superj300

Agreed.....looks good.

Yeah, hitting "Disc Repeat" sounds much harder than rigging up an entire FM modulator and turning it on every time your car starts. Also, losing a slot inside a CD player hidden from view is much worse than an eyesore FM modulator next to your seat. Again, if your modulator is so ultra-clear, why even have the aux-in board? Furthermore, you drive more than 80 minutes straight that often? Even so, let's say you did have a 90 minute commute each way and it was a true hassle to hit "disc repeat" daily when you restarted your car...over the course of 90 minutes, you are going to enter new areas with different radio stations, and the 88.1 that was clear and crisp at your house is likely to have interference 90 minutes away...adjusting an FM modulator is most definitely not easier than hitting "disc repeat." PLUS, if you manage to listen to 400 straight minutes of CD music and have to switch discs mid-ride, you aren't going to miss out on 80 additional minutes taken up by a blank CD that can provide thousands of minutes via an iPod or unlimited minutes via satellite radio. If you plan on using the aux-in enough to want to install it, you aren't going to miss one CD slot. My point is that all of this stuff has been thought out and nobody of the hundreds of successful installs has had the issues you are having. You are making your music in your Subaru into a Rube Goldberg machine of 500 steps to get a clear signal when the rest of us use 2 steps just fine - start car, hit disc repeat. I drive 1500 miles to Florida and 1500 miles back two to three times a year and have never had an issue taking up a CD slot

If your FM modulator worked that good in the first place, why would you even need the aux-in board? Just plug your auxiliary source into the FM modulator - you are going to hear the same static if its accepting an aux-in or not because of FM interference. Why do you people have such a problem with a silent CD anyway? Just put it in and forget about it, it's really not even an issue. What could possibly be so bad about it? It's not like the entire radio freezes up or interrupts the music when the CD goes to a new track or loops...mine never did once. The Aux-in is ALWAYS ON, so if the stereo is ON and outputting a signal, it doesn't matter if the CD is even spinning, nevermind repeating. Your audio comes from the aux-in, not the CD, and is therefore constant.

"Ehh," well, our 'opinions' may differ, but soldering is without a doubt the better way.

Soldering is one of the simplest things in the world on 2 wires and it would make that connection much stronger and infinitely safer. It may stay like that, but I know I wouldn't trust a twist with the bouncing of driving. Fray the ends, interlock the copper strands, and twist it together in line with the wires horizonally, not in a knot. Then solder a tiny bit before taping.

I totally get it, dude. Once again, he isn't Amazon.com. The fact that you would give him HALF the rating because he accidentally missed 1 piece of paper (which I doubt he even did, YOU probably missed it or threw it out) when it's available on the site and you even admit it was beneficial to not use paper instructions shows what a nerd you are. But, while we're at it, I guess I'll rate him only 2.5 out of 5 because he used 6 inches of tape instead of 4.5 on the package. Tsk tsk, Jazzy. I'll ignore the fact that he engineered a wonderful product and sells it at a minimal profit margin...I'll just follow your lead and complain about something that doesn't even matter.

What a nerd. Try just asking for the instructions, dude. He isn't Amazon.com.

If you think soldering 500 wires on every nook and cranny of your stereo and hot gluing shit in place is a viable alternative to Jazzy's simple and 100% reversible board simply to avoid a (*gasp*) silent CD, you're a true dumbass. Additionally, the sound levels for Jazzy's board are perfectly fine IF you install the board properly....I highly doubt that anyone who is too stupid to push the ribbon cord fully back into the stereo when installing Jazzy's board has the knowledge, skill, or time to install this ridiculous "alternative" that you're suggesting. -10 to this suggestion. It's like suggesting taking a helicopter to someone who hates sitting in traffic....IE, will it work? Most likely. Is it simple or an obvious alternative? Far from it.

