Scruit

Compression good. If ringlands just let go when they feel like it then I can't do anything else to predict ore prevent.

Thanks for the reply. After the AVCS OCVs were replaced I changed the oil. I'll remove and clean/check the oil lines this weekend. I'm also planning on checking the pistons with a borescope to look for scoring or an indication of ringland issues. Logging this morning's commute showed the turbo topped out at 15.98psi, which is my tune - but only after 20 mins of driving. The hooo sound is greatly diminshed when the engine is at full temp, but will come back when cold again). During the time when the engine is cold the turbo topped out at 12psi. (That was from freeway merging - I don't want to so a actual pull until I know the car's safe to do it...) I only got 1 misfire in the entire commute - and I got 34 knocks detected during the 30 minute drive. I'll have to examine the logs in greater detail to figure out where the knocking happened. IAM never came off 1.000

My turbo has been making funny noises recently. Invidia catless UP with temp probe. First noise truned out to be the temp probe came loose, and I screwed that back in. I have not yet put the heat shield back on. Second noise is a "hooo" sound when the turbo is under load - started afetr removing heat shield. No noise before, noticed noise as soon as I set off driving again. You have to specifically listen for it to hear it, but I can hear it. I currently suspect that the lack of heat shield is allowing a resonance / vibration to propagate through the DP. SOund comes from the entire underneath of the car, front to back. I got P0011 and P0022 last week, but I've had those codes before when I go a few miles over the OCI, and an oil change always makes them go away for the duration of the OCI. My car tends to drink oil (1qt/1k miles) so it's generally fairly fresh because I'm topping it up all the time. Plan: - I have a new turbo/DP gasket - I will remove the DP and check the turbo shaft for play. Any play = new turbo before driving again. - If turbo has no play then I'll check the banjo filter and clean or remove the filter element. I'm also going to check the banjos on the OCVs - Recheck the bolts on the manifilold, UP, turbo and DP. Put the heat shield back on the turbo. Hopefully the noise goes away. - Going to send the oil to Blackstone for an analysis - see if any wear materials noted. Any more advice?

Depressingly enough, my clutch is out again. Not worn - won't disengage. Back in '09 I had more time than money. This time it is the other way round so I am letting the dealer fix it this time. Clutch lasted 4 years / 70k.

Happy little bushing?

Feedeback on the instructions in the OP: - Thanks for the heads-up on v1.29. It was a headscratcher there for a while until I got 1.29 (And drivers installed) and it worked fine. - I tried 1.29 first and got an error message (Need 64bit DPinst). Couldn't install the cable driver either, so I uninstalled and installed the newest version (1.4x before reading the compatibility note). The cable drivers installed themselves (Win7) but the software couldn't connect to the car. Uninstalled 1.4x and reinstalled 1.29 and it remembered the cable drivers, and connected to the car. Still got the 64bit DPInst message, butt he drivers were already installed at that point. 1.4x did not give me the dpinst error. - LearningView could use a warning that a table full of all zeroes is actually a good thing (No correction factors had to be applied?) Still working at it.

Going to be tough getting it back on again. The margin for error between keeping the trans lined up and clearing the turbo is very small. Having an extra pair of eyes and hands will do wonders. I did mine alone.

So the power above 125hp is wasted as wheelspin, then? (kidding...)

What rear end ar you going to use? The stocker is designed to handle 50% of 250hp. You're gonna give it 100% of 600hp? I know these things always have some leeway designed into them but you're honestly going to expect it to hold up after you quintuple the power it has to handle??

You're going to have to go with a screen that will fit. I got a screen for cheap and then found it wouldn't fit, so I had to get a different screen. Here's what I wound up with... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125902

That's the ticket. My tranny jack adapter for my floor jack only tilts side/side. Useless considering you need to tilt side/side AND forward/back. This is on my shopping list now.

I left them in originally. I could have done it with them left in place if I have used a proper trans jack. I had to switch jacks in mid-job becuase the motorbike jack was not working out. It was safer and more stable than my floor jack with trans jack attachment (which is why I went with it originally) but it gave me no ability to tilt/pitc the trans to align it. Swapping the jack while the trans was disconnected from the engine eas quite a ballet. It required me to support the trans with the engine hoist at the front, and with a spare jack at the back. To do this I had to move the trans further away from the engine than the axles woudl allow. If I had used a proper trans jack from the beginning I could have done the work without removing the axles Live and learn. Having said that, removing the axles took about 5 mins per side. Just pull the split pin from the lower balljoint, impact-wrench the nuts off, picklefor the controal arm off the balljoint, then prybar the avles out of the trans. I literally could have pulled the axles out in the same time it would have take me to get a cup of tea.

It can be done without. I removed the axles because I was struggling with my poor jack choice.

My emphasis. Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

1) Just to keep the motor level, yes. 2) It spills from the propshaft , mostly after you tilt it down to remove it 3) I did not. I didn't plan on removing the axles so I didn't have the seals to hand. Also I figure that getting to the axles is a 20mins/side job that I can do *if* they leak. They haven't. 4) I swapped out the mbike jack for two trolley jacks for reinstallation. My cheap tranny jack didn't have the correct tilt adjustment (it tilts side/side not front/back??) A proper tranny jack is the way to go.

Engine house allowed me to 'aim' the motor. The thing that got me past the turbo clearance was just perserverance - it actually took a few hours to plug them back together becuase I was using the motorbike jack that didn't allow me to tilt the trans. Once I switched to a jack that allowed me to tilt the trans it went together much easier. It's all about the alignment - it must be perfect.

It's about 60/40 up top in terms of stuff to disconnect, but that's the easy stuff. The trans subframe, propshaft and downpipe are heavy, and the trans weighs a TON.

Using the "Move the transmission back" method. Part 1: Intro and Disassembly [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3Bw7RiBSmI]YouTube- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Clutch Replacement (Part 1 of 2)[/ame] Part 2: Inspection and Reassembly [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_-EKcYVpfo]YouTube- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Clutch Replacement (Part 2 of 2)[/ame][ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_-EKcYVpfo][/ame]

I've had a lilliput screen attached to my windshield with a GPS suction mount for a while now. I'm a little worried about it being a theft target, and it looks like it blocks my view (even though it didn't) so I installed it in place of the cubby. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/DashCamScreen.jpg (yes, I know my car is messy!) I've had the infopanel relocation kit hanging around for a while. None of the holes lined up so I had to make a custom bracket. Same with the screen - it's bolted to the dashboard using a custom made bracket (not attached to the fascia) I am not going to do the next step (smoothing out the edges of the fascia to match the screen) until I'm sure the screen is where I want it. I'm going to give it a couple weeks of driving in different light levels before I'll be sure I'm happy with the angle of the screen.