dark_rex

I have a pistol to run in limited if I can work a few issues out with it (P226 X5 .40 S&W) namely the damn slide stop lever is huge, the trigger could use some work, and I don’t care for the sights. It’s also absurdly over sprung.

 

Aside from the X5 I already have, any reason not to pick up a CZ for shooting in divisions with “minor” only scoring?

Is the slide on the 320 not locking back because it's hitting your grip?

Consider swapping the legion slide stop onto the 226. It's a direct swap. The gray guns triggers are really nice too. MAybe just consider swapping the 226 for a 226 legion, which will have the better sights, trigger and lever installed from the factory.

dR

where can I get

front fender

front left door

right side skirt

front and rear bumper

 

all painted?

+1 looking for a replacemnet sideskirt.

dR

Anything west of 95/128 is Western MA.

+1

lol

waltham/boston.

w000t!!!

Why not just spell correctly in the first place?

because this isn't a literature exam. it's an automotive discussion forum. the goal is to discuss auto related, and legacy specific topics rather than nitpick and BS about the spelling of something.

Perhaps it would be more useful to either participate or contribute to the matter at hand, rather than criticizing some irrelevant issue to make yourself feel important or inflate your post count or try and look smarter than someone.

dR

If you do, can you start it off with correct spelling?

 

 

"Stuttering" is the correct spelling for this word. People who watched too many episodes of American Idol have taken to spelling it the other way...

 

why is the spelling so important? everyone knows what it's about.

grammar nazi?

dark_rex,

 

That's why Manual Air/Fuel Ratio controllers exist and Manual Boost controllers don't.

what?

Im quite happy with Cobb's Stage 1 map. My studdering issue is about 95% gone. I only experience it when the car is cold and it is humid out.

 

I wont be going in for the fix. Unless it becomes a recall I'll stay with whats working for me.

from the horses mouth.

most of the threads i've read also say this.

i never said it wasn't a computer issue. the computer is controlling the a/f, and the reflash alters it. I'm not sure what else i can post up to explain it to you. stock a/fs are sub 10, or around 10, and tuned are 11-11.5. the links i posted are every one i could find on the site.

i don't care what you say. adding 1.5 parts air to the ratio is a substantially leaner a/f.

:shrug:

Aluminum most certainly will undergo rapid oxidation (combustion) at high temperatures in an oxygen-rich atmosphere. Steel will also burn under those conditions - but it takes slightly higher temps. Probably not the only failure mode of a poorly tuned FI engine, but a very possible one. I've seen it first-hand...

aluminum only starts to soften at 1600 degrees. it would have to be significantly hotter for it to actually combust. i'm sorry, "at high temperatures" may be right, but very unlikey in your subaru. you will certainly kill the engine long before aluminum angine parts actually burn. as i said, when they heat up, they can become more brittle and pit, chip, or crack or bend/warp. those are the real risks.

In most cases, the A/F ratios after tuning are very nearly the same as before tuning. The idea that aftermarket tuners are increasing this, or any other, engine's output by leaning out the A/F ratio is simply false (this was your original contention). The increase in power comes from increased boost and the increased fuel delivery to support it. Period. They may tweak or slightly adjust the A/F, but the power to be gained there is minimal.

SIMPLY FALSE? Maybe you should check all the links i've posted below proving you wrong. period! lol

Cobb's tuning is more in the 11:1 range - probably not too far off of Subaru's stock A/F values, maybe even a bit richer. If you don't believe me, check Cobb's website and see for yourself.

Seriously, are you just making this up as you go along? richer?

stock dyno run.

9.5:1 AFR from 3500rpms to redline.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8578

final protuned dyno run

13:1 AFR falling to 11.5:1 at redline.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13324&highlight=dyno+charts

Stage I AFRs

about 2 points leaner again.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13405&highlight=dyno+charts

Dan at Mach IV

with his maps leaning out 2 pts to 11:1

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8604&page=3&pp=10&highlight=dyno+chart+graph

would you call going from 9:1 to 11:1 richer? haha.

back on topic, as i said, it looks like the people with aftermarket maps are not having studdering problems, so it seems likely the rich stock condition is being remedied with the aftermarket ECUs, and fixing the studder.

dR

Ummmm. I think you're confused. Typically when increasing boost, tuners will alter the fuel tables to add more fuel to specifically avoid a lean condition. A/F ratio and boost target tables can be controlled and manipulated independently from each other.

