MilesA

Re-man axles are kind of a crap shoot. Convenient, but I'd rather go the rebuild route. I guess I'm old-fashioned that way.

It reminds me of something else. In digital telephone systems, they actually inject artificial noise into the signal you hear, because otherwise there would be dead silence when people were not speaking. People would think there was something wrong with the phone. This is known as "comfort noise". So, we are being faked out to make us feel better.

Good info so far. There are a few tricks if you have not done this job before. I remember cursing a lot the first time I did it.

 

Here's a few tips:

 

-Getting the coil packs out of the way can be difficult on the rear two cylinders. Once you've removed the 10mm retaining bolts, you can rotate the coil packs 180 degrees making them slip out more easily. You don't necessarily have to remove the wiring harness from the coil pack -- the wiring harness is a bit fragile so it's less likely to break if you just leave it attached.

-The combo of spark plug socket, u-joint and short extension is just the right length to reach the spark plug and leave room to attach a ratchet. A low-profile ratchet helps give you more room to work.

-Don't over-tighten. The spark plugs thread into fairly soft aluminum. Use the torque specs above or tighten each plug by hand and turn no more than an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn until firmly seated.

-Some people recommend using anti-seize on the plug threads. NGK advises not to use it. The plugs already have a coating on them to prevent seizing.

Is there konis that are not inserts?? I think I am aiming for a stock feel ride. After one day with the bilsteins, my back hurts...

Konis with stock 3.6R springs might give you a ride that is close to stock, but more controlled. The adjustable feature is helpful.

 

Konis are inserts in the front, but installation is really not bad at all. The best way is to use a pipe cutter tool for a clean cut, but a sawzall with a fresh blade works OK with the strut secured in a vice. Koni rear shocks are a direct replacement.

are the cv axles the same on the spec b as the LGT?

Yes, they are.

I'll let you know when my new 2005 LGT dashboard gets here. It was starting to show the problem, so I took the car in just before the deadline. The service people told me they were ordering a new dashboard, but it could take up to six months to get here based on what they have seen. It is not as bad as most of the pictures on here, though.

Hard to type EyeSight® on those itty bitty phone keyboards...

Yep. Oil line is a 1k dollar dealer job

You've got to be kidding me. Oh, wait, maybe you're not.

Been answered multiple times, the default mode is on, it can be shut off temporarily which generates multiple annoying dash lights, there to remind you that you have disabled the safety systems integrated into the car.

 

Those lights also come on, rarely, when the system disables itself (such as in very bright sunlight or torrential downpours).

 

You cannot permanently disable the system, that is the answer.

 

But you, or OP, or anyone else is free to ask their dealer or SOA how to do so. Expect them to tell you it is not possible, feel free to prove me wrong, but stop saying we haven't answered the question, how many times do we need to say the same thing, in multiple ways, before you believe the answer?

 

Let's hear from another new person telling us we haven't answered the original question...just offered opinions...

 

PS: EyeSight, not EyeSite, Subaru spells like a champ.

 

OK, thanks. Spelling, right, I'm surprised they were able to get a trademark on that. Marketing people often misspell things on purpose.

We did, there is no "safe" way to permanently disable Eyesight, which is integrated into the car he bought.

 

He can ask the dealer to disable it, call SOA, or complain on this forum, but the answer is either get used to it (or the multiple warning lights when he disables is with the buttons below the dash), or trade for a car without it (not all 3.6 come with Eyesight, just most of them).

What I think he wanted to know is, the default behavior is "on" when ignition is switched on, is it possible to change the default to "off"? I'd like to know myself, in case I have EyeSite on my next car. There are plenty of situations where EyeSite is not desirable (many of them enumerated in the owner's manual). Instead, he gets hit with a bunch of commentary. Just answer the question if you know the answer, seems reasonable even if you don't think it's a good idea for YOU to change the default. IMHO.

Wow, I'm enjoying watching you do this project. Thanks for all the pictures and info. Good luck.

Congratulations, Hammer Down, that is really impressive. With your amazing oiling system and driving most of the miles on long highway trips, I wonder how far she'll go? Are you planning to carry on and discover the limits?

Quirk #1 - This is the most odd to me. The car has an external temperature gauge and it pops up this ominous audible and visual warning when it's 37 degrees outside! Why 37, what engineer choose that completely random number. I could care less if it's 37, I want to know when it's 32 and freezing. Does it freeze at 37 in Japan lol?

 

Quirk #2 - The way the car only tracks remaining miles available based on fuel level. It doesn't do it down to the single numbers, only by 10's. If that makes sense. So like when your getting low on gas, it'll tell you 50 miles remaining, then a while later it drops to 40, 30, and so on. It doesn't track it 50, 49, 48, 47, etc. I find that odd.

 

I don't want to ruin the fun by going into Dr. Science mode, but...

 

For #1, the temperature of the roadway can be cooler than the temperature of the air a few feet above, meaning you should be wary of ice when the temperature of the air is close to the freezing point. This is especially so for bridges and overpasses, that can ice up before the rest of the road.

 

For #2, I always interpreted these "miles to go" numbers as rough estimates. The display only shows approximate range and does not try to imply these numbers are exact.

Bringing the sub back to life..

I use Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 and I have used it for 70,000 mi. I have a 2.5i but still of course burn oil. Gaskets have been replaced. I live in a humid subtropical region. Should I switch to 5w-40 to reduce the amount burned between changes?

Should not hurt anything except gas mileage if you want to experiment. Or perhaps try another brand of synthetic 5W30 and see if it makes a difference.

It's fuel.......replace it

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Obviously, it should be replaced. That's why I said temporary. As in, until he can find the part. Tough crowd.

 

If you have ever seen a vehicle burn up from a fuel leak (VW Bus, anyone), you don't want to chance it.

Do you think it's possible to fill the crack and temporarily repair it with epoxy?