EVERYBODY READ THIS: WHEN YOU PUSH THE WIDE WHITE BAND BACK INTO THE RADIO, ******* PUSH IT HARD AND FIRMLY UNTIL IT CLICKS OR IS OTHERWISE CLEARLY AND DEFINITELY STRAIGHT IN AND FACING THE RIGHT WAY. 90% of the recent posts I've read list symptoms that indicate that this is the problem. Yes it sucks removing the radio again and opening it up again, but if you did it right the first time, you wouldn't have to do it this time. PS: I hope you newbs aren't manually searching this thread instead of using the THREAD SEARCH FEATURE above the first post on each page (above the "report" button) to search for shit.....not that hard.

The CD position shouldn't matter.....in fact, any CD you play in any slot will allow the sound through exactly the same I believe. Is your volume on the XM unit very low at the same time your volume on your Subaru stereo is very high (if it's adjustable - sometimes there is a volume control or output control)? I see the XM Commander has RCA jacks instead of a headphone jack...what's your setup with the GLI? Commander control unit directly to GLI then to aux-in? Don't know if this will change anything but maybe something is backwards or something...such as GLI input plugged in as outputs or something.

For those of you having problems with Sirius (both with the aux-in and just generally), you can probably blame the FCC. I don't know if it's because they can't get off Howard Stern's ass or what, but I heard from an extremely reliable inside source that Sirius' output from their satellite(s) and repeaters was deemed to be too strong, so the FCC cut them to less than half normal output around 8-12 months ago (I forget exactly when). Nobody had service anywhere, so Sirius fought (read: bribed, probably) the government to allow some signal strength to be restored, but not much was, so Sirius decided that audio quality had to be cut in favor of stronger signal. I have a hardwired Sirius unit (non-portable or removable) in my Jeep and the quality still isn't so great, nowhere near CD or even radio, really....Bass is pitiful, too. My home unit has the same story, as well as my girlfriend's. But in case you haven't noticed, the "poor signal quality" warning is rarer than ever (if you have your antenna installed properly - IE, near center of roof). I've never lost my signal in my Jeep ever since the change (outside of tunnels and parking garages). PS: I'm not saying that Sirius units can't have an issue with the aux-in board. Hell, my S50 didn't always sound as loud with it.....but I just wanted to let you guys know that if it seems quality diminished, don't blame the aux-in board solely...this could be why.

My cousin is a Subaru mechanic and he installed my brother's radio in his Legacy, and I just swapped it out and only the front 4 screws were in, neither of the rear ones, and everything was fine, nothing moves once the dash is back in place, same as on my Legacy, as long as you have half to 3/4 of the screws in place...at least 3 or 4 to be safe =) PS Any screw you find laying around that fits might work - just make sure the head doesn't stick up. PC case screws are a similar size in some cases. Pull a few from an old desktop or from the garbage =)

Anywhere there is 12v power in the car works to splice into. Just match colors, or be sure of what the wires are before splicing. Of course, the back of the cigarette lighter is most often easiest to access and closest to the stereo. In some cases, however, sometimes another route is easier or better. Take my Pioneer head unit in my Jeep....I bought the Sirius unit for Sirius stereo in the headunit and decided to splice the power for the Sirius unit into the power for the stereo. When soldering my harness onto my new headunit wires, I just soldered the 2 power wires for the Sirius unit in the middle of the stereo unit's harness wires. This was not only easier, but better in general since I only wanted the Sirius powered when the stereo is powered and not running anytime the car is on.

Identical.....depending on your model type, that is.

Someone with a working setup should put a CD in upside-down intentionally to test this theory. It sounds quite possible to me.

Strange. I have my Sirius and Zune both plugged in nearly always and never hear a peep from them on the speakers or from the units, even while charging the zune. My brother using his iPod on it, however, makes noise while charging, but not while audio only is being used.

