Scruit

Dealership told me last week on the phone that they had the parts. Today, they tell me they're back ordered until April. At least I called before driving 20+ miles in the rain + $5 bridge toll only to be told no, can't do it..

 

Time to try 1-800-Subaru3 and see what they say.. and after they blow me off, tear into the car and disable the airbag..

Yup, Subaru says to not carry a front seat passenger, so several months of no front passenger is going to be a big problem for a lot of folks.

So, assuming they have to remove the whole dashboard, and I have a bunch of custom wiring in there... How to handle?

I can't expect them to understand my wiring, to troubleshoot it is there is a problem etc. I thin the safest route is for me to remove the custom wiring ahead of time and give them a stock vehicle to work on. This means removing the wiring for my dashcam, screen, backup camera feed selector, phone cable, FM transmitter, oil pressure gauge and boost/vac gauge. They all hook up inside the inspection panel on the passenger side of the dashboard, and most of it crosses over to the driver's side behind the dash. This stuff will all be in the way while they are working and "allow for removal of the dashboard" was not high on my list of design requirements.

Like this: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/silencing-vin-plate-defroster-panel-1205.html?threadid=1205

Replace the clips that hold the defroster panel on. I don't mind them charging me for the clips, and if they are taking that panel off already then it's no additional labor for them.

You can't be serious. There's no way the dealership is going to do any additional work while in there. Especially not for a rattle on a car that's 7-10 years old.

Depends on what has to come apart and whey the dash rattles. If the problem is with worn mounting hardware for the dash pad then they could easily just use new hardware on reassembly, no?

The issue with the heads is that they don't use cam bearings in the same way that the crank uses bearings. The cam rides metal-on-metal directly against the head with only oil for protection. If turbo debris tears up the crank bearings you can have the crank reground and/or put new bearings in. If the cam is similarly afflicted then you don't have that option, and new heads are $600 each.

TBH, if you're going to buy a SB and both heads, you might as well get the LB.

Some people get away with replacing the oil a few times over the next few hundred miles. Some people aren't that lucky. You won't know which you are.

If you don't plan on replacing the SB, then I'd do this:

- FP filtered oil line to feed your new turbo.

- Stick a big magnet inside the oil pan (will catch most debris, but notably not turbo bearing material)

- Add an oil pressure gauge

Keep a close eye on oil pressures. Low oil pressure at cruising speed is a sign of severely worn bearings. "Low" is a matter of opinion, with some folks claining 75-100 psi warm cruise pressures. I get 60psi cold, 55psi hot - new SB, blueprinted heads.

EDIT: oil pressure gauge is also a source of stress as you drive because any blip in the reading makes you pucker up a little.

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I started an online relationship with a American girl when I was in college. I lived in England at the time. I was 21 and she was 20.

After weeks of talking online and on the phone I flew over to meet her. I proposed 2 weeks after we met in person.

<< That's her. Just celebrated 18 years together.

(Bear in mind this was nearly 20 years ago when the only people online were IT geeks!)

Got the BP kit and installed it. Was surprised to find separation starting on the inlet side - got the kit as a preventative measure to go with my new 16g. When I went to crimp the tabs the inlet side turned out to be pretty damn loose...

Kit went in in about 15 mins (TMIC was already on the bench).

No problems, we have time. I'm expecting to finish installing the new turbo and DP etc this coming weekend, then run a base map for a couple of revisions before we crank up the boost. I just ordered the "blue tee replacement" so I expect to have the TMIC off next week anyways to install the new tee.

Thanks!

When my turbo blew (cracked is more accurate I guess) among the many, many things I did was 3 full oil changes within the first 100 miles. Did it help? I dont know but i havent had to replace the small block. Yet.

How long has it been? Miles/Months?

So if you're getting shaft wobble that usually indicates turbo is going, most likely due to oil starvation, as in clogged oil supply in most cases with these units, replace turbo and oil supply system and you might be able to save your motor. And do a full oil change, every drop you can, and clean the oil pan. Feel free to call us up for advice 800-298-8726, ask for Nick.

