dim when the lights are on.

There are a set of green connectors in the passenger footwell.

I remember that from my LGT but I didn't see any.. now I heard they are up under the dash on the drivers side which I'm going to check in a few.

I heard is was to be left not connected but just use the orange/white wire.. I can’t remember how I did it on my LGT or other Subaru’s lol I’m getting old.

I know the car has green test connectors on the side driver side dash in the panel but anything else under the dash? My service manual is on my desktop of packed away.

I guess that means it’s rated ok for CA.

If I’m looking at the sticker right this is a CA emissions car?

It’s been so long I forgot… I connected the dimmer wire to the dimmer on the head unit (pioneer) but the solid orange on the aftermarket Subaru radio harness is listed as Illum what does that one connect to?

I got my wife one needs a little bit of TLC

 

First up are the codes it’s a automatic

 

The ABS is showing the rear left and right open circuit or shorted.. last I remember when I had my ‘05 GT the sensor was just bad.

 

Now the other codes…

 

P0137

P0851

P1152

P1153

 

 

I think the P0851 is what’s causing a low idle?

 

 

And I don’t understand why the car cycles the fans when it’s turned to on.. I’ve only seen this with like the test connectors plugged in but unless I missed another set of plugs…

 

https://youtu.be/N3h9hf1sfKQ

I got mine from Amazon

Well going to try to do the other side tonight I’m hoping the link to adjust the camber is not going to be a bitch with bolts.. mapp gas is pretty good but I might have to try that atf cocktail mix to see if it works better than pb blaster

I wonder if that’s ok? Was only able to get one side done stupid me forgot my adjustable arms all the way back at home in NJ so I had to take the train to get them... let’s see if I get off early enough to do the rest..

Reason the bracket and 3 bolts need to come out is, the bolt that goes through the bushing is long and will either hit the body or the gas tank.

 

 

 

Ok I got it back in but with the new bushings in did yours have a little play? I kinda thought they were going to be a bit firmer.

Cleared just got the drivers side off thanks to the cordless tools not that much sweat but good greef the worn parts flex like crazy

Question why do I need to remove both subframes bolts from the support arm? Can’t I just remove one and swing the trailing arm down?

 

Looks like it would clear?

Time to tackle this today... wish me luck it’s freezing I think I have all what I need

Keep in mind that the aftermarket arms (and or poly bushings) will makes things a bit rougher. It's fine on our nice VA roads, but good luck with anything north of us

I think right now stock arms and lowered springs I think this would be an upgrade if I can get back on stock struts. you don't know how bad it is to fear any pothole lol..