BoozeRS05

I could use the rear brake dust shields badly and ones that fit with the rear Brembo conversion preferably. Any recommendations there from you pros?

Little RBP bump! Quick pic after my yearly inspection sticker 

My hood lock was missing this spring. I have an old ebrake rebuild kit and fashioned a retainer spring in there, lubed it up and everything works like butter.

1 hour ago, 310Z said:

Sounds like you lubed the lock mechanism? But is the cable what needs lube. If it is not moving freely it may keep the lock from latching.

I think it’s the cable and I’ll definitely try lubing, but the lock is now 20 years old too and I’m in my hood all the time. New hood lock is $60 so that’s not bad

I also use rockauto for wheel bearings. Take a look at the warranty period when buying things though, it’s listed in the item description at the very bottom.

Coupon code expires 5/3:

 262207464233985952

I had my yearly inspection this morning and had two failures. My washer sprayer didn’t work, which took about 16 minutes to fix (broken section of hose behind hood scoop), but my hood won’t latch now.

I’ve used lube, obviously, but it’s still not catching. I removed the mechanism and cleaned it, I’ve tried shimming the upper clip to move it further into the locking mechanism, and also adjusting the locking mechanism upwards. Still won’t catch. It looks like the pull cable is loose and not pulling the lock fully closed.

Maybe it’s time to replace the hood lock? Any other suggestions?

Great to see the wagon out there again!
 

@shralp If it makes you feel better weirdly my front left control arm snapped about 6 years ago, turning around in a parking lot. Pulled the axle out of the trans drained most of the fluid right there.

The JDM 19mm rear sway bar is a fantastic option. It’s cheap and makes a significant difference in handling without going all the way in. I highly recommend it for anyone just getting started. Your OEM endlinks might be pretty beat up though, and you might wanna grab something from rockauto in case you have to cut those suckers out.

Lighter wheels and low rolling resistance tires. Also idk if your hood is aluminum or steel. The OEM exhaust could be trimmed down in places and/or reduced to a single exit. SpecB front and rear control, and trailing arms are all aluminum, and would also improve ride quality.

8 minutes ago, NORULZleggy said:

Just a question, why did you not go Koyo Rad? It fits sooo well. I love them.

Well I grabbed the Mishimoto from the classifieds here for a good deal and my previous experience installing one a decade ago was about as painless as installing an OEM unit.

It just took twice as long to align/fit everything, but I’m mostly happy with it esp since I got it for a good price 

Damn Mishimoto radiator install was a pain. Slightly off fit, had to trim most of the hoses, replaced crusty old hose clamps, and the coolant crossover. That little elbow at the water pump should probably be replaced now. Was expecting to be in and out..

Nice pickup! I think the VB is a solid option, maybe not my favorite look, but I’d buy one of these before a VA.

Whenever I see one on the road it looks like a LGT at a glance to me. 

Quite interested in this topic as well. I’ve been on the hunt for a good option since some lady ran into my Forester and tried to blame it on me last November.

I just found a VAVA dash cam that’s BNIB on my local FB marketplace for $100 and it seems like a great unit. Reviews are excellent 

Gave mine a good bath the other day, but I’ve been slacking on taking pics. Installed a GS heat shield and JDM battery cover also, which I’m very satisfied with. Next up is a Mishimoto radiator. State inspection scheduled.

Springtime house/lawnmower maintenance duties have taken over otherwise.

Good advice here, and I also recommend buying the GS unit mentioned above. Hell I was thinking about buying it to replace my Perrin TMIC. And as Jonny mentioned, OEM is generally considered complete sufficient esp after BP treatment.

I always thought the sedan rear wiper blade looked sharp. That would be an awesome touch in my opinion 

My primitive skid plate sat in the corner of my garage for over three years bc of the same issue.. Finally found a mobile welder on FB who fixed it in my driveway. Not the cleanest patch, but it works and cost was appropriate 

Yep, I have a 3mm spacer in the rear only so it’s effectively +45.

I’m at a +45 in the rear with my 3mm spacer, which doesn’t rub on a 235/45/17 and I’m pretty low. It rubs in the front though, just a little, without the spacer.. I’d like to say you’ll be fine with a +45 offset and that tire.

It’s a real PITA finding the best fit and maxing out tire size. I’ve run a 18x8.5 +48 and 225/40/18 in the past without issue. I also had a 17x9 +45 RPF1 with a 235/40/17 and it fit without rubbing except slightly on the inside fender liner. I also had a 18x8.5 +40 with a 235/40/18 and it rubbed a lot even with a decent bit of camber.

A little bit of camber will help make the fronts fit of it only needs a little tweaking, assuming you have a good performance alignment shop nearby.

I have the flexible STi strut top bar and the lower flexible bar too. I installed them top, then lower bar sometime afterwards, and I think there was a nice little improvement. The front end feels tighter, and a little less noisy/less dash rattle. Really happy with them both, just need to install the two other braces that come with it.

I took my wagon to a car show last weekend and was also overwhelmed by the amount of shenanigans. It was pretty embarrassing, although not an overwhelmingly Subaru crowd, but just obnoxious behavior. I left before the police asked everyone to vacate.

Definitely jump on a rear sway bar. I’m not aware, but if the corresponding STi part is plug and play, it’s a great upgrade for cheap. I installed one on my 2014 Forester, which is 20mm and I got one for $50 locally

Well that’s certainly one of a kind…

Boom, new doors installed

Now back to the Legacy… Picking up a Grimmspeed turbo heat shield, JDM battery cover and Mishimoto radiator soon

Idk, I respect silverton’s practicality and knowledge just about as much as anyone on this site. Good luck

Subaru fixed my brake line rupture a couple years ago. They footed the bill, and there was a pretty substantial amount of work, but unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what and the cost.

Same situation though, was about a mile from home and coming to a stop when the pedal went completely soft. I had enough pressure to stop, but I quickly peered under the car and saw fluid pouring from in front of the rear wheel. Limped it home and then another mile and a half to the dealership.