I'm not exactly sure why you wasted time/money/space installing an audio selector switch (and an ugly one at that). Why not just split the wire under the console with a basic Y-splitter for 99 cents? As long as you play one unit at a time, you'll only hear one unit at a time. Of course, if you play an MP3 player and satellite radio simultaneously, you're going to hear both overlapping, but I'd think the average person could just...umm...NOT play 2 things at once? I ran a 3 foot wire from behind my stereo to under my center console and installed the GLI in there - seemed to be more space to work with and avoids possible overheating issues by blocking the heatsink and keeping the GLI in an already tight and poorly ventilated area. Also gives more slack to run the wire(s) into your storage bin (drill a small hole) or run the wire through the e-brake rubber or under the plastic next to either seat.

ROFL, you're joking, right? Cry about it, dude. rvlmtfnk, I'm no expert, so Jazzy can confirm or deny my suspicion here, but it sounds to me like the ribbon cable isn't pushed fully into the accessory board or the stereo board. Perhaps it is halfway in or loose to the point where it jiggles in and out when you are driving. It should be a firm, snug fit, pushed in as far as it can go. It would be super annoying to have to pull the entire thing out to check this, so wait to see what Jazzy says...this is where testing before reinstalling comes in handy =P

I knew it was a joke too...can you detect the sarcasm in my post, 16 brain cell-boy? Let's keep the posts related to the aux-in from here on out.

I think that in this guy's case, "on the edge" is equivalent to "with 16 brain cells." What the hell else would make you think a radio mod could affect your airbag light? Then again, with this guy's thought process, I wouldn't be surprised if the steering wheel was removed to install the mod.

Well, it does for the most part....on one new CD it sounded a bit "electrified" or something, but I think it was a bad copy because the rest of the CDs don't sound like that....I just got curious if it was the board or CD cause both were new and the CD was actually retail, but evidently just a shitty press or something.

Well, I tooled with the tone functions a bit, and the "Middle" function turned up to +2 or +3 seems to do the trick. The Sirius sounds about perfect with it turned up, and the Zune seems to be much louder, and close to CD quality. Should I expect the board to diminish my normal CD playing quality or loudness in any way, or should it sound the same as before the board was installed?

Hey all. I ordered my board a few weeks ago but only got to install it today. I did it with my cousin - a Subaru master mechanic and the reason I and my entire family own Subarus, so I had the heavy-duty backup in case. I have a 97 Legacy LsI, but I have a P-133 6-disc changer from a 2005 Outback Sport. I wanted the board for my Sirius S-50 dock and my Microsoft Zune. I ordered the package with the wires and everything included. The install went smoothly, not a single hitch. I installed my stereo and amp myself, so I knew how to disassemble and remove everything, so that went fine. The instructions were clear for the disassembly of the stereo, very unclear IMO for the board installation. I had to go with logic and just install it where it fit. For the P-133, I had to drill a dime-sized hole in the heatsink near the power harness to pass the wire because the Atlona wire that came with the kit has a massive head and there was no open hole PERIOD, nevermind a hole big enough to pass it through. I didn't take any pics, but I'll open up my console and snap some pix tomorrow. I have the GLI under my storage tray (between shifter and radio), a short rca-3.5mm wire I ordered under there, a Radio Shack female3.5 - 2 male3.5, and two 3 foot female3.5mm to male 3.5 mm attached to the splitter. One goes behind my molding to my Sirius that is mounted near my glove compartment, the other went through a hole I drilled into my storage compartment where I leave the male end for my Zune. The Sirius is CRYSTAL CLEAR, but the bass isn't so great. The Zune pumped at full volume + the stereo at full volume yields only mediocre sound, not very loud. Any suggestions? In a related install performed simultaneously with the board, I also purchased a cigarette lighter splitter with DUAL HEADS, very important if you're trying to hide it under molding as I was for flexibility. Click Here for example. I plugged my zune charger into one end and put that into the storage compartment, and I plugged my Sirius power into the other end and passed that through the molding to the dock. My cousin then disassembled the lighter-end and soldered the wires onto my lighter wires under the stereo. Everything is now wired for sound and powered with zero visible wires. A+ install, success...I'll let you know how the board performs in the coming weeks.