 

If you were silly enough to increase boost without also increasing fuel delivery, the engine would, in fact, run lean... At least for a few minutes before your pistons burn.

Look. you're totally misinterpreting me. I'm saying the legacy (like all turbo subarus) is programmed to run very rich in stock form. one of the reasons pro tuners are finding so much more power with a simple reflash is b/c they are, as you say, "independantly" controlling air and fuel. leaner mixes make more power. if the car is running 11.1 a/f, a tuner can increase boost "independantly" of the fuelling to achieve target a/f (14:1 or whatever) which inherently is a more efficeint, powerful mix.

"tuners are just increasing boost" doesn't make sense. pro tuners are adjusting timing, air and fuel all independantly to achieve target a/fs, as well as egt levels. "boost" alone doesn't mean squat.

as for the ECU compensating due to MAF readings, that's fine. but that's also exactly why you have a tuner reflash your ECU. changing the tables so the ECU reacts differenlty under certain conditions is precisely the reason you spend $600.

pistons don't "burn" unless you are running TOO lean, or detonating. they don't actually burn though. running too lean risks high egts, preignition and/or detonation which could lead to broken ring lands, crowns, pitting, burnt valves, etc. nothign actually "burns"

simply, if the legacy is in fact running pig rich from the factory, it would potentially explain why

1) tuners are getting so much more power with just a reflash, and

2) we are having surging/studder issues.

dR

The increased power comes from increasing the boost, not changing the A/F ratio. Also, I have Cobb stage 1/91 and, while the stutter is improved, it's not gone completely.

increasing the boost DOES change the A/F ratio. more boost = more air = more lean.

dR

dark_rex : the ECU tuners tune the actual A/F ratios and so they aren't depending on Subaru's stock A/F map to give them more fuel. Any power increases from the ECU tuners comes from raising boost, but correct me if I'm wrong.

That's what I'm saying. the tuners are able to lean the a/f out substantially enough to get to a 50hp gain. it's probably not coincidence that after you're reflashed and 50hp to the good, you also no longer have the studder.

dR

it would make sense that the car is running too rich. otherwise, all these ECU tuners like AP and ECUtek wouldn't be extracting the huge 20% gains with nothign more than a reflash.

dR

I must say, the more i read this thread, the less interested i am in the reflash.

ECUtek here i come... lol

it's doubtful your butt meter produced anythign valuable there.

gas is gas, unless there is a real octane rating difference. even so, it's unlikely you could notice a difference.

Even if there was a difference, you're butt dyno could never distinguish the TINY difference (associated with amybe a slightly different timing profile once the ECU learns it)

dR

great news guys. be sure to post up the results!

dR

Has anyone tried to bring their cars to a dealership in or around Boston area for this????

 

Any input???

 

Tx

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA

+1

Weird cause I have heard awesome reviews from Natick Subaru (where I bought mine) and Planet Subaru in NH... ;-)

 

So we should be all set, I hope.. hehehehehe

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA

i had a great purchasing experience at natick.

the following service dept interaction was AWFUL. worst i've ever seen, and borderline fraudulant.

Cityside has been pretty good though. they just moved to a nice new location too.

dR

Looks like Chicago area needs to have better SUBARU dealerships...

 

You definitely should address this up with SOA!!!!!!!

 

Ridiculous...

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA:mad:

from my experience, Boston isn't in much better shape. Hopefully my new relationship with Planet will be different.

dR

i prefer WIX brand filters by DANA

always rated very high in testing.

dR

Oh crap! Everyone, get those cats back on, QUICK!

i don't think i said that anywhere in my post.

so

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

right back at you

dR

removing or alterring factory emission control systems is a FEDERAL offense, and almost certainly violates some of your state level laws as well. Don't tamper with this and pretend you're within the law. Some states are tougher with enforcement than others, but that doesn't make it legal.

dR

Sometimes asking nicely verks.

nah. i'll demand, and clench my fists and make funny angry faces.

dR

what should the people do who are just buying one? demand the reflash be done before buying it?

dR