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ean611

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Posts posted by ean611

  1. There is a good reason for hadvw's observation, how far the contact point is in the button.

     

    The stick up/down selection triggers with 1/4-1/2 of the range of movement, so it's already shifting when the stick hits the end of the track. The button must be pushed all the way.

     

    I've used both the paddles and stick on my 08, and the button and stick on my wife's 05. The difference is perception.

  2. was the tcc engaged ? i don't think it was thats why the torque numbers were so high.

     

    Honestly? No idea.

     

    Bottom line, in the butt dyno, it feels fast. If I get around 3200 RPM, I rarely hit peak boost, because on the street, it's too fast for that. At least on winter tires :)

     

    EDIT:

    FYI

    650cc DW

    DP, UP

    GMS Cat back (stock mufflers)

    RacerX FMIC

    Walboro FP

    AEM CAI

    EBCS

    and of course, VF52

    TRUCOOL tranny cooler

  3. I only peaked like 340wtq but that was at 4500rpm. My car was strapped on the dyno so tight the bc's were compressed almost to bumpstop in the rear. Lol.

     

    http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m636/MotiveHero/0fd72cc6.jpg

     

    That looks awesome.

     

    I'm sure when your car passes 4400 RPM it flies.

  4. Heh, I "Only" have a VF52.

     

    IMG_20120113_155035.jpg

     

    Dent Sport's dyno produces the lowest readings in the northeast. Lower than EFI, ESP, etc.

     

    Despite that, yes, that is 400 lb-ft at 3100 RPM.

     

    Point is, I almost never make it redline street driving. Lifting off on shifts is a way of life. The delay from the TCU doesn't help though.

     

    EDIT: https://picasaweb.google.com/107596502778874744799/DynoGraphs?feat=content_notification Those are the same dyno. Most of those cars are bonkers, but there are a few "sane" cars to bias it on. WRX swapped CG8 (stg2) at 211hp. STG2 STI at 277.

  5. Stop. Asking. I. Am. Working. On. It.

     

    You can get all the IPT work in the world done to your 08, but I know with absolute objective certainty you will end up spending a fortune and getting a product that shifts and holds power with inferiority. It makes no difference to me what anyone plans or buys. The product will be ready when it's ready, end of story. If you want to go with IPT, more power to you. But as a reminder, people aren't shipping me their IPT VBs for a F1 conversion just because they like my pink avatar. Well... maybe they are... I never asked...

     

    I like your pink avatar.

     

    EDIT: I had an IPT VB, replaced by stock VB under warranty. Honestly, I don't notice a difference. I'm patiently waiting for this.

  6. Spent the whole evening working on valve bodies. I'm supposed to be modding 3 (2 F1 Cores and a regular F1), which I am doing.

    But I also went nuts on a tangent re-analyzing a lot of internal parts, and I found a few ways to revise the F1 product. VERY EXCITED TO TEST THESE NEW IDEAS OUT!!!

     

    I also figured out a solution to the 1>2 clunk for the few who have it. Again, just need to test it.

     

    I haven't been this excited about valve bodies in a while, but this could be exactly what I need to jump ahead with the 08-09s.

     

    Awesome.

     

    :)

  7. all 07+ lgt's in the u.s were si drive

     

    In other words, if you were lucky enough to buy an 07, you get SI drive, and ClimberD can mod your VB.

     

    If you have an 08....Well, time to wait a bit more....

     

    http://d37nnnqwv9amwr.cloudfront.net/photos/images/newsfeed/000/181/813/1726009-shut_up_and_take_my_money_super.jpg?1317708806

  8. Being as how i am from the car audio world, i myself and dozens of other car audio enthusiests have overpowered equipment daily and out performs beyond manufacturer

    Suggested power. Ask anyone who knows a thing or 2 about speaker box design. The box is everything. That and having quality equipment. And i encourage you guys who are interested in learning a thing or 2 about car audio to join and or read/ browse the forum i posted. Theres 2 ways a woofer fails. Mechanical and thermal failure. Thermal failure can come from overpowering and or dirty power which comes fromm a clipped signal.

     

    You should never set your amp gain above 3/4. Upgrading electrical such as wire,and charging system will help your signal problems

     

    Thread was about electrical failure, not mechanical. For electrical failure, that is melting a voice coil due to heat buildup, box design does not matter.

  9. i didnt read through all of the posts because i never do. a 1k watt woof can take 1200 no problem. everything is about the speaker box. if you wanna put more watts to your woof then the cu ft of the box is going to be smaller than manufacturer specs. also it dosent hurt to turn it down. ive blown my fair share of equip. testing limits of stuff. i say set the gain a little lower. on another note.

     

    here is a great car audio forum a local guy i know has. ive been a member for 4 years or so. any questions head over there and join. www.stevemeadedesigns.com

     

    No. Not accurate. Box is irrelevant for power handling.

     

    Bottom line, 1000w rated woofer will only take 1000w. If you run more than 1000w through it, it'll blow. However, 1000w is a shit ton of power. (Technical term). The 1200w amp will likely have the gain turned down a lot, which means that the power output never exceeds what the woofer can take. It's very typical to have an amp with higher ratings than a driver, but the trick is not to turn the gain up enough that you exceed the power level of the driver.

     

    Boxes don't matter to voice coil heat build up. A box design won't stop a voice coil from melting.

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