GTTuner

^^^^ Shit stirrin bastard.

As I was reading your delima and thinking of what you could be missing here and the sprocket was the first thing I thought of. I read on and you mentioned it. I think you are on the right track. Here is my initial thought; Are the sprocket part numbers the same for both banks? That would be the only way I can think of to not spend the money and test if that is the problem. My cam sprockets are buried in the trunk of my car so I cant check them, otherwise I would go out there right now.

^^^^^ My wastegate stuck during a dig with a turbocharged Acura RSX, saw about 25psi and hit fuel cut about 15 times. That is what broke my ringlands.

 

:facepalm:

There are two places you apply coatings on pistons: skirts and crown. Stock pistons have skirt coatings, and you want that on your forged pistons as well. Swain tech skirt coating is rumored to be very good and robust, better than "stock" coatings e.g. by CP.

 

Crown coating should be used only in race applications. It keeps piston cooler, maybe "too cool" under regular low load driving. Even if it's not detrimental, it's really not needed.

 

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I would never use a piston in a DD without the skirt coating, it works wonders. My 83,000 mile pistons hane no wear on the skirts at all. I was just wondering about that heat coat for the top, I agree it is probably overkill for a 300whp DD.

 

What I did notice was the underside of my pistons have a brown "burn" spot right in the center, like oil was cooked a bit slinging off the small end of the rod. Thats why I was considering the top coating.

I see there's clever ports for removing the wrist pins. How do you make sure the small end of the connecting rod aligns with the wrist pin hole in the piston when you reassemble?

 

Remove the oil pan, pick-up tube and baffle plate and hold it up thru the crankcase.

True but I have seen factory cast pistons crack the ringlands with very little detonation where forged pistons can take smaller dets without any failure.

 

 

No doubt......BUT, You can even break a 2618 piston if there is enough detonation.

 

What about the Swain heat coatings, has anyone here tried that service?

^^^^^^^ I'm just nicken picken I guess. Although he does write silicone more than once. My spelling suks too.

This is all excellent information. I am currently in a rebuild of my 96xxx mile '05 OBXT after a burnt exhaust valve on cyl 2. After MUCH consideration I decide against also redoing the block with forged pistons. It is a gamble especially with my plans for this "daily driver", but if I loose a cylinder again, I will just have to yank the engine out and fix it. Fortunately these subarus are very simple to work on.

 

With respect to being at stoich under boost, with the factory tune my car did remain closed loop/14.7AFR until around 3-4psi. The "stage 1" tune I am running now, based off a tune posted on romraider's forum, turns off the factory counters for the CL/OL fueling switch and now runs OL much sooner. It's actually off the scale rich on my AEM WBO2 (<11:1) which IMHO is better than high 14's under boost

 

The pistons have major carbon build up even with running two tanks of BG44K and seafoam through it before the tear down.

 

You better pull those pistons and check them. Were you burning any oil?

The author repeatedly refers to "silicone" in the pistons. That instantly makes me doubt his credibility. (silicon is the proper term)

 

Note he only refers to "all motor" in recomending cast pistons. 4032 is much stronger than cast, period. Detonation will kill any piston regardless of it's composition. I still feel the 4032 is a great choice for a DD. You can run OE clearance and get the long service life without beating the crap out of the cylinder walls.

You have to remove the auto tensioner in the process. Most people will not have the proper tool to compress it, therefore just replace it and be done.

 

Put it in a vise, SLOWLY compress it and insert the appropriate size pin or drill bit to hold it closed.

The oven method works great, just wear gloves so the hot sealer doesn't burn you. I am about to pull mine apart for the second time to add some LED's.

I don't know - I have done several spark plug changes on LGT's and the one I did today (on an Outback XT), was a (%*^$#($ and a half. There is absolutely no way that the rear coil packs were going to come out . I ended up taking off the engine mount bolts and the pitch stopper, jacking up the engine an inch or 2 and did the swap in about 10 minutes

 

They def do suk to do. Try moving the insulation like I mentioned earlier, makes for a bit more room.

I'd like to add one step to this that makes the rear plugs easier.

 

There is some sound deadener insulation on both front frame rails. Take the forward most clip out and let the insulation hang down. It gives you another 3/16-1/4" of room between the frame rail and cylinder head to get your ratchet in there. When your done, just reinstall the clips (they are reusable). Every bit of room helps!

 

OP, maybe you can update you walk thru? Doing this saves me about 20 minutes total on the job.

Black LGT sedan on RI RT2( South County trail) Friday at 5:45pm.

 

Yow saw me behind you because I heard the EAT downshift and saw you blast off!

I downloaded romraider and ecuflash, in romraider it keeps on telling me i need to download the definitions. and i did. but it keeps telling me i still need to do so. I dont understand what is going on

 

 

 

Same problem here on my Vista lap top. Used my Ol' XP laptop and works perfect!

Neat idea did you try only one at first ? or both ? I only ask b/c I have a buddy with the same issue after a custom Flow Master exhaust and catless DP and this could help

 

Both sides. It works, try it, you can always pull it off if you don't like it.

I know, I'll crack a window open and save the CO poisoning for later.

 

It was raining the other day and the defroster worked perfect.

Fumes constantly. Whenever any window is open and I peg the boost gauge. Even when the car was new I'd get cat stench at times inside. Anyone else suffer from this? I read it all the time in here. This worked so good for me so I had to share it. The only time I smell my exhaust now is when I get out. Fumes are gone. Almost 100%.

Go in the trunk and find these vents/exhausters. One on both sides behind the trunk liner. To my knowledge, their main purpose is to vent the cabin when the doors shut. Seal the bastards off. I used a sheet of asphalt/dynamat type of material and just layed it over the opening. No more passengers bitching about headaches too!

Will street tuner software work on a Protune map? I just want to install ST and tweak a base Protuner map.

 

Thanks

Cheap/insanely bright DIY LED interior lights.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111906

Easy fix;

Why don't we use just one diode on the wire coming from the dome lamp? I'm going out to do this mod as I speak, should work with one.

 

 

Edit: because both map lights come on when one is switched on:)

 

But, I only used one diode on the drivers lamp so when I push the passenger lamp the rear lamp lights up. So often someone in the back needs light and I hate fumbling behind me with the dome switch, so now I just click the passenger lamp and the front and rear passengers get light.

 

I used 13 led block units, BRIGHT!

I saw a blue pzerv or w.e. heading towards hyannis the other day. Car had some decal on the back windshield.

 

 

I believe it is PZEV. Partial zero emission vehicle.

Add me to this list. Stg. 1 sedan, stock othewise. Symptoms sound exactly the same as everyone else. I'm on stock suspension though. My thread because my search skills suck. Only seems to happen with passengers/weight.

 

Is there any damage/harm being done from this issue, or is this just an annoying noise problem? I'll just remove the back seats and be done with it.

 

Same here, weight in the backseat amplifies the problem, as does cold weather when my car runs like a "raped ape". I noticed my jounce bumpers look like they are getting crushed from the rear end squat. I rarely ever have passengers in the back.

Black LGT sedan at Wood River Inn, Richmond RI, Sat, 02/14/09

 

 

White LGT sedan in Coventry RI , Sun 01/15/09