 

~tc

Understood. New turbo is sitting here waiting to go in. The car is on stands and the engine is not being run until I'm sure I've saved it. I am going to drop and inspect/clean the pan, then run two more complete oil changes though it (replace turbo/oil line, clean the OCVs and oil lines, do an oil change, run the engine to full op temp, do another oil change, then start driving it and cross my fingers. I'm hopeful I can save the engine, but also not going to be too surprised if the engine goes south vary soon. I'm going to look at installing an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things for now.

Thanks!

I'd drop the pan and take a look. It's not fun having the motor come to a rattling, clattering, screeching stop and it always happens at the most inconvenient time.

I hear that. Good advice.

Leakdown numbers: (all cold - don't want to run engine right now)

#1 135psi 20% LD (sound from oil filler)

#2 130psi 27% LD (sound from oil filler)

#3 130psi 25% LD (sound from oil filler)

#4 120psi 30% LD (sound from oil filler)

Gotcha. Thanks. My car has not exhibited any of the 5 listed symptoms (smoke, squeal, metal in oil, *catastrophic* turbo failure or oil system failure - as far as I can tell)

I'm going to cross my fingers that I caught it early enough. I'm going to pull and clean the oil pan and then put it all together again. If I need a new engine then I need a new engine. Time to start saving up I guess.

Failure is loose shaft. Exploded turbo anything that can make the turbo not function the way it was built to do.

 

I would PM JMP.

I have the replacement turbo in hand and will install it in the coming days - my question was about whether a turbo with loose bearings that has not suffered a *catastrophic* failure poses a risk to the short block.

Where does the metail inthe oil come from? Turbo shaft bearing material making it down into the sump through the oil return line? Or bits of broken blade going into the cylinders via the air intake?

Another question: I see a lot of discussion of how a "failed" turbo usually takes out the engine with it. Ok... but...

What is a "failed" turbo? Mine has bad bearing and a lot of slop, with the tips of the impeller blade folded over - however it was still functioning normally and the only symptom was a "hooo" sound under boost that nobody noticed until I pointed it out.

When I think of failed turbo I think of something that makes some kind of noise that would make your average driver stop and call for a tow.

So, is a turbo "failure" that causes engine death the kind of thing where a the turbo looks like it tried to ingest a handful of pocket change? Or is a mild "hooo" sound with loose bearings considered to be a failure that necessitates a teardown of the engine? Does the metal in the engine come from the bearings being worn away? Or the blades coming apart?

Starting to worry that I may be pulling the pan on mine to check for debris. Intercooler has zero debris visible in it. The oil is coming out of the car tonight after the leakdown test is completed. I figure if the oil has any flecks in it I'll pull the pan.

Sure, there's a limit to what I can see - but it's better than nothing. I was hoping to (NOT) see evidence of blown head gasket (really clean piston) or evidence that one cylinder is significantly different in terms of carbon buildup etc. Possibly visible damage, that kind of thing.

Save for taking the engine apart, there's not much more I can do. I'm going to "run what I brung" at this point. If the engine goes tits-up next then the upgraded oil line should spare the turbo and I'll stick a built engine in there. Luckily I have a couple options for alternate transport.

Given that you're getting those AVCS-related trouble codes and getting a "hooo" sound from the turbo it sounds like an oil issue, either sludge, weak oil pump, or poor oil flow into the turbo. I'd fully change the oil and replace the oil feed system. Might be getting a clogged artery in the turbo oil feed system because if the turbo is getting under-oiled it can make that sound you described.

Thanks for the reply.

After the AVCS OCVs were replaced I changed the oil. I'll remove and clean/check the oil lines this weekend.

I'm also planning on checking the pistons with a borescope to look for scoring or an indication of ringland issues.

Logging this morning's commute showed the turbo topped out at 15.98psi, which is my tune - but only after 20 mins of driving. The hooo sound is greatly diminshed when the engine is at full temp, but will come back when cold again). During the time when the engine is cold the turbo topped out at 12psi. (That was from freeway merging - I don't want to so a actual pull until I know the car's safe to do it...)

I only got 1 misfire in the entire commute - and I got 34 knocks detected during the 30 minute drive. I'll have to examine the logs in greater detail to figure out where the knocking happened.

IAM never came off 1.000