MilesA

Does anyone know if the TSBs are covered outside the 3yr 36k warranty/ in the extended warranty?

For instance, there was a TSB related to dashboard material deteriorating. Even though my car was a 2005 model, I just had to get it checked at the dealership before March 30 of this year. They covered it, so I have a new dashboard installed at no cost to me, twelve years after I bought the car.

Airbag problems, no time or mileage limits.

There was a wheel bearing TSB that extended your warranty to 8 years or 100K miles on rear wheel bearings only.

Cold weather may be a factor, since your battery loses a lot of capacity when it is cold. Meaning this issue could have been present for awhile, but was hidden until the weather got colder and stayed cold.

There's always a small percentage of defective parts, but the most common cause of this type of problem is the battery is being slowly drained by something in the electrical system. For example, aftermarket alarms, remote starters, stereos, trunk light staying on, etc.

Your electrical system just needs to be checked out. There's simple tests that can be done for the battery and alternator. If they are healthy, you probably have the problem with a hidden power drain.

Who are the ones with the arrows sticking out of the back?

This could be one of those gifts that is more expensive than it first appears. Here's just a few things that come to mind.

I think the front crossmember that the engine mounts to is different in the later cars. The turbo is under the engine and exhaust is not at all the same. You will need some custom exhaust work.

FA engines use direct injection that is a higher pressure fuel system than what you have now.

You will need a hood with scoop for the top-mount intercooler.

You will need a rear differential that matches the final drive ratio in the new transmission.

Wiring seems to be a big challenge and that requires some specialized skill and experience.

As the joke goes, you can tell who are the Pioneers, they are the ones with arrows sticking out of the front.

You can use a small cutoff wheel in a drill. Not much space to work.

Brakes failed on my 07 LGT on the highway a few weeks ago due to this issue. My girlfriend was driving alone at the time. Car was inspected earlier in the year by a dealer local to me...

Brakes failed on my 07 LGT on the highway a few weeks ago due to this issue. My girlfriend was driving alone at the time. Car was inspected earlier in the year by a dealer local to me.

 

Honestly, I think replacement should be mandatory and that 4g Legacy owners should plan for it around the 100k mark, especially in the Northeast.

...Notice how the lines coming from inside the car are spotless, while the lines running to the calipers are almost gone. Since the two lines are are only inches apart from each other, I would have expected the body side to be in much worse shape, this tells me that they used inferior lines for the ones that run to the calipers...

Not necessarily differences in quality of the lines. Corrosion can be a galvanic process meaning you have dissimilar metals electrically connected in the presence of an electrolyte.

Those lines running inside the car are not exposed to the elements nor to road salt and damp. Inside lines may also be more isolated electrically. It follows there is not much corrosion for them.

If you can do the test with the colored solution it will tell you definitely yes or no if the head gaskets are causing the issue.

Head gaskets can fail in several different ways. Sometimes, you would see oil and antifreeze mix, but not always. Other times, you see an external leak of oil or coolant. In your case, the pressure from combustion can push exhaust gas past the gasket into the cooling system yet little or no coolant would come back the other direction. You did see some white smoke which could be a trace of coolant, but only after the car has sat for awhile. Transient overheating, gas bubbles in cooling system, coolant being pushed out the overflow bottle are classic signs of this.

If you had work done recently with the shortblock, it is possible things were not done right with the gaskets at that time. Typically, they should not fail for a very long time after replacement.

Repairs for this type of issue would usually require resurfacing the head and installing new gaskets.

We don't get the diesel models here in the U.S. but gurgling behind the dash, low or no heat sounds like air pockets trapped in the cooling system. Subaru horizontally-opposed motors are more prone to this than some others.

Now as to where the bubbles came from... If you have changed the coolant recently, was the cooling system bled to get all the air out? If not, you might suspect head gasket trouble causing exhaust gas to get into the cooling system past the gasket(s).

There is a test kit available to detect combustion gases in the cooling system. It uses a chemical solution that changes color when these gases are present.

They can claim whatever they like but that won't make it so. If an attorney were to get involved I bet their position would change. I think the pictures posted by covertrussian provide ample evidence the recall fix is insufficient to address the problem.

If no brake fluid seepage is observed, the affected area will be rustproofed with anti-corrosion wax. If brake fluid seepage is observed, the brake lines will be replaced followed by rustproofing with anti-corrosion wax. These services will be performed free of charge.

No seepage was observed when the recall service was done. Even though covertrussian's brake lines are about to rust through any minute now...

According to the TSB, the brakes would need to already be failing, squirting fluid, before they would replace any brake lines. Do I agree with this? Of course not!

I think Subaru will try to weasel their way out of this, in fact they already have. The wording of the TSB indicates the fault is not in the brake lines, but "a gap in the fuel tank protector, resulting in excessive corrosion of the brake lines."

Brake line corrosion is the owner's problem. The fuel tank protector gap is Subaru's problem, which indirectly leads to "excessive" corrosion. Subaru can simply claim the brake line corrosion for cars post-recall is due to age and driving environment, not a defect they are responsible for.

I should get a carfax... I bought it in NOVA but it's spent some time in Chicago, wish I knew before I got up there to see it. Owner claimed "Nor rust", first thing I saw was a super rusted coolant crossover pipe (above header) .

I'm in NOVA and the dealer tried to weasel out of doing the TSB on my car because VA is not one of the recognized states in the TSB. I pointed out I bought the car in Pennsylvania and I regularly drive it in Maryland, which are recognized states. The dealer then agreed to do the work. Your pictures make me want to go inspect the brake lines to see what shape they are in.

In the link you provided is that for both control arms or just one? Also how are the bushings that are pre-installed on these? Thanks!

Left and right are two different part numbers.

Read posts starting around #293 going through 320 or so.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/killer-deal-lower-control-arms-245333.html?p=5648648

Wow, I just tried some back of the envelope estimates for DIY'ing everything they said your car needed. Not too bad. Then look at the dealership estimate & SMH. Yes, they need to make a profit, but that is pretty whacked.

Power steering pump leaking 791.00 p+l

(new o-ring = $2.00)

Left front ball joint is worn 228.00 p+l

(new ball joint = $30.00)

Power steering rack leaking 1301.00 p+l

(new steering rack = $300.00)

Valve cover gaskets leaking 487.00 p+l

(new valve cover gasket set = $28.00)

Oil pan rotted and corroded 573.00 p+l

(new oil pan = $65.00)

Oil cooler hose leaking 256.00 p+l

(new oil cooler hose = $10.00)

Alignment 129.00 (required with rack replacement)

Brake lines leaking 2999.00 p+l

(nicopp brake line 25' = $35.00)

Both front axle boots leaking 651.00 p+l

(new CV boot kit * 2 = $40.00)

(new tools, fluid, supplies = $100.00)

Dealership cost = $7,416.00

DIY cost = $739.00

DIY Savings = $6,677.00