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bms231

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Posts posted by bms231

  1. called Subaru. no updates. the recall line isn't owned by Subaru. farmed out and handles all recall phone traffic for most majors. so pointless calling them. for those who have an acting up car it's amazing the dealership has no info neither does Subaru.

     

    what I was too is the Subaru dealership won't buy the car bc they can't sell it with an open recall. Subaru wants you to keep making payments vs them having an unsellable car. last Subaru I will own. been loyal since 1990.

  2. Valvoline 5w-30 conventional in my 08... 100k miles and 14 years later just did a leak down test and all cylinders perfect and within 3 percent.

     

    based on that and owner's manual... 0w-20 Valvoline.

     

    wife's turbo Mazda is 5w30 while non turbo is 0w20. wish Subaru would put 5w30 in their turbo cars.

  3. Default to which ever comes first really. Oil's lubrication properties will break down overtime even if you don't drive the car much.

    I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles and have had no issues. 194k miles on the original engine

     

    That is factually untrue according to my last oil analysis from blackstone labratories who if you dont know about them they do millions of oil analyses. I was actually happy to see on my last UOA they said don't go by date.

  4. Just curious as to hear what you guys are doing when you have low mileage and you are told you have to service by "whichever comes first."

     

     

    mysubar.com, subaru, and the car all like to remind me the 24m/24,000 mile service is due for example. i have 5500 miles on my car. i work from home. hell i dont think most people during the pandemic drove 12K a year anyways. subaru says ever 6 months you MUST change the oil (or you will be shot). Dealer says "don't go by that no one cares" and doesn't know what a 24 month service entails despite giving a print out from subaru.

  5. Why do i have to remote start my car you ask? to give it enough time so:

     

    1. the navigation becomes responsive and i can disable collision avoidance (class action currently against it bc it sucks so bad)

    2. for the engine to idle down so when i go from R to D the CVT doesn't make chirp so loud my neighbors hear it. btw, dealer says this is normal.

  6. Wondering if anyone can shed some light on this. i have the ability to remote start via starlink. it's super slow imo. Wondering what exactly is required to get remote start via existing key fob. Does anyone have that?

     

     

    in the manual and online there is a procedure to use the current key fob to remote start. doesn't work.

     

    remotestart.JPG.c3a7aa012612d6747185042bddf9b61a.JPG

     

     

    Then there is this part which is a whole new key fob dedicated only for remote start.

     

    https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2020_Legacy-24L-CVT-4WD-Limited/Remote-Engine-Starter---Push-Start/97174878/H001SAN001.html

     

     

    Two things:

    1. I don't want a second huge ass key fob

    2. Since the car can already be remote started by starlink, why would additional hardware have to be installed by a dealer to do the exact same thing starlink does? Doesn't matter starlink operates on ATT and key fob is RF. Both go to a computer and the computer triggers an action.

     

    I don't want an uneducated dealer to try and sell me some aftermarket junk that isn't really required when there is some software bit that simply needs to be switched.

  7. Price of pending purchase, Austin, TX, 1/29/22 Legacy Premium

     

    Could not find a dealer in central Texas who would currently honor True or Consumer Reports discount pricing and all were marking up over MSRP - some were doing it openly and some were inflating "mandatory" dealer add ons.

     

    This is how our Legacy order, as we finally entered it, looked [rounded pricing to nearest dollar]:

     

    2022 Legacy Premium ice silver metallic/titanium gray cloth

    includes: all weather floor liners, cargo tray, rear seatback protector, body side molding, door edge protector, splash guards, fog lamps, 2yr/24k maintenance

     

    MSRP list includes $925 delivery fee $27,577

    "market upcharge" 1000

    "install charge fog lights" 459

    TTL 2033

    various dealer doc fees 188

    Starlink 3 yr subscription 80

     

    Drive out [in April, maybe] price $31337

     

    Obviously the markup is what the market can bear here, but is a bit painful. To go out of state to negotiate created just enough hassle to deter us. The dealer install charge on the fog lamps struck me as bogus, but it might not be, IDK.

     

    BTW: the asking price for certified 2020 and 2021 Legacy Premiums is currently higher than for new at three central Texas dealerships - taking advantage of folks who would not wait 10 weeks for a promised delivery, I guess.

     

     

    report the dealer to SOA for that market upcharge. many manufacturers have sent out letters forbidding dealers to pull that crap otherwise they will reduce their allocations. i would never ever buy from a dealership who puts BS charges like that on me. sorry you chose a volatile business. not my problem. i dont need anything that bad in life i can't wait or go to another dealer.

  8. been an issue since day 1 with 3 updates. it's amazing how an American company, dodge, can make an infotainment system vastly superior to an Asian brand. it all comes down to crap hardware trying to save fifteen dollars and crap software. mine is frozen for at least 45 seconds on startup trying to get to the vehicle menu to disable collision avoidance which is such a major failure on these vehicles there is a class action do it.
  9. called SOA and naturally said take it to dealer. my buddy works at a dealership and said there isnt anything they can do. so basically i gotta go down there for them to say "cant reproduce" to have it logged as an issue. let me know if anyone else has any luck.

     

    as a software developer, these cars are connected to the internet. you should be able to directly send stack traces/dumps to subaru like u can with most modern apps.

  10. So, @bms231 - You can have your dealer change the bias for the climate from -3 to +3 in whole numbers. I've read posts on the OB forum that asked the dealer use the SST to change it to "0" and it was more "normal"... I have the same experience in my 21 OBXT with the climate being hot or freezing.

     

    The Forester had a Climate mode where you could specify "Eco" "Normal" "Comfort" and "Power" modes. The OBXT does not, so I infer that the Leg doesn't either. Unfortunately.

     

    It's been about 3 months with my OBXT. I'm starting to finally love it. When I first got it, I knew I wanted the extra power over the base engine. The infotainment took a couple weeks before I figured out what I wanted to do quickly. There's a learning curve. But once you learn it, you know. No hunting through submenus or anything like that.

     

    No CarPlay glitches since I started using a Genuine Apple cable. Everything working well.

     

    Have set the Cruise Control characteristics to "4 - Dynamic" per some suggestions on the OB forums, and it makes the car more fun to drive - since we don't get the SI-Drive option. It kind of feels like the sportier tip-in. Maybe the computer holds revs higher before doing the fake shifts.

     

    I went to the dealer and did the CCM update recalled and changed the temp offset from 0 to -3. only issue is I think the CCM update changes it from 3 to 0. so 77 became air conditioning. I had them set it to 0 again with the latest firmware...308 I believe... and 68 actually held 68 this time.

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