BoozeRS05

I took my wagon to a car show last weekend and was also overwhelmed by the amount of shenanigans. It was pretty embarrassing, although not an overwhelmingly Subaru crowd, but just obnoxious behavior. I left before the police asked everyone to vacate.

Definitely jump on a rear sway bar. I’m not aware, but if the corresponding STi part is plug and play, it’s a great upgrade for cheap. I installed one on my 2014 Forester, which is 20mm and I got one for $50 locally

Well that’s certainly one of a kind…

Boom, new doors installed

Now back to the Legacy… Picking up a Grimmspeed turbo heat shield, JDM battery cover and Mishimoto radiator soon

Idk, I respect silverton’s practicality and knowledge just about as much as anyone on this site. Good luck

Subaru fixed my brake line rupture a couple years ago. They footed the bill, and there was a pretty substantial amount of work, but unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what and the cost.

Same situation though, was about a mile from home and coming to a stop when the pedal went completely soft. I had enough pressure to stop, but I quickly peered under the car and saw fluid pouring from in front of the rear wheel. Limped it home and then another mile and a half to the dealership. 

Another reason to keep your old Legacy around:

https://dnyuz.com/2024/03/11/automakers-are-sharing-consumers-driving-behavior-with-insurance-companies/

Send it out to a good Subaru shop? An experienced mechanic could likely accomplish these items for a couple hundred bucks I’d think. 

If @Holla doesn’t grab the exterior driver door handle I’d likely take it.

And I’d snag the battery cover if willing to split them, plus the turbo heat shield 

Important to note that rear bar is not legacy fit, it’s for an Impreza 

I know it’s in the description but I almost made the accident of messaging you before looking and it’s worth repeating 

That was parts and labor, and I was able to cash in car rental costs worth about $450 of the total. 

The damage wasn’t too bad, she just brushed into me as she was backing up. I’m not going to fix the fender, the car has 184k miles and some scars are acceptable to me. The damage was estimated around $3k and the doors were $1k.

Pretty off-topic, but I replaced the rear door on my Forester yesterday. Gonna do the front door another time, have to remove the bumper and fender. Some lady backed into my car around thanksgiving, and I grabbed a nice set of silver passenger doors at a local junk yard. The $2k I’m saving from the insurance will just about cover my wagon repairs, which is wonderful.

Also I went to a gathering with my GF last night and her friend has a little garage. He let me drive his M3 s65, and then his STi typeRA, which is track prepped. The M3 was amazing. The STi was a monster. Great experience 

I agree with all this ^ too. If you’re going to keep driving it, run another oil change or two, cheap oil and filters will be fine, but cycle it through a couple times. You’ll still be broken down in 3k miles I bet though 

My cousin recently got a CorollaGR and he loves it. He has a very nice EJ20 swapped GC coupe that I doubt he’ll keep since getting the Corolla.

Oh there’s metal in other places, do a UOA with blackstone to verify (https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/). The cam gears and oil cooler are definitely not cleaned out, even the oil pan will hold metal after flushing. These will all be replaced with a new motor.

Wish you the best of luck, but you have a ticking time bomb on your hands is my bet too. And please don’t try to sell it to someone else as a running car. 

There’s a good bit of info on these questions just from doing basic searches online. In the long run you’ll want to understand these things for yourself and pick a setup that suits your preferences.

If you want to get your feet on the ground you have a basic idea of what will fit and function very well.

Msprank has noted the stiffer pitch stops can actually crack the firewall during normal operation iirc. 

You stated that you didn’t want to mod the fenders and you’re lowered.

The option for upgrading which I provided is mild, and would look and fit great. If you want to go beyond that you’re more than welcome.

I personally run a 17x8 +48 with a 235/45/17 and a 3mm spacer in the rear. I’m lowered with stock fenders. My wheel’s weigh 15.5lbs, and I run a 17” wheel bc my roads suck plus I like the performance aspect of a smaller diameter wheel. I’ll likely size down to a 225/45/17 tire next bc my fronts rub with aggressive loading. I’ve tried probably 2 dozen different wheel and tire setups over 12 years with my wagon. 

I’ll be keeping an eye on this, good pricing 

18x8 +48 with 225/40/18 would look and fit great. Or size down to a 17x8 +48 and 225/45/17.. 18” for better appearance, and 17” for better performance. Neither should require fender work or additional camber to fit.

Weight will make a dramatic difference too, under 20lbs wheel weight ideally.

Nooo, I know that would never happen. It would be a crime to disassemble your LGT anyway.

Hope you get the issue sorted though, lemme know if I can lend a hand.

Sounds like you should probably just part it out… Dibs on the turbo, trans, and I’ll take your wheels. Ahh I’ll just take the whole thing 

A panel filter, catback exhaust and Cobb stg1 is a great place to start. I kept my first LGT sedan there (including a catless uppipe) for the first 50k miles I had it, and while I did everything else I wanted.

On 2/16/2024 at 2:11 PM, Ows said:

cusco front crossmember brace

Does the front crossmember brace replace anything or does it just bolt-in/over the existing front crossmember?