ERLoft

Probably true - everything warms up. But the spacers will also help the cool down effect as well. Or you can go with ZeroLift composite TGV deletes - paired with a stock intake manifold should help see a nice drop in charge temps, which could increase power and/or mileage...

From what I've read, these only take 1 extra sensor input, right? I wish it were two - I'd love to have just this with boost, oil temp & pressure and a V3 AP as the only items in the car...

Looks nice, but damn, that's a lot of gauges. I like a little less cluttered for my own ride. After my swap is done, a V3 AP will go in and be used as most of my gauges. I think the only gauge I'll run other than that is a VEI combo oil pressure/temperature gauge.

Was reading through this thread and thought I'd contribute: Back when I had my 02 WRX and tracked it quite a bit, I used about 5 gallons of Toluene plus some MMO mixed to 10-11 gallons of 100 octane. That makes for one very high octane mix with very low chance of detonation and a lot of power. Figure you end up with a tank of about 107 octane fuel when you do that (Toluene is 121 RON)...

Thread resurrection. So, I ordered the STi replica spoiler from EBay. Since I have a factory wing, I'm going to have to have the trunk repaired after it's been removed. Just got quoted $350 to fill, repair and respray my trunk and respray my JDM grill. Sound like a good price? The shop has excellent reviews on Yelp, so I'm thinking it's a solid bet. Should I do the removal of the old wing and install the new lip spoiler prior to painting? (The lip is supposed to come painted, code 65z) If the paint looks 'right' on the lip spoiler, I figured I could drill and install it after it's been done - just gotta put some rust stop around the drill holes...

Just spotted a nicely modded SWP LGT at PCH and Capistrano in El Granada. I was in Flavors restaurant, so no wave...

Yes, Rick did all the work and I can't really complain about the price. I definitely have patience going on for the break in period - no sense in screwing up the engine long term by not allowing the rings adequate time to seat properly! In a month or so, I should be out of the primary break in period, so I think I can hold out that long...

Finally got my car back yesterday. New shortblock, turbo, drive belts, plugs, gaskets, head studs, coolant hoses, oil lines, oil pump, water pump, etc. Also had them do the clutch & flywheel while the engine was out of the car and some minor maintenance stuff like power steering flush, HEPA filter, replace a couple of hoses under the hood and had them install a new Optima red top battery. (I have a hook up for wholesale price on that, so it was $40 less for an Optima than an OEM Subaru battery...) Car seems to be good, although I have to baby it through the break in period. 1k miles at max 4k rpm, then slowly increasing rpms from there... Guess I'm just going to leave it in "I" mode through break in, and have a stock style map on the ECU for now, lol... I also had them remove the SPT intake and reinstall the stock airbox with a K&N panel filter... Total out of pocket out the door was just over $3900. I figure that's not too bad all things considered. Once I'm caught up, maybe in the fall, now I'm thinking about going to a BNR billet 18g.

So, I stopped by KM Subaru yesterday, talked with Rick. I held piston #4 in my hand - yep, broken ring lands, broken rings. Yuk. The also found a small crack in the turbo bellhousing, so Rick was going to suggest that they replace the turbo as well. So KM Subaru talked to the SOA rep, and their offer is to cover a shortblock and turbo at 50% - which means it costs me $2800. Yes, this isn't actually too bad a cost - I think I'd end up paying more than that in parts to do it myself. However, I have it on pretty good authority that if I pursue this politely but firmly with SOA, that they will relent and cover it 100%. I'm certainly going to pursue this route and see where it takes me - can't hurt. Along with the engine problem, Rick suggested I do the clutch now. The current clutch is just starting to show signs of shredding on the disc, so it would make it another 20k miles probably, but given that the engine is out of the car, they won't charge me labor and a new clutch/flywheel etc will be $930, which I think isn't too bad. I need to look on SubaruParts.com to see what a Spec.B clutch assembly and flywheel go for there. Rick also suggested: Canister purge pipe hose ( worn) $29.96 Throttle body airduct (oil soaked) $40.86 Battery,hold down,positive terminal (corrosion) $190.38 Drive belts (poor shape)$62.58 Hepa Filter $86.26 Power Steering Flush $102.70 These all seem pretty reasonable to me - but anyone have any feedback on the prices? Also, would it be worth switching over to an Optima battery as long as I'm replacing the battery? Feedback on KM Subaru - Tina the service writer has been great, and Rick Dell is truly a master technician. I've been very happy with them thus far - I know the question of how much will be covered under warranty is farther up the chain, so I can't fault KM for the initial 50% offer.

Thanks much. I've actually found the shortblock for as little as $1700, so that's not bad. I figure I also need new gaskets, studs, belts and may as well do plugs while I'm at it. Can you think of anything else needed? Besides fluids of course....

Hmm, can't search that part number. Can you post a link to it? Thanks!

Got a P0304 about two weeks ago - less than a month after paying off the car, OF COURSE. After doing a reset and putting in some Lucas fuel treatment, it came back. Dropped off at the dealership on Friday, got a call back that it may be a melted piston?? It's currently there awaiting District Manager approval to do a teardown, and I'm figuring if when they call back, I'm going to have to ask them to do compression and leakdown tests if they haven't already. May not be covered under warranty, due to an SPT intake (yeah, I know, shouldn't be there, but the car came from the dealership with it and when I tried to remove it, the MAF screws were stuck...) AutoSpeed exhaust and AVO intercooler. I'm hopeful that they will cover it, as the car makes substantially less power than an STi with the same shortblock, but if not, I'll probably buy either new heads or a new shortblock, depending on the results of the compression and leakdown tests and do the work myself. I've found brand new EJ257 shortblocks for as low as $1800, which will be a lot less than the dealership will charge to do it. Even with a full set of new OEM gaskets and studs, I think I'll be under $2500 to do the job. Anyone had to do similar work and have a cost on it?

I hold it true, whate'er befall; I feel it, when I sorrow most; 'Tis better to have loved and lost Than never to have loved at all. Lord Alfred Tennyson