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ama0787

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Posts posted by ama0787

  1. Purchased an 08 STi Trans/Diff swap with spec B axels and driveshaft. And not really surprisingly (thanks to all the information in this thread) I believe I have everything else (small parts) lined up to complete the swap!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Look into the linkage stuff I thought i was ready bought all new oem stuff basically everywhere and the u joint and some bushing really caused me some delays.

     

    If you or anyone needs the shift rod that is longer on the spec B than on the sti I have a brand new on never installed that is for sale.

  2. does anyone know if the shift rod for spec b 35041AG020 comes with the adapter u joint; trunnion; whatever you want to call it it looks like 2 cylinders turned 90 degrees and welded together so you can put a bolt through each cylinder holding the shift linkage to the trans shift rod bracket.

     

    TIA,

    Anthony

     

    *EDIT* 35041AG020

     

    Does contain the u-joint trunnion or whatever you want to call the two cylinders welded together that allow you to bolt the shift linkage to the transmission shift rod bracket.

  3. I thought that the hard line had a junction point (figured on a tab that is part or welded to firewall or just behind it under the car) then ran a soft or braided line that connected to slave?

     

    Anyway spec B hard line part number 37250ag03a is no longer available will sti part number for its hard line work?

     

    Spec B and regular gt run the same slave cylinder it is suprising the hard lines would be different. I assume you are telling me this from experience.

  4. Looks like you bought number 6 and the part you were trying to buy should be numbered 1 or 2 depending on the year but you can probably just reuse the bolts you remove.

     

    Not sure if this is your problem or not but on supposed forces sometimes the part number is not listed for every part that is numbered in the diagram sometimes you can find it on the previous or following page but not always sometimes frustrating with opposed forces but all in all very good site for referencing part numbers

  5. Put your old rotor on the lugs backwards tighten a few of the nuts down and brake out the sledge hammer.... Will save you lots of pain and suffering 1-3 whacks usually gets it the bigger/heavier the hammer the bed definitely a sledgehammer of some sort not a regular one.

     

     

    I had one frozen on so bad I broke the rotor partially still came off quick but it is crazy how strong that corrosive bond can be.

     

     

    Good luck.

  6. Unclemat,

     

    You pull motor out from top right? No dropping subframe.

     

     

    Are you working from ground or jackstands correct?

     

    Im thinking of pulling whole thing so i can do some preventative seal changes. I am also doing timing belt.

     

     

    Also you guys recommending a lift realize i am using 4 post with ramps not a 2 post with swing arms?

     

    TIA,

    Anthony

  7. I usually agree but changed tranny in a Avalon for my parents and regretted it. Subframe had to come out which wich meant car had to be lifted off lift platforms just as high as it would from ground. After it setting on platforms i had to wedge cherry picker up against end of lift and hook come along up and pull it from under the car.. Giant pain in the ass

     

    Point of story i have to be able to remove items between the ramps/platforms of the 4 post lift. I assume the suby stuff would fit but figured it was worth asking.

     

     

    Thanks,

    Anthony

  8. Delta, sell me your spec.b STS and pick up an STi one.

     

     

    Spec b and sti sts part numbers have both superseeded from original part number to the same part number currently.

     

    So cables must be close enough to work either way or they started using a cable in between lengths.

  9. I am doing swap also and will have same parts for sale also mine has factory sts on which i reall like. After posters stuff is sold ill sell to anyone else interested.

     

    Op i went with sti sts (my be considered sti spt sts) you can get it for under 300$ new o think its 308$ if you pull it up correctly and they run 10-20^% discounts regularly. Just cross reference parts a lot. Thete is only one sts made for spec b and newer sti's all part numbers supersede to the same newer number but i noticed you can find 3 different prices for the same sts at the sane store depending how you look it up. $308 is best i coukd fone i think 284 after 20%

     

    If you can find a complete unit for sale for 100 or less id go for a new one. Most the time people buy a aftermarket sts which is just the lever part and sell what that replaces not the entire set up. The sti sts is actually cheaper than buying the stock sti shifter because its a complete assembly.

  10. You look for a pipe running along middle of tranny on drivers side cant miss it.

     

    I think they are cool but only there for adding external cooler. Rallispec has used both variation in racing and rally race cars and said they have never had problems with either and assume maybe the wrc pver seas takes advantage of the pipe for external cooling. Even though pump was done away with in late 07 models it was homologated so rally teams could still use it.

     

     

    If i had a choice id get a tranny with one i know of kniw other tranny with a rotor driven pump that delivers the oil but went for best deal and lowest miles.

  11. All should well assuming you correctly are matching what you currently have which I believe spec B could be either i think you are the 1.1(3.54) you will have to drill hole for wiring into the housing.....If it doesnt match you could always look into changing rear end so it matches center if dccdc is that important and price on center is right.

     

    There is a link on the first page of this thread that talks about differences in spec b ratios i believe

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