Mr. Sinister

Yup. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

07 DGM Spec. B on I294 headed north right around the I90 exit?

Heh. I see you've done a search and found this thread. Post the tire size selections that you made and maybe blackfang will chime in.

You are correct, I had the numbers switched. That explains why I thought the computer was $50 instead of $80. I specifically told Jeremy to make sure the parts worked for an 08, so anyone else doing this will have to make sure they're getting the right parts for their car. Thanks!

I thought about going that route since it's something my previous boss could have done regardless of what the protocol was. Check out: http://www.robotroom.com/ if you want to see some of the neat things he's built/done. Problem with doing it that way is that you'd still need the tool to activate each sensor to register them. Last I checked it was $200. I also suggested in one of Cobb's thread that they build this functionality into their AP because it'd be really simple for them to do, but I didn't want to hold my breath waiting to see if that would happen.

I think there were twelve pins total. I don't remember if all of them were used. The pinouts are in the vacation pix though, so you should be able to find out for yourself. It wouldn't be difficult to make, the hardest part is sourcing the plugs if you want a clean install.

lol. I break out the latex when I don't want to get my pretty hands dirty.

It's possible, but not easy. The TPMS computer is connected to the Body Integrated Unit. If you look at the pinout for the TPMS computer, it looks like one pin is used to communicate with the BIU. Here's what I think happens: SSM3 talks to the BIU and the BIU talks to the TPMS computer. BIU tells TPMS computer to go into learning mode. The TPMS sensors are activated and the TPMS computer stores each sensor as it sees it. So, if we want to bypass the ECU/BIU, we would have to know the protocol (language + instructions) that the TPMS computer expects to put it into learning mode. Not worth it IMO. It's a one time cost to get the second set of sensors registered (unless you find a dealer to do it for free) until you need new sensors after ten or so years.

Yup, you got it. Yeah, the light wasn't as annoying as I thought it would be and I learned to ignore it. I got it for the slow leak/cut tire condition more than anything else. I seem to have extremely bad luck with tires, so that's why I went ahead and did it. You also have to remember that: 1. $93 of the cost came from dismounting the tires, installing the sensors, and then remounting and rebalancing. If you're getting new tires, this won't be an added cost. 2. I went with sensors from Subaru directly because I wanted to eliminate any unknown variables for this particular experiment/test. I'm sure it would still work if you found a cheaper aftermarket sensor that was still compatible.

Yes, both TPMS modules will fit under there. The Spec. Bs have the GPS unit right there as you can see in one of the pics, and the TPMS module is either not as thick or thinner than the GPS unit. I should've snapped a pic with the second unit in place, but it didn't occur to me at the time since what I was really after was a pic of the harness. Unless you have a switched 'Y' connector or something similar, there really is no point in having both computers under there at the same time when the harness is plugged back into the original computer. You won't be able to switch the harness with the second computer in place (harness is way too short), so you'd have to unbolt the seat and tilt it back to switch them. It's just easier to pull the second one out. To sum it up, both computers stay in when you want to use the second one, and the second one comes out when you use the first one. I'm in contact with 'Dr. Tweak' of Phoenix Tuning to see if he can build a harness for us. He says that he can if he can source the female plug. I've sent pictures, but he's had trouble locating it. The last message I got from him: "I've been trying to hunt this down. Can you do me a favor and take a very close look at the connector and tell me if there are any symbols or letters or anything on them? Like a cross, or a triangle?" It would make things a lot more convenient, but I honestly don't know if it's necessary. At least for me anyway. If the seat has to be unbolted then I'd definitely want one, but since I can do the swap with the seat in place (remember I have small hands), it's not that big a deal.

After picking up a set of winter wheels, I started to think about how to run two sets of wheels without having to take the car to the dealer to have the sensors re-registered every time I switched from summer to winter wheels and vice-versa. At $57 a pop (as quoted by a dealer near work), that wasn't going to happen. As described in a previous thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104714 I came up with the idea of switching out the TPMS computer every time I changed wheels instead of having sensors re-registered. No one had an idea if it would work, so after doing some research and reading the service manual, I decided to bite the bullet and be the guinea pig. Cost for my experiment (thanks to Jeremy/FredBeansParts): 1 - UNIT TPMS AS 28103AG06A Cost: $79.94 4 - VALVE AY TPM 28103AG01B Cost: $208.52 Mount TPMS sensors on wheels Cost: $93.96 Register new TPMS sensors with new TPMS computer: Free this one time. Running two sets of wheels with no TPMS light: Priceless? Nope. $382.42. So, here's a step-by-step of what I did: 1. Unbolt the driver's seat to tip it back (not really necessary). 2. Lift the carpet flap to uncover the TPMS computer. 3. Unplug the harness from the existing TPMS computer. 4. Remove the mounting bracket from the new TPMS computer. 5. Plug the harness into the new TPMS computer. 6. Lay the new computer down under the carpet flap (there was just enough clearance under the power driver's seat). 7. Re-install seat. 8. Get new TPMS sensors installed on second set of rims. 9. Get new TPMS sensors registered with the new TPMS computer at dealer. You're now done until you want to switch back to your previous wheels. At this point: 10. Mount first set of wheels. 11. Unplug harness from the new TPMS computer and plug it back into the existing one. 12. Start and drive the car. Note: The TPMS may or may not blink initially. Mine did and my heart sank because I thought my experiment failed. After driving a block though the light went out and stayed off for my four mile test drive. My theory on why it started out blinking is because that's the state the computer was in when I first unplugged it. If I had unplugged in the 'good' state, the light might have never come on. I noted that step 1 was not really necessary because if you know where everthing is (and have small girlish hands like I do), you can just move the seat all the way up and back and reach under there. I snapped some pics while the seat was out so that might help if any of you want to try this for yourselves. Caveats: This was done on my 2008 Spec. B. YMMV. Typically, you would try the different wheel/TPMS computer combinations to make sure that the light stays off when the sensors and computer are 'paired' correctly and comes on when they're not, but IMO the test I did as described proves to me that this works. If you decide to do this and your car burns to the ground, it's not my fault.

I'll usually tape cardboard over the inlet and outlet as well.

Great. Thanks again. Depending on the condition, $700 may be cheap. I've been keeping track over on NASIOC for a while and I've seen people asking $850+ for wheels in great condition. The deal that I passed on and probably shouldn't have was a set of silver ones in near mint condition with Nokian WRs for $1350 + shipping.

One more question. We don't need hub centering rings or anything like that to run these wheels, right?

Cool. Thanks.

Will the stock acorn lug nuts work with these wheels?

Have the valves ever been adjusted? They're supposed to be done at 105K and can cause a misfire and a P030# code to be thrown.