mickeyd2005

Stock VF40 can hit 3.0 g load. I get 3.0 g load at 3000 rpm and 17 psi boost.

 

Airboy's spreadsheet is the best. No tuner should be without it.

 

http://www.enginuity.org/viewtopic.php?t=957

 

I added an acceleration calculator to it:

 

http://www.enginuity.org/viewtopic.php?t=957&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75

 

BTW, IMHO, the Cobb timing is too aggressive between 2500 and 4000 rpm (worst is at 2800 rpm) if you go over 2.5 g load.

 

Why are you only hitting 2.54 g load? 17 psi should result in a higher load than that.

BlackGT can you post a datalog? Have you plotted the timing using Airboy's spreadsheet?

 

One thing that I noticed is that the intake compensation B table screws up my timing between 3000 and 3500 rpm. The compensation turns off when load hits 3.0 g which ocurs at 2800-3000 rpm if I start my WOT run at a low enough rpm. If the car does not hit 3.0 g, then the compensation turns off at 3500 rpm.

 

When I originally tuned the car, I based it off datalogs from 2000 rpm to redline. So, my timing between 3000 and 3500 rpm did not include the extra 3.16 degrees of advance.

 

If I shifted at about 3000 rpm and then hit WOT, well, I don't hit 3.0 g of load and so suddenly, I have an extra 3.16 degrees of timing! Occassionally, I would get a knock at about 3200 rpm and the ecu would pull 2 degrees of timing.

 

I finally zeroed out the table, but haven't figured out how to properly add the timing back in without screwing up my timing table in the low load regioni.

My gap mysteriously disappeared after I installed the jazzymod. When I installed my short shifter, it came back a little bit. Seems to be highly dependent upon the installer.

Does this work?

 

http://www.pimpmyauto.com/Legacys/media/dontlaughatmyass.rar

I forgot to add... my Infinity 6.5 inch speakers came with speaker spacers. They look like the cheap flimsy generic ones that Crutchfield provides for free.

If you use spacers, you may need these too:

 

http://img459.imageshack.us/img459/2540/img0604xi8.jpg

 

Tom at Kartboy made some speaker spacers.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1223664

 

They're $18 shipped.

Wow. That's very impressive.

 

Is that knock between 3100 and 3200 rpm? I didn't see KC logged, but total timing is pulled by 3 degrees in both logs.

 

Maybe subtract one or two degrees of base timing between 2900 and 3200 rpm?

casopolis, can you post a datalog in the datalog results thread? I would love to see what this turbo can do.

Brack, I think you misread the original response from Daniel Stern.

 

If you use the new HIR series bulbs to replace the 9xxx series bulbs, you have to trim the plastic. There's some kind of strange law that makes every bulb type not interchangeable.

 

For the LGT high beams, the 9005 bulbs can be replaced by the 9011 bulbs but there is a small amount of trim required.

 

For the LGT low beams, the H7 bulbs are replaced by different H7 bulbs so no trimming is required.

Always in for pics.

Ok, I'll see if I can remove the side-panel but as it stands I can't even see enough of anything to be able to actually do anything. The radio only comes out like two inches before the wires tighten.

 

EDIT: I cannot get that side-panel off. The diagram in that PDF seems different than what I'm seeing in my Outback. For right now, I put everything back the way it was. I'm either going to need some help with this or I'm going to have to return the modification (if that's even possible).

 

Anyone in the Seattle area willing to help a guy out?

 

I understand what you're going through because this happened to me. The radio only would come out 2 inches.

 

I would be surprised if the OB is different than the LGT, but it might.

 

With the armrest moved aft to expose the aft end of the side panel, stop and think about how the side panel is attached. It took me a while because I didn't want to break anything.

 

Did you remove the bottom panel below the glove box? There are 3 really hard to remove poppits.

 

In a few days or so, I'll be swapping my radio out again, so I might take some pictures. A lot of people don't have this problem because the dealer has already installed their subwoofer and cut the tape bundling the wires.

The wires aren't short. They're taped together from the factory.

 

Take a look at the subwoofer installation guide. It instructs you to remove the passenger side panel to gain access to the back. It makes it much easier to cut the tape off the wire bundles.

 

http://www.thel7.com/Accessory%20Install%20Doc%27s/legacy_subwoofer.pdf

This doesn't work?

 

http://www.pimpmyauto.com/Legacys/media/dontlaughatmyass.rar

I just hope everyone realizes that this is not normal. I didn't drive the car for a month and it started up when I got back. Granted this was in the summer time.

 

The first thing I would do is to clean the connectors. When reattaching the terminals, use a dielectric grease to help minimize corrosion.

 

If that doesn't fix it, then take the car to a car parts store and get a load test done on the battery. This is usually free.

 

If the battery is fine, take it to back to the dealer and ask them to find the low current drain. I can't believe that they would admit that it was a ground problem and then say that they can't find it. They should have at least lied and said that "it's normal."

The LGT wagons are kind of odd in that they come stock with a saggy rear end. I adjusted my coilovers so that I have positive rake (back end is a tiny bit higher than front). That may be why I never get flashed.

Do you drive over a lot of crests? You may want to check headlight alignment. My lights form a fairly sharp line and it points down so the cabin of the car in front of me is not illuminated.

The LGT projectors are pretty well focused. The light doesn't shine above other cars' trunks.

^^^ I agree.

 

After driving around with these for a few weeks, I really appreciate how bright they are. Fogs are drowned out by the low beams.

 

I've noticed that the only cars that seem to have more light in front of them on the road surface are late model German cars with factory HID.

Thanks. It looks like you added a few additional features to it too... and more pictures.

I am a bit confused here... the HVAC schematic you are showing is from the RHD McIntosh unit, right?

 

Do you have the one for our USDM radio also? I am just looking at the possibility of making an "adapter box" that will take the signals from the McIntosh unit and get them on the correct wires for the US vehicle's circuits. If we have both schematics - and assuming that the HVAC "brain" operates the same [parameters, software and bus type] on both the JDM and USDM vehicles then there is no reason we can't do this.

 

You got PM.

It's all up to personal opinion. They're rated to have 30% more lumens but that's not earthshattering. The stock H7's are already pretty good.

They're pretty expensive at 26.40 each. I bought 9012 bulbs from him and he charged the same as ebay sellers so my guess is that they're just expensive.

Anyone get these from Daniel Stern?

 

I bought the Rallye H7 +65W for the low beams and the gold H3s for the fog lights. The low beams are really bright now. I think I wasted my money on the fog bulbs. I can barely see them because the low beams are so bright.

I'm looking through the wiring diagrams. They look like LHD and RHD are different. It looks doable.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r69/mickeyd2005/untitled5.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r69/mickeyd2005/untitled4.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r69/mickeyd2005/untitled3.jpg

I actually made the mistake of getting one of these for the Odyssey.

 

http://videos.hspn.com/?videoid=70&catid=14

 

They do work and they are brighter than stock. The problem is that the color temperature is way too high for the spouse. They are also very expensive.